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INTRODUCTION, 



^lUR TRIP across the Continent was the 
^J culmination of the liopes of a number 
~ of years, and the devouring of every- 
thing obtainable which related to any part 
of it. Several of our friends had been over 
the route and their report only intensified 
our desires ; and we now feel that they like 
ourselves did not tell half the truth. We 
had some misgivings as to our ability to 
bear the exhaustion of so long a journej', as 
we had only a few weeks before arisen from 
a dangerous and protracted illness. So not 
attaching ourselves to any party we resolved 
to go as far as our strength would bear, and 
return if we found it to fail ; but we grew 
stronger and fecept the temporary indispo- 
sition of Mrs.' B. we came through safely. 

The material composing these jiages ap- 
peared iu the Neiv Holland Clarion from 
January 17th to May 16th, inclusive, by re- 
quest of the editoT, stimulated by the in- 
quiries of many friends, and besides our 
story was too long to be transmitted verbally 
or by personal letter. Some of the readers 
suggested the desirability of having the 
narrative placed in a more convenient and 
permanent shape by its publication in 
pamphlet form. That it has been so kindly 
received by the readers of the paper is very 
flattering and we hope has added to the 
subscription list, for our elibi-ts were gratu- 
itous. 

The present is a reprint from the Clarion. 
The typographical errors (the most serious 
of which are elsewhere pointed out) must 
be charged to the devil's (CZa> iort's devil) 
account; the others we claim as our own 
and these latter ones are not few. The devil 
and we are good friends and will i)ool the 
account. 

We have no apology to make for any of 
the material offered unless to say that we 
feel ourselves incapable of making some 
parts of it true to nature, and did we have 
the powers of description and the control of 



language to jiortray what we have seen, 
some persons not knowing us would be dis- 
Ijosed to question our truthfulness. Differ- 
ent eyes see the same things very dilferentlj' 
and to illustrate we will here mention w'hat 
we were told at the dinner-station between 
Wawona and Medara on our return from 
the Yosemite Valley. At this place it is the 
custom of tourists on their return to register 
their names if they choose, and the attend- 
ants are apt to ask the travellers' impres- 
sions — whether the valley, big trees, etc., 
reached their expectations. We were en- 
thusiastic, notwithstanding the intense heat 
(118°) rough road and clouds of dust which 
settled upon us with remarkable affection. 
The story had never been half told us; yet 
these people said that earlier in the season 
a gentleman and lady on their return were 
so disgusted that he wrote in the register — 
"Fool and Wife." They must have been 
hard to please ; a dynamite explosion under 
them doubtless would not surprise them 
because there might be much greater ones. 
When they go again doubtless there will be 
a broad gauge railway and lightning express 
train of Pullman parlor and dining cars to 
the valley. That would be pleasanter, but 
there would not be so much fun and less 
romance if the stage is entirely dispensed 
with, though a little less of it would be ver^' 
acceptable. 

We have devoted considerable sjiace to 
the history of the Mormons, etc. ; to many 
this has refreshed their recollection of the 
incidents there narrated, and probably 
stated some points previously unknown to 
them. To the younger generation most of 
it is entirely new ; and the recent agitation 
of the Mormon question has developed an 
interest which must make our absti'act of 
history, creed, etc., of some jaresent value. 
As to the righteousness or iniquity of these 
people in the past or present we do not 
judge ; we were kindly received and treated 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT 



B-sr J-, i^. 



i=i3:iij.i5wiDEXjaFi3:i-a.. 



ON JuDe 21st, 1884, Mrs. Beecher aud 
iDyseif left Philadelphia at 2:15 p. ni., 
froiu the Broad street station, Penu- 
sylvanla Railroad, for the west. The day 
was glorious and the ride delightful, pass- 
ing the magnificent suburban residences 
aud towns until Malvern was reached, 
where on the right of the railroad the 
beautiful Chester Valley came into view ; 
and from the elevation of the road pre- 
sented a magnificent scene. The farms 
with which it is covered appeared in the 
distance like garden plats, tlie regularity 
of the rows of corn, slill young, the even 
level of the fields of wheat aud other 
grain, showing cultivation of a kind, sucli 
as, except in one other portion of Penn- 
sylvania, we did not see anywhere else in 
our long trip. 

After passing through the Gap, in the 
eastern portion of Lancaster county — 
"the granary of Pennsylvania" — we be- 
held the Pequea Valley, studded with its 
fine farm houses and l)arns, located on 
farms not excelled in the country for ap- 
pearance, management and production. 
And while naturally prejudiced in favor 
of our own state and immediate vicinity 
of our l)irth, we will submit to the judg- 
ment of others whether they find any- 
where such manliest superiority of Penn- 
sylvania farming over that of any other 
part of the country. We do not in the 
least wish to depreciate the quality of 
land and the comparative amount of pro- 
duction of otlier sections, for we have 
seen the natural richness of the soil in 
other states aud know their products to lie 
immense; but with the management of 
the Pennsylvania farmer, their yield 
would be vastly increased, and with pro- 
portionally little more lat)or than is now 
bestowed upon them. I will allude to 
some of these points as th*^y occurred to 
me in course of our trip. 

Passing on through Lancaster we ar- 
rived at Columbia, once the terminus of 
the Philadelphia and Columbia railroad. 
There, fifty years ago, the freight for 
points west of Cf)lumbia; was transmitted 
to the Pennsylvania canal, and in section 
boats carried to the foot of the Alieghenies 
and by portage over their heights, thence 



to Pittsburg ;md beyond. Well do I re- 
member these as also the Conestoga 
wagons used for the carriage of freight in 
the same direction. The cjontrast of then 
aud to day in the transportation of freight 
and passengers so wonderful in all partic- 
ulars, and wiiich impressed me, will be 
niy excuse for this allusion. 

At Columbia we get our first view of 
the Susquelianna with its high liatiks, 
broad surface and innumerable islands. 
Continuing our course along its banks for 
ten miles we arrived 6:30 p. m. at Bain- 
bridge, a small town on a bluff overlook- 
ing tlie river, and in the western part of 
Lancaster county. Sojourning here for a 
few days we left June 23, 6:30 p. m. for 
Harris'burg, passing for twenty miles 
along the Susquehanna, still, beautiful, 
majestic aud grand. Waiting at Harris- 
burg until midnight we took the express 
train leaving Philadelphia at 9 p. m. for 
Cincinnati. Not able to procure a berth 
in a sleejier we were compelled to do tlie 
best we could in making ourselves com- 
fortable in the usual day car. In the 
darkness we missed the view of the river, 
the cro.ssing of the long bridge, the spurs 
of rock around which the river bends, 
the entrance of the Juniata into it, the 
Tuscarora mountain^;, the Juniata river 
aud valley, the Lewistown Narrows aud 
all that scenery which is so enchanting, 
always new, always interesting to the 
traveller, until near Aitoona at the base 
of the Allegheny mountains. But all this 
we had often seen before, therefore, the 
retrret was not so great. Too early for 
breakfast at Aitoona we partook of a cu[) 
of C()ffee to bridge over the regular time of 
breakfast until reaching Pittsliurg. 

Taking on an extra engine we left Ai- 
toona and commenced climbing the grade 
until we reached the famous Horseshoe, 
at one time regarded as a ujarvel of 
engineering skill, but novv overtopped by 
other more extraordinary ones of like 
character. From this point to the top of 
the mountains is a vast panorama of 
mountains and valleys seen to beautiful 
advantage under the rising sun as we 
ascend the grade. The long tunnel at 
Galitzin and Cressou passed, we begin 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



our descent towards Pittsburg, having blackened by the smut from the burning 

views on each side of the road, grand in of bituminous coal. Tiie streets are geii- 

tiieir ruggedness and wildness; the val- erally at rightanglesand averageagreater 

ley f)f the Conemaugh river, the Pack width than those of our eastern cities. 

Saddle, the Cambria Iron Works, at The business houses arelargeand commo- 

Johnstown, the openings of coal mineson dious, and while of the latter the Gibson , 

the hillsides, keep the eye of the traveller and Burnet House are the principal there 

liusy. As we approach Pittsburg we pass are others whose accommodations con- 

the Edgar Thompson steel works located tribute to every comfort, and the St. 

at Brad<iocks, the place where, in our early James is one of them. 

colonial history, Gen. Braddock was kill- To the casual visitor this city presents 

ed in a l)atlle with the Indians, July 9, mucli the same appearance of other cities 

17oo. while he was on bis march to attack of the same class; the wholesale and retail 

the Ererich Fort DuQuense, now Pitts- business is about the same, its factories, 

burg. Washington, tiien a colonel, ac- numerous and varied in products, but 

eompanied this expedition. here as ir) the various cities throughout 

Arriving at Pittsburg at 7:40 a. m., the country we find depots for the partic- 
Jiiiie 24, we took a substantial l)reakfast ular productions of the adjacent country; 
and immediately thereafter took a train as for instance the tonacco grown so 
on the Pan Handle railroad, passing largely in Kentucky and the lower parts j 
through a tunnel under the city, crossed of Ohio and Indiana is sent to tliis centre ' 
the Monongahela river to S(Hith Side, and of trade as may be seen in the large ware- 
then on to Cincinnati From Pittslturg houses where it is stf)red in large hog.s- 
west the country was new to us, never heads awaiting a purchaser. "Blue-grass 
having been tbrouiih it before. The road dew"( Bourbon ) fiom the vale of Licking, 
passes among mountains and through finds a market here ; peanuts are also 
forests. We have Pennsylvania, pass found here in large quantities shipped 
across the pan handle of West Virginia. from the south. Cincinnati is also famous 
and at Steuben ville, Ohio, we cross the for its poi k-packing, its German poi)ula- 
Ohioriver on a higli bridge. Steulien ville. tion and the"German Nectar"comm()iil3' 
iis many other places along the railroad known as beer. The Esplanade on tiie 
where bituminous coal is extensively site of what probably was a market shed 
used, is more or less overshadowed by in the city's earlier days, is elevated about 
clouds of black smoke, which hangover two and a half feet above the street and 
it like a pall, the factories and adjacent in the centre is a large and very orna- 
coke ovens f^rni^^hing the most of it ; the mental fountain of bronze, surmounted 
roa<l l)eing elevated gives a good view of an<i having on its sides allegorical fig- 
t be town. From Steubenville we success- u res of th*^ same material, and life size, 
ively passed through Coshocton, county The fountain is a gift of a philanthropic, 
seat of Coshocton county, and in the public spirited and wealthy citizen. On 
midst of a bituminous coal district ; New- the upper terrace, l»ut some distance from 
ark, county seal of Licking county, on the bluff, running in a general east and 
a branch of the Muskingum; (Jolumlius, vvesteriy direction is a canal ; between 
the cjipital of Ohio, on the Sciota river, this canal and the 1)1 uft" is a large popula- 
aiid famous for its magnificent capitol tion of Germans and to visit them you 
liuilding, Ohio penitentiary and other go "across the Rhine," for the canal is 
important l)uildii)gs and institutions, fac- commonly so called at this place. Then 
tories, etc, as well as being a railroad to "cross the Rhine"is what almost every 
centre; Xeuia, in Green county, on the visitor to this city expects to do. Here 
Little Miami river, all being places of we see German life as it probably is in 
.-ome size and note. the "Vaterland, "though there is nothing 

Following the Little Miami river to distinctive in the architecture. So acro.ss 

iieur its mouth, then westward along the the Rhine we go and see beer saloons and 

Ohio river we arrive at CiiuMunali at 7:30 music halls with lieer attachments in 

p. m., June 24. Having taken quarters great numbers and almost side by side, 

in the St. James hotel on Fourth street, where, when the day's work is over, and 

and partaken of supj)er, we sallied out to on Sunday, the German father and 

see a little of t he place prior to early re- mother saunter in, taking their children, 

tiring. This city, more recently famous and the l>eaux an(i belles are to be seen 

for its riots of last spring and the Ohio sitting at tables iti perfect harmony and 

flood in February, is built upon two ter- proj)riety enjoying the fluid which the 

races from the edgeof tlie riverand back- mythic King Gambrinus taught them 

ed by iiigh blufTs. the tops of which, are was good, and tlie wines which we hope 

reached i)y inclined railways, and l>ack of had tiie genuine flavor obtained on the 

these the city extends for some distance. banks of the Rhine in their much loved 

It has many fine buildings, more or less fatherland. We saw these places, but not 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



beiug aecustoujed to the customs of the 
country we did uot enter, tliough it is 
said that "when you are in Rome you 
siiould do as the Roniaus do." Every 
visitor who has uot visited tlie bluffs 
misses a very tine view. These bluffs 
about 200 feet high, are variously named 
in their different parts as Mt. Auburn, 
Mt. Adams, Mt. Washington, etc. They 
are reached by inclined railways and on 
the tops at various points are large build- 
ings, characteristically named the High- 
land House and the Lookout House, gen- 
erously glazed, filled with taLIes and 
chairs, as also surrounded by large plat- 
forms likewise provided with tables and 
chairs, and with accomiiiodations for sev- 
eral thousand persons each. Here beer 
is dispensed and music enlivens those 
who of an evening ascend these heights 
and in the light of the electric lamps or 
moon, or both, tujoy an hour or two, and 
get a good breath of cool fresh air after a 
day's swelter in the hot city below. Fire- 
works, particularly on the Fourth of 
July, are set off on these heights and the 
view from the city is grand. From these 
heights in the daytime a grand view for 
many miles is open to the gazer. At his 
feet is the busy city which is much be- 
low him; it is however sometimes covered 
by a dense cloud of smoke so that only 
the churchspires and the roofs of very 
high buildings are seen sticking through. 
To the east and west he sees the winding 
of the Ohio river ; to the south is Coving- 
ton on the Kentucky side and the mouth 
of the Licking river. Back of these 
points of view are fine residences, and 
horse-car lines continue from tlie inclin- 
ed railways. We did not visit the parks, 
theatres, etc., as cbangeof j)lan prevented 
our return to the city. We saw no traces 
of the great flood and were surprised to 
see the great Ohio at this time, to be a 
most insigiiificaut stream at this point, as 
compared witii the Delaware at Pljiladel- 
phia ; indeed it seems as if one could 
almost tliiow a stone across it, but a sixty 
foot rise makes it an almost irresistible 
flood. The banks gently descend to the 
water's edge, are paved with cobblestones 
and the flat bottomed steamboats just 
throw olf a gang plank, generally rigged 
to a crane near the bow of the boat and 
readily swing to one side or the other to 
load and unload. The smoke stacks, 
generally^double, are very tall and joint- 
ed in the middle so as to permit their pass- 
ing under the bridges crossing the Ohio. 
These boats go up the river to Pittsburg 
and down the Ohio and Mississippi to 
New Orleans, and by this means Cincin- 
nati carries on an extensive commerce 
with a vast region of country. As a rail- 
way centre it is also extensively known. 



Ciucinuati is connected with Covington, 
Kentucky, by a magnificent suspension 
bridge of the same general pattern as that 
connecting New York and Brooklyn, but 
it is a dwarf compared to the latter. Over 
this bridge pass horse car tracks contin- 
uous from those in Cincinnati and con- 
tinued for a long distance into Covington, 
so taking a car we crossed the bridge to 
reach the Kentucky (-entral railroad 
depot to take the train for Cynthiana. 

Covington is a place of considerable 
size and importance, being nicely laid out 
and well built. If it did not lay within 
the jurisdiction of another state, doubtless 
ere this it would have been consolidated 
into the corporate limits of Cincinnati ; 
as it is, many Cincinnati business men 
reside there and most of the commerce 
between Cincinnati and central Kentucky 
passes through it. As we only saw Cov- 
ington from the horse cars we cannot say 
much of it. 

Leaving Covington we followed the 
inaiu trunk of the Licking river until we 
reached Falmouth, about thirty miles 
south, where we left it and generally fol- 
lowed the bank of the West Branch or 
Little Licking for thirty miles more, 
when we arrived at Cynthiana The 
main river is of some length, but of no 
great size at tiiis time; but when the Ohio 
leaves iis batiks the Licking is apt to do 
the same and makes a freshet at its outlet 
the more dangerous. Along the smaller 
branch it is of quite as insignificant a size 
as small eastern creeks, the result of pro- 
tracted drouth. The country along the 
railroad is rolling, in some places decid- 
edly hilly, with here and there patches of 
level ground. The land is fruitful ; much 
is under cultivation, producing generous 
crops, but there is an air of indifference 
in the general management of the farms. 
The farms, generally quite large, are not 
cultivated to their fullest extent; more 
time is devoted to the raising of horses 
and cattle ; the fame of the state for the 
former is well known, so that much land 
is kept for grazing purposes. The "blue 
grass," a natural growth, requires no re- 
plenishing, a field remaining unchanged 
for years; the generally mild climate 
allows pasturing in winter and unless the 
weather is extretne the stock scarcely re- 
quires any shelter. Rotation of crops in 
the soil is not regarded as necessary, and 
the use of straw and manure, as a fertil- 
izer, is scarcely thought of. 

Corn, wheat, tobacco and hemp are the 
major crops of the soil. Corn, after being 
husked, is often placed in rail cribs-, the 
rails laid together as for building a log 
house. The ears are generally consider- 
ably longer than that grown in Pennsyl- 
vania; probably the climate influences 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



this. Wheat eitlier remains iu the shock 
until threshed, or is stacked. I am in- 
formed that generally there is only 
enough wheat raised as is necessary for 
home consumption. Tobacco, a great 
staple, was once, if not now, regarded of 
a fine grade and probably would continue 
so if the attention was bestowed that ex- 
perience has demonstrated to be of such 
great value in its production in our state. 

The residences and farm buildings are 
generally unpretentious, even though 
their owners may be wealthy. The man- 
sion house, generally of wood, is usually 
one story high, though it niay cover con- 
siderable space. The barns are small and 
often only large enough to shelter the 
family horse, the farm implements oTten 
standing in the field from season to sea- 
son. The negroes, of which there are 
plenty, live in one story shanties or log 
huts. We have some samples iu our own 
state. 

This is the famous "blue grass" region 
of which all Kentuckians, particularly 
those who live in it, are supremely proud, 
and to own a "blue grass farm'' generally 
means that the owner is comfortly fixed. 
Now the grass is not blue, as the name 
would indicate ; it is delightfully green, 
but at certain periods there is a bluii^h or 
purplish tint along the flower and seed 
stem ; this grass does not grow high, and 
between the seeds which fall and the ex- 
tension from the roots, it requires no arti- 
ficial renewing and continues from year 
to year. It is regarded as most nutritious 
and the choicest Kentucky horses and 
cattle are pastured on its finest fields. A 
similar grass is found in this state, but 
not to any great extent, nor do I know of 
its being encouraged. 

Another production of this particular 
region (though by no means confined to 
it) -and for which it is famous is "blue 
grass dew" or Bourbon whisky. Distil- 
leries are found at short intervals all along 
the railroad and river. Business, either 
iu the manufacture or sale of this article, 
is at present in a condition (^f stagnation, 
the result of certain government require- 
ments together with the influence of the 
depression in the commercial world. 
Much of the corn raised in Kentucky is 
converted into this good but often very 
bad (in its influences) article. 

Cyuthiaua is the county seat of Harri- 
son county. It is located on the Little 
Licking about sixt^'-seven miles from 
Covington. It is an unpretentious town; 
buildings generally of brick and not im- 
posiug ; it contains a court house and that 
necessary associate a jail, banks, hotels 
and business houses, a good scliool, a 
number of distilleries, steam roller flour 
mill, etc., sVowing considerable business, 



but at the time of our visit it was rather 
dull. The streets are broad and well 
piked, indeed all the roads in Kentucky 
are piked and kept iu excellent condition 
making them a great comfort in all sea- 
sons of the year. The people here and in 
the surrounding country that we visited 
are exceedingly hospitable, carrying out 
the reputation of the people of the south 
on that score, and to be known as a friend 
of one of their friends means a profusion 
of attention. 

There is a great deal of horse-back rid- 
ing by both sexes. On certain days, par- 
ticularly court days, many men are seen 
riding into town and hitching their horses 
to a rail whi(;h more or less surrounds 
the court house; then there is a great 
barter of stock, trading, etc. Hot Nooded 
and injpulsive, yet the morals or b/eaches 
of the law must be very slight among the 
people of this county, for the jail is so 
small that the prisoner's accommodations 
do not equal that of a police station house 
in one of our eastern cities, and from this 
we must infer that they do not need a 
larger one. Battle Grove Cemetery is 
located about half a mile east of the town 
on an elevation, and commands a beauti- 
ful view of the surrounding country; it is 
handsomely laid out, carefully kept and 
elegantly decorated with fine monuments 
and other approf>riate markings of those 
buried there. During the lale war this 
spot was the scene of a brisk skirn)ish. 
This was prior to its use as a cemetery. 

In Cynthiana we sojourned some days. 
Here resides Mrs. Lydia B. Cook, an aged 
sister of my father, and the last survivor 
of a large number of brothers and sisters. 
A Pennsylvauian by birth, she with her 
husband and family, went to Kentucky 
just prior to the war, where he and three 
sons engaged in the distillery business, iu 
which they were very successful. One 
son Cyrus B. Cook, now deceased, became 
the mayor of Cynthiana. His family still 
reside the-e. One daughter married Mr. 
Jacob Walford, a distiller and grain 
dealer in (^yr.thiana ; another married 
Mr. W. H. Wilson, a famous horse raiser, 
and owner of Alxlallah Park and driving 
course; another daughter Mrs. M. M. 
Norris, a widower, is the leading milliner 
and dressmaker in the county, having 
the largest and finest store of the kind in 
Cynthiana, and whose son is editor and 
proprietor of the Cj'uthiana Times; Mr. 
William Cook also residing here is the 
only surviving son. From all these we 
received distinguished attention. Through 
their courtesy and kindness we were en- 
abled to see the surrounding country, 
which would invite the attention of the 
most critical or prejudiced. 

A short mile south of town, on the line 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



of the railroad, is tiie Ahdallah Park. 
Here is as tine a race track as I ever saw, 
fully equipped with stables tor the ac- 
coiiiiiiodatioii of some of tlie finest horses 
in the country, some owned liy Mr. Wil- 
son and some owned by otiiers wiio had 
them there for training^ or other purposes. 
Mr. Wilson and family reside on the 
place. A feature of this park is, that Mr. 
Wilson has constructed a short track en- 
tirely under cover, where, no matter 
what the weather, he can gait his "one 
and two year olds" or show the..i to any- 
one contemplating purchase. Tiie park 
is also used as a fair ground at sp|)ropriate 
seasons, when trotting is made a feature. 
Mr. Wilson is a thorough horse lover and 
and no trouble is toogreat when he has an 
appreciative companion. As a sample of 
tlie inhaliitants of his stabUs I will men- 
tion Triumvir, Huron, Long Branch, 
Chestnut Wilkes, Tom Bagby, Ink. and 
others, all famous on the turf; but (lie 
|.ri<ie of Mr. Wilson's heart, and, from 
what I beard, tlie pride of the whole 
state, is bis beauliful sbovv mare, Lady 
de Jarnett, who biis captured tin- prize for 
beauty and style at all the f;iirs where 
she has been shown, and decorated with 
bushels of riblioiis bestowed by admiring 
ladies. 

Since our return home we Intve learned 
Willi regret tbat the stables and dwellitig 
of Mr. Wilson had been burned, includ- 
ing the horses above named together 
witb others, except Lady de Jarnett and 
anothtr, wliicli were on a car, just hav- 
ing arrived from the fair at Cincinnati, 
but too late to unload that night; other- 
wi>elliey too would have been burned. 
The family of Mr. Wilson narrowly es- 
caped, saving some furniture. A stable 
han<l, proliably the cause ol the tire, was 
burned to death. I was taken liy Mr. 
Wil^on to several blue grass farms where 
he ke[)t bis brood mares and young >tock; 
his annual sales of f-tock ate large and 
well known among horsemen al over the 
country. 

Leaving Cynthiana after a most delight- 
ful visit we passed on through Paris, 
county seat of Bourbon county, Iheiic- to 
Lexington. Fayette rounty. We bad in- 
tended t(t-top and speinl a few hours here, 
but htniing the trains were not disposed 
to our ad vantage we were here but little 
longer than to take dinner. Long ago I 
liati determined to visit the home of 
Henry Clay should I ever be within rea- 
sonable proximity. For him least my first 
))residential vote, and I longed to pay my 
respecis li.v a visit to his home and bis 
grave. A-hland is about a mile and a 
quarter south of Lexington, and we are 
inlciruied is nearly as Henry Clay left it. 
His monument iu the cemetery is readily 



seen from the railroad, a colossal statue 
upon a Shalt of great height builtoverthe 
tomb, which has an iron grating, behind 
which is seen the marble sarcophagus 
containing the body of Kentucky's great- 
est man, and one of the country's greatest 
statesmen. He should have been made 
president. Lexington is tinely built and is 
the most im|iortant inland ciiy of tnestate 
and is probably the most aristocratic city 
in it. It has a'i)opulation of IB.OUO. From 
Lexington we went to Louisville, passing 
through Frankfort, the capitol, on the 
Kentucky river, and Shelbyville, county 
seat of Shelby county. 

Louisville, the most important city in 
Kentucky, is located on the Ohio river, at 
the falls 'one hundnd miles we^t from 
Lexiniiton and one hundred and twenty- 
five miles from Cincinnati. Its manu- 
factures are extensive ami valuable, and 
its shipping interests very large by way 
of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, and 
also by the railroads which center here. 
It is an extensive depot for toiiacco, hemp, 
grain, etc. Population 123,000. Crossing 
tbeOliioona bridge we hit Louisville 
for North Vernon, Jennings county, 
Indiana, there to intercept the train from 
Cincinnati !o .St. Louis, on the Ohio and 
Mississi[>pi railroad. Passing westward 
we i-rossed the East and West Forks of the 
While River, and the Wabash at Viucen- 
nes 

Vincennes was originally one of a num- 
ber of Fieocb trading posts established 
along the Wabash and other rivers, and 
at the lakes, to carry on the fur trade 
with the Indians The c<(untry was sub- 
sequently, in 17(38, ceded by France to 
Engbuui. This town is somewhat of a 
railroad center. In cros.«ing Illinois we 
pass through no place of special impor- 
tance till we arrive al East St. Louis. 
This last place is a railroad point for stor- 
age of cars aiid making up of freight 
trains for east and west. The c<)untry 
from Louisville is generally very level 
and constitutes part «if the low prairie 
country «>f Imliamt and IlliiM)is. The 
soil is'almosl black, of great depth as 
compared with tbat in Pennsylvania, re- 
quiring IM) fertilizers and of ureal pro- 
ilucliveiiess; corn, wheat, and tobacco, 
being produced in large ijuaiilities. Here 
there is a general air of indifference in the 
cultivation ; st raw slacks ami corn shocks 
being left standing in Ine field until ibey 
rot or perhaps are burned to get rid of 
them ; the barns are small and the houses 
often of only one siory, generally frame, 
are set up on blocks two or three feet 
above the grouinl (there being no cellars). 
The country is st» low tbat in the wet 
season the land is boggy. Cattle are 
raised iu large numbers. 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



At East St. Louis we liad our first view 
of the fatljer of waters, the Mississippi, 
whose channel carries the drainage of the 
largest watershed in the world, from the 
heart of tlie Rockies in the far north- 
west, to the Alleghenies in the east, and 
stretching from nortli to south across tiie 
country. We are led to contemplate 
wiiat a mighty and terrifying river it 
becomes when it overflows. From East 
St. Louis we cross the river on an iron 
bridge completed a few years ago hy Capt. 
Eads, famous for his jetties at the mouth 
of the river. This bridge is a wonder of 
engineering skill, the building of the 
piers i)eing attended with the greatest dif- 
ficulty, wbich makes it figuie promi- 
nently in engineering and medical annals. 
Passing from the bridge we enter a tun- 
nel which goes under a portion of St. 
Louis. After landing we proceeded to 
the St. Cloud Hotel, and after resting we 
tried tlie sights, but the lieat prevented 
much invesligation. Tliis was July 4th, 
and imagineour surprise to find a celebra- 
tion of the day, at least by the small boy, 
whieh reminded us of otht-r Fourths of 
July in Philadelphia, when firecrackers, 
salutes, military parades, patriotic 
speeches and lire works formed tiie 
features, but for several years past this 
anniversary is celebrated as if all the peo- 
ple had just returned from a funeral or 
that it was a day of fasting and prayer. 

St. Louis is built upon two terraces 
above the flood line, but not backed by 
hills as is Cincinnati. The stieets aie 
principally at rigiit angles N. E. S. and VV. 
except at the upper and lower portio!;s of 
the city, wliere they range witli the 
curves of the river toward the N. W. and 
and S. W respeetively. It is a railroad 
centre for roads from E. and N. E. run- 
ning to the W. and S. VV. The Imildings 
are (|uite large and well built; factories 
are numerous; its wholesale bu>iness is 
extensive and its commerce on the Mis- 
sissippi, Ohio and Missouri rivers is very 
great. Its principat hotel is the Planters, 
known for many years, and, in ante-bel- 
lum days, as a great rendezvo^is for the 
planters of the south. 'Jlie [)opulation of 
St. Louis is 350,000. The Missouri river 
empties into the Mississippi a few miles 
above St. Louis ; the waters of the Mis- 
souri being generally muddy, the waters 
of the two streams do not entirely com- 
mingle until after thej' liave passed over 
a number of niiles, the west half showing 
a muddy strip and the east half clear; 
the phenomenon is noticed at St. Louis. 

We left St. Louis after a very short stay, 
pursuing our westward trip, pa.ssing 
suburban towns which are peopled by 
wealthy and other men fioing business iu 
the city, Kirkwood being the principal 



town of this kind and within easy access. 
Very soon we caught sight of the "Big 
Muddy" as the Missouri river is other- 
known, because it is almost always so, 
regardless of fresliets or storms along its 
course. Tlie banks of the river are back- 
ed by considerable elevations made up 
largely of limestone with almost perpen- 
dicular facings, and as the railroad passes 
along the river, view of ihe country back 
ol them was cut off", except here and there 
where the road leit the banks to avoid a 
large curve. We conlinued along the 
south bank of the river, crossing the Gas- 
CDuade and Ihe Osage wliere they empty 
into the Missouri, and passing through 
no placies of particular importance until 
we reached Jefferson City, tlie capital of 
Missouri, in ueaily the central {/i>rt of the 
state, one hundred and iwenty-five miles 
from St. Louis and the most important 
town in the interior. It is well built of 
stone and briek. One circumstance I will 
mention. On our approach to Jefferson 
City, l)ut while yet some distance from it, 
a porter brought into the car, towels, 
combs, brushes, wash basins and water, 
to enable the traveller to wash and brush 
up before dinner at Jefferson City, where 
the train slopped I wenly minutes. At no 
other time was this luxury thrust upon 
us. 

Here we leave the Missouri, continuing 
in a general westerly direction and yrad- 
nally rising, crossing rolling prairie of 
great fertility; corn (a little late), wheat 
and grass in great plenty and in fine con- 
dition, the quality of the land improving 
as we go. ttettlemenls are rather thinly 
scattered here and there at considerable 
distances apart, and single houses at long 
intervals; indeed some are little more 
than shanties of probably one room ; no 
barns for housing crops or shelter for 
cattle. The whole aspect of the country 
improves as we approach Kansas City and 
becomes quite attractive. Amish and 
Dunkers are located in this section in 
large numbers and their presence is 
noticed in the care they display in selec- 
tion of land and its cultivation. 

Sedalia, the first town of importance 
after leaving Jefferson City, one hundred 
and eighty-nine miles from St. Louis, is 
somewiiat of a railroad point and of con- 
siderable business iui|)ortance. Waruer.s- 
burg, in Johnson county, and Indepen- 
dence in Jackson county are places of 
some note; the latter iu particular, being 
ten miles from Kansas City, is a railroad 
point and is famous in the history of the 
Mormon emigration westward. After 
their expulsion from Illinois they settled 
at Independence and in several adjoining 
counties, where, after they had thought 
themselves secure from molestation, tliey 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



were a^ain compelled to leave by force, 
they being obnoxious to the other settlervs; 
they tlien weut to Utah. Arriviug at 
Kansas City at the Union Depot, we se- 
cured accommodations at the St. James 
hotel. 

Kansas City is located on the south 
bank of the Missouri river. It is a place 
of great importance as a railroad and busi- 
ness centre; it is well built of stone and 
brick on a series of terraces, more or less 
steep and close together, notwithstanding 
whi<!h they have street cars, and cable 
roads are in construction. Itsstores rivel in 
size those of eastern cities ; factories are 
numerous, and its slaughlering and pack- 
ing establishments are among the largest 
in the country, while its stock yards have 
no superior for size. The union depot on 
the lower level near the river, is one 
of the busiest places in the world for its 
kind. Here people of all nations gather 
and are dispersed through the west and 
southwest, and this is continuous day and 
night. When flrst laid out tliis city was 
supposed to be within the Kansas line, 
but subsequent surveys showed that it 
was just east of it and consequently in 
Missouri ; this apparently has not mili- 
tated against its rapid progress ; its streets 
are wf-11 paved and liglited. Notlongago 
it was the centre for a very rough element 
of people ; now it is seemingly as polished 
and orderly as if established one hundred 
years ago. Some business is transacted 
ou Sunday and places of amusement are 
open, but we saw little of it, though we 
were there during a Sunday. Ii; all towns 
that are or have been on the frontier, 
there has been little regard in their early 
days to a consideration of the Sabbath, 
but certainly we saw nothing in our 
travels which could have offended any 
but bigots or fanatics. The people of Kan- 
sas City are very busy and up to the times 
in everytliing. Here we first saw evi- 
dence of the push and activity claimed 
for the western people, though it was not 
our fortune to see this everywhere even 
iu some large cities. An extensive garden 
called St. James Park, where music is 
discoursed and beer dispensed, adjoin.^ our 
hotel and is well patronized ; a room on 
that side of the house is not agreeable to 
tired travelers. The hotel is Unely fur- 
nished, convenient, comfortable aiid rea- 
sonable ; let travellers take notice. 

Leaving Kansas City we very shortly 
crossed the Kansas river on the other 
side of which and at its confluence with 
the Missouri is Wyandotte, Kansas. Fol- 
lowing the west bank of the Missouri (for 
at Kansas City it bends northward) we 
arrived at Atchison. After changing 
cars we proceeded westward sixty-seven 
miles to Ceutralia, Nemaha county, in the 



northern part of Kansas, on the central 
branch of the Union Pacific. Awaiting 
our arrival was Mr. Abraham Brower, 
an old and valued friend. Mr. Brower is 
a Pennsylv nian by liirth and for many 
years a resident of VVilliamsport, Pa. 
Advancing in years he felt the cares and 
restraints of a mercantile lile as becoming 
very irksome; he longed for a relief 
which others tlian he have expressed and 
acted upon. The green fields, the open 
air, tiie horses and cattle seemed to call 
him, and feeling that though the air was 
iis pure and the grass as green in Penn- 
sylvania as in any other place, yet he 
seemed lo think that here lie would be 
too crowded and that he could purchase in 
Kansas fionj three to six acres for the 
price of one here. So ridding himself of 
ins store he took his family and goods 
about five years ago and settled down on 
a prairie farm two miles nortli of Cen- 
tralia. He has a fine two story frame 
house, his out-buildings are in true Penn- 
sylvania style, bis farm is well fenced, 
and there is every ap|)earance of conifort, 
contentment and plenty. Our reception 
was most cordial and our entertainment 
far in advance of our expectations in a 
prairie home. The garden was profuse 
in its yield of most elegant and delicious 
berries and other vegetables, and the 
barnyard with its many spring chickens, 
all contributed their part in making us 
liearlily wel«;ome. We parted with great 
reluctance as from a very dear brother. 
May Mr. Brower and his faniily live long 
to enjoy their neu home and continue to 
be prosperous atul happy. 

In all this prairie country therearefew 
trees of any kind except along the water 
courses, and as the wind, having a fair 
sweep, rushes with tremendous velocity 
and often extremely cold, 'he settlers 
plant "wind breaks" of trees on one, two 
or three sides of the house a short distance 
from it, sometimes they surround tlie 
house. These "wind breaks"are very nec- 
essary to the comfort of persons and 
cattle. 

After spending a few days with our 
friend and family we returned again to 
Atchison, from there to Fort Leaven- 
worth, where westopped and were royally 
entertained by Capt Windt, U. S. A., and 
his charming wife. This fort, established 
in 1847 to keep the Indians in subjection 
on the then frontier, is one of the finest 
posts iu the country; the grounds are kept 
in magnificent order and cover many hun- 
dred acres, in which are numerous beau- 
tiful drives, parade grounds, rifle ranges 
and other means of military- exercise. 
These grounds serve as a grand park to 
Leavenworth City, the people of which 
resort to this place for pleasure driving. 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



The officers houses are beautiful, eoiuiiio- 
dious aud tatitefully arranged ; here tlie 
officers and tlieir tariiilit's live, otherwise 
they take acconiiuodalious in a tine hotel 
within the K'ounds. There is another 
hotel of a different nature on the grounds 
to which are sent various individuals who 
have given offense or violated the laws of 
Uncle Saiii, and he don't charge them 
anything for kee|iing them in victuals 
and clothes. Fori Leavenworth is one of 
the choice posts to be assigned to duty; 
and it is generally sought after l)y officers, 
but with all the comfort, even luxury of 
the place, tliese persons lire of it and long 
to have the monotony varied by an as- 
signment to some less happily situated 
post and have a Lirush with the Indians, 
whom some regard as the legitimate prey 
of powder and ball. The case, however, 
sometimes bec<»mes as with the man who 
went out to hunt the tiger, and returning 
rather precipitately it appeared that the. 
tiger had been found and was coming 
after him. 

Leaving Fort Leavenworth by coach 
we arrived at Leavenwoilh City. This 
city while having very wide streets and 
covering a large extent of surfact, and 
probably doing a large business, is far 
from being elegantly built, or, so far as 
we saw, a busy place. It is prol)abie that 
other places not far distant have monopol- 
ized considerable of the tiade, silua'ed as 
it is between Atchison and Kansas City. 
The country from .Atchison lo (Jentralia 
is rolling prairie ; that between Atchison 
aud Kansas City cannot be well observed 
from the cars, as the railroad passes along 
the Missouri and its banks are bluffy. 

llelurning to Kansas (Jiiy we left on 
the Kansas Pacific railroad for Denver. 
Following the course of the Kansas river, 
the first place of importance passed 
througli was Lawrence, forty miles from 
Kansas (Mly. This place is very lively in 
good times, is well built, having factories, 
schools and university, in apparent [jeace 
with all tlie world. It lias, however, been 
the scene of many acts of border ruffian- 
ism aud the raid made by Quantrell dur- 
ing the late war, during which many per- 
sons were massacred. Population 11,000. 
At sixty-seven miles from Kansas Cily 
we pass through Topeka, the capital of 
Kansas, a cily well laid out and tine 
buildings for business and residences; it 
is a railroad centre; two colleges we are 
infornied, are located here. Train stopped 
twenty njinutes for dinner. Pof)ulation 
23,000. At ninety miles we pass St. 
Mary's where tliere is u large Catholic 
seminary, which is linely located and en- 
closed ; this place was originally a Cath- 
olic mission. At one hundred and three 
miles we pass Wamego, a place apparently 



of some importance ; we could learn little 
of it. At one hundred and eighteen miles 
we pass Maniiattan, a town of 2400 iu- 
hal)itants, and having some very impos- 
ing buildings. The next station. Junc- 
tion City, is a railroad point, one hundred 
and thirty-eight miles from Kansas City. 
At one iiundred and sixty-two miles we 
arrive at Abilene, county seal of Dickin- 
son county. 

The country through which we passed 
is of great fertility; corn, wheat, oats and 
grass are raised in great quantities and 
the towns passed Ibrough seem lo l)e 
located in tine silualions aud surrounded 
by all that contributes to solid wealth and 
comfort; the farms are large and well 
man. ged, and the improvements gen- 
erally of good quality. After leaving 
Kansas City the railroad follows the 
Kansas river until we leacli Fort Kily at 
the moulh of the Re[)ublicau, liaving 
crossed the Big Blue river at iis mouth 
near Manhattan. At Fort Riley the 
Kansas ri .er, as such, ceaseS, being form- 
ed by the confluence of the Iteputilicau 
and Smoky Hill ; the latter whicn is very 
tortuous, we follow as nearly nearly as 
may l)e until we arrive at Aliileiie. A 
number of creeks which empty them- 
selves into the Kansas were also crossed ; 
as they were generally insignificant we 
did note their names. I will also here 
say,iliat frequently what are called rivers 
in the west woukl in the east scarcely be 
regarded as more then fair sized creeks, 
though the rivers thus far named are of 
considerable size but not of any great 
depth. The scenery along the Kansas 
river, besides the line farm country, is 
very curious, pariicularly from Wamego 
westward to St. (ieorge ; high above the 
cars range curious mounds with lines 
(horizontal) of projeciting rock on the 
top edges resembling In east works made 
for protection and defense by the former 
occupants of the land. These formations 
are found at other points along the line 
further west and running for miles ; they 
seem to be made up of a dingy or dirty 
limestone unlike that formed in the 
east. 

Abilene is a town of wide streets, well 
built, aud in as tine an agricultural 
country as one would wish to see. Here 
as well as in a large jiart of this county, 
is to be found a large population of Duu- 
kers, mostly from Lancaster county, 
Pennsylvania. I need not say what they 
have done for thi.'i section ; their pecu- 
liarities are too well known in the east, 
and they have lost none of them in their 
new homes. 1 feel satisfied that they will 
make Dickinson county one of the richest 
agricultural counties in the state. The 
product of this country has so often beeu 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



wiitteu up that I should hesitate to do 
more thau note that wheat produces from 
twenty-five to forty busliels per acre and 
other crops in proportion; this on land 
that, according to the iiiprovemenls, costs 
from $25 to not more tlian $.■)() per acre, 
any llie labor of cultivation reduced to a 
minimum, for no manuring is required ; 
the same field is sown with the same liind 
of seed many successive years, and does 
not seem to weaken ; no stones to be 
gathered, no rocks in the way of the plow, 
no stumps, etc., as in other new country 
in the east. But do not be misled by my 
strong statements iutotlie belief that the 
whole state is thus productive, for as we 
go westward tl>e couuiry gradually gets 
poorer and poorer until nothing could be 
raised and indeed no one appears to try, 
for a desolation and desertion stiikes tiie 
eye which is almost painful, and un- 
known in any part of Pennsylvania, not 
excepting itsrockiestand wildest counties; 
but more of this as we get to it. 

At the railroad station at Abilene is a 
very tine hotel of imposing exterior called 
the Henry House, built and owned by the 
railroad conjpauy. Here we stopped in 
the afternoon after a hot ride ; the day 
was said to be tiie hottest of the season 
and the progress slow as compared witli 
eastern travel. The next day I procured 
a pair of bronchos at a livery stable, the 
owner of wliich was satisfied with recom- 
mendations from one who had been a 
Lancaster county man and one who 
knew of me ; perhaps the own^r was also 
satisfied because I was a Pennsylvauian, 
and Penusylvanians are generally of good 
repute in Kansas because many of the 
settlers are samples of our people. We. 
however, were the only ones who feared 
that the animals might not be returned 
in good time and order for they required 
urging and persuasion occasionally with 
the whip. Bronchos generally are good 
travellers. So with the bronchos and a 
buggy (you see they have s«)me of the 
conveniences and luxuriesof civilization) 
we set sail southward over the prairie; 
this was our first drive of any consider- 
able extent; in such country where there 
is little fencing and the land not broken, 
road and field are alike comfortable to 
drive over because the [and is level. 'Tis 
best to follow the road unless j'ou know 
how to read the section stakes whicli 
mark theranges, townships, sections, etc., 
otherwise one might readily get lost. 
Thus following the road after a ride of 
twelve miles we arrived at Belle Springs, 
and it would puzzle you to find either the 
Belle or the Springs ; however, two or 
three houses and more in process of erec- 
tion, and a post office, which as it lacked 
the palatial exterior of the one we have in 



Philadelphia, we did not see, constitute 
this village; whether more existed on 
[)aper than what we saw 1 cannot tell. 
Frcipiently these towns* are all on paper, 
but the land is there all the same, even if 
it should happen to be covered witli 
water like the town of Napoleon in Mark 
Twain's "(ililded Age." It is almost a 
wonder that this place is not called Belle 
Springs City, for it is a fact that many 
towns in the west little larger than this 
are given the grandiloquent title of city ; 
probably tlie honest ex-Pen nsylvanians 
would not permit the use of such mis- 
leading names. 

At Belle vSprings we found our nephew 
INIr. A. L. Hall,ot Lancaster county, wlio 
had gone there last spring on a {prospect- 
ing trip, and finding that he could make 
himself useful he settled dowui to work in 
house building, and in harvest helping 
his employer. His expression of satisfac- 
tion was sucli that, while an early return 
from the promised land was expected, 
with a re))<trt on itfs cjualities as he saw 
them, his returii is indetinitely postponed 
and will give him opjtortunity to quietly 
consider the matter of making a purchase 
and ultimate removal. His residence 
with Mr. Eli Hoffman and family, for- 
merly of western Lancaster county, and 
near neigh liors befoie they left Pennsyl- 
vania, tend to mal-ve him satisfied iu a 
country where i)eople are not many and 
neighbors some distance apart as com pared 
with the east. I must here give testi- 
mony to the hospitality extended by Mr. 
Hoft'man to us, and also to say that all 
these people are lu^spitable and accommo- 
dating in the extreme. We were solicited 
very earnestly to remain until Sunday 
(this was Saturday) but not calculating 
upon such pressing kindness and with the 
twelve miles return, we declined and 
turned our faces toward Abilene, where 
we arrived in the early evening. The day 
had been exceedingly hot-lO-i degrees in 
the shade. It will surprise the eastern 
people when they go west, particularly as 
visitors, to find' how little account the 
people there uuike long distances ; a ride 
or drive of one or two hundred miles is 
accomplished in a short tinie and really 
one hardly- perceLes how quir-kly the 
ground is covered when the country is 
generally level. 

The next day (Sunday) Mr. Hall and a 
friend rode into Abilene to spend the day 
with us, but as our tinje was very short 
and there being nothing of any special in- 
terest to the casual visitor, besides finding 
that but one "through train" passed west 
that day, we concluded to leave rather 
than remain until the next day at the 
same hour, for the railways iu the west, 
iu consequence of the general stagnation 



10 



A SUMMERtTRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



iu business, have rediu'ed the trains to 
one ''through traiu" a day each way; 
and during the rest of our travels, both in 
going west and returning to the Missis- 
sippi, we found this very inconvenient 
state of affairs, preventing our stopping 
a few hours here and there wljere we 
might have seen something of interest, 
but not enough to venture the loss of 
twenty-four hours should it not prove 
so. 

Leaving Abilene in the afternoon we 
continued through good country, passing 
Solomon City, crossing Solomon river 
near its junction with the Smok^' Hill, 
also crossing the Salina, proceeding on 
through Salina, Brookville, Fort Barker, 
Ellsworth, Wilson, Russell and Ellis, all 
towns of ujore or less importance ; at the 
latter place we took supper. The crops as 
we go west seem lo consist more of wheat 
and less of corn, as if the soil or clinjate 
was not adapted to the perfection of the 
latter. After passing Russel the country 
gets poorer and poorer and is used more 
for cattle herding, also horses and sheep, 
for we see great numbers of theui as we 
pass along. Darkness covered the laud 
and we were left to think of the sights 
thus far seen and early stowed ourselves 
to rest and sleep until daybreak, for we 
were at the time of closing our eyes three 
hundred miles from Denver, and at day- 
break had over one hundred and fifty 
miles to ride before breakfast. The tired 
traveller can generally sleep anywhere 
and so we took it by putting together the 
cushions of three seats (there not being 
many passengers) because we were unable 
to get a sleeping l)erth at Abilene. Sleep 
gotten in this manner is generally much 
broken, and we got the first glimpse of 
morning, and consequently of the coun- 
try, at a very early hour. On tiie prairie 
and at theae high elevations the morning 
dawn appears much earlier than iu the 
east ; it may be several hours before sun- 
rise. 

With the break of day we found f>ur- 
selves not far from Kit Carson, a station 
on the railroad, named after the famous 
scout and frontiersman. The station pre- 
ceeding this, called First View, one hun- 
dred and sixty-seven miles from Denver, 
is socalled because here on a clear day the 
first view of the Rockies is obtained ; we 
did not know of it at the time and be- 
sides it was two o'c'ock iu the morning. 
The country we had passed through, 
we were informed, is rather thinly set- 
tled, and on opening our eyes in the 
morning they fell upon a country that 
could not be inviting; a sandy soil, if 
soil it can be called, gravelly and some 
stones, with some sage brush. Now sage 
brush is like the Jamestown weed ; it de- 



lights in what apparently no other plant 
could live on ; the ground consequently 
is very poor, and a goat or mule would 
starve to death if comptlled to eat this 
only vestige of vegetable life, even though 
they have reputations which rival the 
ostrich. But we come to places before we 
reach Denver where absolutely nothing 
will grow. We are crossing the great 
American Desert. 

In njany places along the road where 
we saw cattle grazing the country was 
apparentlj' so bare of grass that Mrs. B. 
often said she would like to be alongside 
of the mouths of the-^^e aiiimals to see 
what they got to eut. Here and there is 
a rank grass called "bunch or buffalo 
grass" which the cattle seemed to enjoy, 
but at this season of the year it appeared 
as if blasted by heat and withered for 
want of water, of a color strikingly like 
as if it liad died from the roots; it is 
claimed, however, thai it is self cured and 
very nutritious, but we are of the impres- 
sion the cattle were making a virtue of a 
necessity as there is nothing else to eat, 
nor do I think any eastern cattle could be 
induced to think it fit to enter their 
stomachs; yet these western cattle gen- 
erally looked well, and frouj here they 
are shipped or driven lo market at Kan- 
sas City, Omaha, Chicugo or farther east. 
This grass range or grazing belt extends 
absolutely across the United States from 
north to south, is many miles wide and 
reaches far up on the foot-bills of the 
Rockies. From Kit Carson the railroad 
extends north-westerly to Denver, where 
we arrived at 7:30 a. m., mountain time, 
six hundred and thirty-nine miles from 
Kansas City. 

W'e had passed from Kansas City to 
Denver over what was apparently a level 
or gently rolling prairie, and the travel 
should have been easy and rapid, but the 
contrary was the case, for it was difficult 
and slow. This will be explained when 
I say that Kansas City is 7(33 feet above 
sea level and from there the gradual 
ascent to Denver reaches 5203 feet or 
about one mile above sea level. This is a 
long pull and requires a strong pull, but 
is trifiing in comparis<jn to other ascents 
of greater height in much shorter dis- 
tances which are subsequently made in 
the railway cars. The atmosphere be- 
comes more and more rarified as we 
ascend this grade; the mountains were 
seen at a longer distance than what we 
would be enabled to do in the east. To 
the sonth-west stands Pike's Peak among 
the snow capped mountains as a land- 
mark which guided many a weay strug- 
gling adventurer or emigrant who had to 
make the journey overland on horseback 
or iu "prairie schooners" to this newer 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



11 



El Dorado just prior to the building of 
tbe U. P. R. R. 

Arriving at Denver we proceeded to the 
Brunswick Hotel, wliere, after tlie neces- 
sary ablution, we partook of a substantial 
breakfast and then laid down to rest. 
The Hotel Brunswick we can recommend 
to all visitors to Denver, for comfortable 
accommodation, excellent and plenty of 
provision, agreeable and courteous atten- 
dance, and charges moderate considering 
quality. Denver is buill on the desert 
prairie which surrounds it, giving an un- 
Qbstructed view on the north, east, and 
south, for very many miles ; but on the 
west are the Rockies, and while they are 
in full view from the city and appear to 
be scarcely more than an hour's walk 
away, they are from fifteen to twenty 
miles away. If you don't believe it and 
want to take a little exercise before break- 
fast, try a walk to them ; only take your 
breakfast before you g.), unless 3'ou want 
to postpone the breakfast until the next 
day. This deception as to distance which 
is general in these high altitudes is due 
to the raritied atujosphere and is not easy 
to appreciate at first. 

How or why this spot should have been 
selected as the site of a city is not at this 
time easy to say. It may be a part of the 
unwritten history with which we are un- 
familiar ; it is, however, the offspring of 
those peculiar enthusiasms which pervade 
a certain class of mankind who love rov- 
ing and adventure in wild and almost in- 
accessible places. This much we got 
from one of the early pioneer settlers, 
that "it was conceived in sin, brought 
forth in iniquity and was slill a little 
wicked." 

Thirty years ago there was no settle- 
ment at this point ; only the prairie in its 
dreamy barrenness. About 1856 or 57 
some prospectors announced to the world 
that sjold was to be found at Pik«'s Peak, 
so from the settlers or rather the miners 
who flocked to this vicinity beginning a 
town with all the characteristics of min- 
ing towns, it is now a city of 75,000 in- 
habitants, as well built as any eastern 
city of its size, having some buildings of 
which" any city might be proud, wide 
streets, well shaded and with running 
water in the gutters carried by conduits 
from the mountain streams which never 
cease to flow. Business of all kinds is 
carried on in buildings of considerable 
pretentions as to size and architecture. It 
has, however, been largely in the direc- 
tion of out-fitting miners' camps, etc., 
and the receipt and shipment of the pro- 
ducts of the mines. The private residen- 
ces are, many of them, surrounded by 
lawns, filled with flowers; in some in- 
stances the houses are palatial, for there 



is great wealth here. We saw the rtsi- 
dence of Mrs Tabor No. 1, which is built 
on a plot of about four acres including the 
whole block, which is cultivated to about 
two-thirds of its extent, the whole enclos- 
ed by common l)oard and post fence. 
Trees of various kinds are scattered over 
ground, giving it a rural appearance ; the 
the house is of brick and quite extensive 
We made a call at the residence of Bishop 
Warren of the M. E. Church, but as he 
was absent from the city we did not see 
him. 

The Tabor Grand Opera House is a 
large ornamental building of stone and is 
one of the most finely appointed places of 
amusement in the country. It was built 
by the millionaire Tal)or, who also owns 
a large hotel in Denver. The Court 
House is probably the finest in the coun- 
try, built since ISSO, at a cost complete in 
furniture, etc., of $350,000. It is finished 
in bard woods and the floors are laid in 
marble tiies. We were kindly taken 
through by an officer and finally conduct- 
ed to the douie, frt)m which we had a 
grand view of the city, Uiountains and 
surrounding country for many miles. 
The permanent exposition building just 
outside of the city, is constructed on the 
same general plan as the Main Centen- 
nial Exposition building in 1876, only it 
is much smaller. Here annually are 
shown the [)roducts of the earth's surface 
and the niines of the state attracting 
large numbers of people. The railway 
depot is a large and commodious building 
of stone and admirably adapted to the 
purposes for which it had been built. 

The city is supplied with all of the 
modern conveniences of water, gas, elec- 
tricity, horse and steam street ears, etc., 
as ii'. any of the largest eastern cities. 
Cherry river runs through the city and 
is bridged over at many points ; it is gen- 
erally a dry river (?) ni this season of the 
year, but in times of great rains and over- 
flow of mountain streams it is filled to a 
more or less extent. The South Platte 
river adjacent to the city, is, however, a 
permanent stream. Denver is the point 
of departure selected by most tourists for 
taking various excursions among the 
mountains and they are numerous. A 
certain railway guide says that the area 
of Colorado "comprises 104,500 square 
miles of mountains, canons, valleys, and 
plains," and the visitor wonders where 
the agriculture is carried on which is said 
to be so extensive and susceptible of still 
greater development. 

So after resting somewhat and seeing 
in a quiet way, the particular sights of 
the city, we concluded to start out among 
the mountains, first having taken some 
letters of iuiroduction to Mr. Geo. Ady, 



12 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



the obliging general agent of the U. P. R. 
R. at Denver, and from him we received 
such advice as was exceeding serviceable 
because the snow in the uiountains even 
in July is not always sufficiently melted 
to allow easy visit to souie points, and 
there ai'e occasional snow slides and wash- 
outs that prevent the trains from running 
and such had occurred this spring ; it is 
also a fact that some few much lauded 
places are not worth a great deal of effort 
to see, particularly if special trips are to 
be made to see them. Of some of these 
points we were judiciously advised. 

While I shall aitempi to make a de- 
scription of what we saw in these excur- 
sions and may state some almost incred- 
ible facts, it will be but a faint shadow of 
the reality, for no man can by word or 
pen do justice to these wonders; they 
nmst be seen. I shall have occasion to 
refer to the parks of Colorado, of which 
there are three grand divisions, having 
smaller parks inside them. These three 
are the North, Middle and South Parks, 
each covering many thousands of acres 
and surrounded more or less with walls 
of high mountains. Within them are 
some mountains also, but generally of 
less altitude. Tlje valleys in these basins 
are generally broad, covered with grass, 
tine streams running through them, fur- 
nishing fine fishing, hunting and graz- 
ing. The North Park extending from 
southern Wyoming southward into Col- 
orado, a distance of probably 5(J miles 
we did not visit; in it rises the North 
Platte river. Middle Park, separated 
from North Park by the Park View 
mountains, is less extensive, about sixty 
miles west of Denver. We got a view of a 
portion of it from an elevated point ; in it 
ri.sea ttie Grand river, which, uniting 
in Arizona with the Green river, forms 
the Colorado river. South Park is very- 
large, occupying the wlioleof Park county 
and this is a very large county ; the park 
is about sixty miles south-west of Denver; 
in it rises the South Platte river. 

Our first trip out of Denver is to Lead- 
ville, one hundred and seventy-one njiles 
away (but about two-thirds of that dis- 
tance in a straight line) by the Denver 
and South Park division of the U. P. R. 
R., following the banks of the South 
Platte river, through Platte canon, over 
Kenosha summit to Buena Vista, then 
northward to Leadville. The road is ap- 
parently constructed with an eye to 
safety, the need of which can only be ap- 
preciated by seeing it ; the steep grades, 
the narrow ledges, the frightful precipices, 
the overhanging rocks, the narrow canons, 
the short and frequent curves, require 
a solidity and strength of material, 
both in road and rolling stock, together 



with great care and management, with- 
out which destruction and death would 
be the frequent result. The first portion 
of the road passes southwest along the 
wooded banks of the South Platte and 
reaches appart^ntly up to the face of the 
niouniains, when with a sudden turn the 
train dashes into Platte canon, until then 
unseen in the approach. With minds 
prepared by previous reading we had 
looked for something grand and sublime, 
but the reality far overreached our ex- 
pectations. At this point the North Fork 
of the South Platte emerges with a wild 
rush from between the granite i)()rtals of 
the canon. From the time of leaving 
Denver we proceed to ascend a grade; on 
through the canon the road continues 
uj)ward to Kenosha summit, 10,000 feet 
above sea level, and nearly 5,000 feet 
above the level of Denver. The walls of the 
canon are sometimes very close together, 
and encroach upon the river, at other 
times widening somewhat, have more or 
less precipitous faces, very rugged, and 
presenting at every turn some new feat- 
ures. The fancy can trace faces like the 
"Old man of the Mountain" in the White 
Mountainis of New Hampshire, and heads 
in various positions, as if they were the 
guardian spirits and were entering a pro- 
test to the advance of the intruder into 
these solitudes; or perhaps beneath the 
Cathedral Spires (so named from the pro- 
jection skyward of slender pinnacles of 
rock resembling spires) are vaults unex- 
plored wherein these spirits of the valley 
gather to commune. In the channel the 
Wiiters of the river go bounding down- 
ward over the boulders, rushing against 
the rough side walls, boiling in the abrupt 
curves and lashed into a fury and milky 
whiteness in their efforts to extricate 
themselves from the mighty fastnesses. 

With scarcely a mile (4' straight track 
in climbing on towards the summit we 
pass around curves so short that they are 
denominated "mule shoes" in contrast 
wjth the horse shoe curve in our own 
state before alluded to ; the road-bed often 
on a ledge of rock no wider than just suf- 
ficient to hold it; precipices that make 
the hair almost stand when viewing and 
contemplating the result of what might 
happen ; bridges are crossed from one 
side of the canon to the other, fetching up 
apparently against a wall, but the train 
dashes suddenly aside, so that for quite a 
while no little alarm is felt at this con- 
stant swaying of the train from side to 
side as it quickly and with energy passes 
the curves producing also in sensitive 
persons a sensation somewhat akin to sea- 
sickness. When riding along in the bot- 
tom of the canon, little is to be seen but 
water, the almost perpendicular walls 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



13 



towering up hundreds of feet, and the 
sky ; wliere the wall? are not too close to- 
gether then the snow capped peaks are in 
view when not mantled with clouds; 
when high up and you look down into 
the canon you wonder that light ever 
penetrates to its depths. Besides the 
Cathedral Spires, Dome Rock is in full 
view from the train ; it stands out a bare 
barren rock from the clifF, and as its name 
indicates, resembles a church dome, 
though on a grander scale than any con- 
structed by man. It inspires the beholder 
with wonder at what must be thefounda- 
tion of such a mass of solid rock. At 
various points along the line are stations 
with a few cabins, much lauded as health 
resorts, but it is only the hunter or tisher, 
or some one who wants to rough it, who 
takes any comfort in them. 

We at last reach Kenosha or Kenosha 
Summit 10,000 feet above sea level and 
seventy-six miles from Denver, rising in 
the last seven miles just 1,000 feet, and 
yet this magnificent specimen of engineer- 
ing skill has greater rivals. Fronj this 
height the scope of view is immense and 
the scenery varied and grand. With 
peaks above us covered with snow, we 
look off into South Park with its varied 
undulations and see fields of standing 
grain, vast tracks of the greenest and 
freshest grass and herds of countless tliou- 
sands of cattle and sheep. From Kenosha 
Summit we descend into South Park and 
pass through it for forty-six miles, cro.ss- 
ing gulches and creeks which are the 
sources of the South Platte river, and at 
a short distance beyond we reach Bueiui 
Vista, 7,957 feet above sea level and 2,000 
feet below Kenosha ; here we take the 
Denver and Rio Grand railroad and pro- 
ceed northward to Leadville following 
the Arkansas river which takes its rise 
in the hills above Lead ville. From Buena 
Vista to Leadville we climb the moun- 
tain sides 2,250 feet with views almost as 
varied as in the Platte Canon and through 
South Park ; we pass in close proximity 
to Twin Lal^es 8,500 above sea level and 
begirt by mountains, but we did not feel 
interested in merely seeing two bodies of 
water at this altitude, there being other 
matters more attractive. In this part of 
the road we see the curious and almost 
paradoxical condition of mountains on 
one side of a valley exposed to the north 
almost bare ot vegetation and capped 
with snow, while on the other side of the 
valley the mountain sides are covered 
with flowers of many kinds and various 
colors, as numerous as field daisies and 
dandelions in their height in the east. 
Dandelion grows in this chilly atmos- 
phere. 

We arrived at Leadville in the evening, 



cold and tired, took a carriage to the Clar- 
endon hotel and after supper retired 
early. Leadville is built upon a gentle 
slope at the foot of the mountain and is 
nicely and easily drained; immediately 
back of the city are the mountains, the 
sides covered with pine forest and tops 
covered with snow which is almost per- 
petual. The valley here is quite wide, 
from fifteen to twenty miles to the moun- 
tains iu the west, though they appear to 
be within easy walking distance; to the 
north are high mountains, making this a 
sort of basin with the outlet to the south. 
Leadville is the county seat of Lake 
county and is purely a mining town, the 
result of the finding of the precious 
metals which run through all this coun- 
try. It is only about ten years old, and 
is a wonder fir location, size and popula- 
tion in thisshort period ; whilestill rough 
it has become much polished within a 
recent period, making it tolerable for re- 
fined people ; general good order prevails. 
Some of the buildings are substantial and 
of good size; many are only one story 
wooden buildings with wooden sidewalks. 
The streets in many places still have the 
stumps of the trees which were cut away 
at the time of the first settlement. The 
business is generally that of shipping ore, 
preparing and shipping bullion, the 
products of the mines, uierchandize and 
miners' supplies ; all the provisions con- 
sumed iu this place are brought here, and 
it astonished us to see the young moun- 
tains of tin cans that contained meats 
and vegetables, which after having been 
emptied were thrown out on heaps. The 
region in this vicinity is honey-combed 
with tunnels and shafts in search of gold, 
silver and lead; these three and particu- 
larly the two last are found together. 
Lead, however, is the principal metal, as 
might be inferred by the application of 
the name to the town. Gulch and placer 
mining is also carried on in the gulches 
where water is plenty ; the water washes 
the precious stuff from the mountain side, 
and it accumulates in the bottom, where 
it is gathered up. Earth supposed to con- 
tain gold is carried to these streams and 
washed in pans and the gravel, etc., is 
then examined to see how it "pans out." 
Where there is apparently considerable 
mineral the stream is interrupted by a 
series of low dams which permit of the 
accumulation of the gravel while the finer 
particles are washed farther down the 
channel. From these dams extend flumes, 
which are wooden troughs about two and 
a half feet wide and twelve to eighteen 
inches deep ; in these are transverse nar- 
row strips of wood over which the water 
runs. These flumes often extend many 
miles. Men in rubber boots and pants 



14 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



stand in the dams, and with picks and 
shovels keep stirring the water, throwing 
out tlie larger rocks as they conie across 
them and piling them up on the bank. 
The fine particles of gold and silver are 
floated into the flumes and there the 
stream is broken by the strips of wood in 
them ; in the depressions made by them 
mereurj' is placed, wliieh, having a great 
atflnity for gold and silver, takes up the 
particles. At the end of the season they 
have what they call a "wash up," the 
quicksilver is collected, the separation is 
made and then only is it known whether 
the season has been one of profit or loss. 
Streams are sometimes turned from their 
beds and tlie bottom worked over. Hy- 
draulic mining is not carried on to much 
extent in Colorado. This is done by play- 
ingastream of water under great pressure 
against a hillside containing the metal 
and thus washing it loose. It is in reality 
but a form of placer mining, but with 
more extended application. We went to 
the mouths of several mines, but did not 
enter them. A road, one of the roughest 
I ever saw, with dust twelve to eighteen 
inches deep, is the only one to the mines, 
and it is over this road that the ore is 
brought into the city. We did not enter 
because they were bringing out ore from 
one, the shaft of which was down a steep 
inclined plane and we would have been 
in the way; at another a perpendicular 
shaft of several hundred feet offered no 
inducement to try, and a third, probably 
the richest of these, had just inside a 
closed door, over which were a skull and 
cross bones, very suggestive of "no admit- 
tanceexceptatyourowu peril." In another 
mining district, however, we did enter a 
mine, and of that I will speak later on. 
The out-put of ore at Leadville is at pres- 
ent quite small on account of the low 
price of lead in the east which makes it 
unprofitable to mine, but pay mineral is 
almost inexhaustible in this region, 
making Leadville permanent. 

The Harrison smelter on the edge of 
the city is an imnjense affair. Here 
much of the ore is carried and reduced to 
metal, which is transported to Denver, 
Omaha or St. Louis for separation. The 
smelter is built on the same principle as 
an iron furnace, only the stack is not so 
large, generally there are several. The 
ore, of which we saw great piles at the 
smelter, bears no resemblance to the 
metals which it contains and the richest 
is often that which is apparently of the 
least value for any purpose whatever, and 
by the uninitiated would be regarded as 
rubbish. 

We did not visit the Mountain of the 
Holy Cro.ss, north-west from Leadville, 
requiring about twenty-five miles of rail- 



roading and eighteen miles staging, if 
passes on the mountains were clear of 
snow, and of that we were not assured ; 
besides it was not known whether the 
mountain was sutflciently clear of snow 
to see the Cross at this time. The moun- 
tain itself is not ascended, there being no 
trails, and it is 14,176 feet above sea. It 
is viewed from an opposite range several 
miles off', ana can be seen from certain 
elevated points nearly one hundred miles 
away. It is called the Mountain of the 
Holy Cn)ss in consequence of two im- 
mense fissures near the top and running 
transversely to each other, making a cross. 
The longitudinal one is said to be 1500 
feet long, 50 feet wide and 50 to 100 feet 
deep; transverse fissure is about 700 feet 
long ; the winter snows fill these fissures 
ana cover the mountain top, but when 
tlie summer's sun melts the snow on the 
mountain, then the snow remaining in 
tile fissures shows the white cross ; this 
is never entirely melted out. Ifthesum- 
mer should happen to be late the Cross is 
not seen until late, and that we feared 
was the case this season. Had the early 
Spanish missionaries seen this mountain, 
they doubtless would have established a 
monastery here. At Leadville we noticed 
the influence "f the high altitude upon 
ourselves in a tendency to fullness of the 
head, headache, flushed face and hurried 
respiration. This would probably have 
not been so marked had we been entirely 
quiet and been here some time before 
starting out, but we had come to see the 
place (not to stay) and did some hill 
climbing on foot, which, under more fav- 
orable circumstances would have been 
sufficient'y trying. 

From Leadville we retraced our steps 
to Buena Vista and spent the night. At 
this place is a fine hot-l and some other 
buildings of fair proportions, but is mostly 
made up of one story shanties, as in all 
the very young western towns, particu- 
larly in the mining region. At 5 a. m. 
we left for Gunnison, seventy miles west 
by south, and at 7:40 a. m. we stopped at 
Alpine for breakfast. Alpine consists of 
a small railroad station and a log house, 
indeed it seemed no place for a traveller 
to dine, but we were prepared for this ap- 
parently forbidding condition while we 
were in Denver. We ventured into the 
log house, found everything clean and 
tidy, and a breakfast awaiting, the recol- 
lection of which even now makes my 
mouth water, and as you may suppose a 
two and a half hours ride among these 
mountains and this delightful bracing 
atmosphere, made appetites prepared for 
anything ; but here is the bill of fare- 
mountain trout broiled to a turn, laml> 
chops sweet and tender, hot cakes and 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



lo 



biscuits, delicious coffee and creani, with 
fresli raspberries to tiuisli ; and to cou- 
suiue all Ibis we were allowed quite tbirty 
uiiuutes. On all the roads west from 
Denver there is liberal time allowed for 
meals, which is a great comI"ort, i)articu- 
laiiy if the coffee, cakes, elc^, are served 
Very hot, as they seem inleiUioiiully to be 
at many i)hices in the east, with only a 
few minutes allowed to consume them. 

The train continues in its upward 
journey among the Rockies, and at Han- 
cock 10,939 feet is reached ; then on to 
the Alpine tunnel 1773 feet long, at an 
elevation of ll,()2o feet. In the thirty- 
two miles from Buena Vista to tiie tunnel 
we make a rise of 4,032 feet, and have 
Chalk Creek below us with all the pecu- 
liar and varied acenery of this region. 
Al(>ine tunnel is on the divide in the 
Saguache Range and it is poetically stated 
tbat two drops of water hant>ing together 
in an uncertain manner to the roof, drop 
to the floor and according to the fact of 
their falling at one place or anotlier, one 
goes eastwaid to the Gulf of Mexico and 
the other westward to the Gulf of Cali- 
fornia, and thus by circumstances i)re- 
existent their courses are widely diver- 
gent, probably never to come together 
again. Wiiat a lesson in the everyday 
life of humanity ! There are over six 
iiundred feet of rock above the tunnel. 
The building of the tunnel was accom- 
plished with great difficulty and cost, and 
was made to open the Gunnison country, 
which is rich in valuable mineral. 

From Hancock to the tunnel we are 
above timber line, surrounded by barren 
rocks, and snow two to eight feet deep 
along the tracks and ten to twelve leet 
deep at the tunnel. At the western end 
of tlie tunnel we enter a sn<nv shed where 
the train stopped twenty minutes for 
water. We took the oppcutunity to do a 
little snow-balling and face-wasiiing, the 
otlier passengers participating ; here the 
snow is perpetual. Snow-sheds are nec- 
essary at souje pointf. along the line, for 
from the steep mountain sides plunge 
masses of snow, carrying huge boulders 
with them, irresistible in their force and 
carrying ail before them. These sheds 
are sometimes very effective in diverting 
these masses over the cliff, but notwith- 
standing the sheds are built of thick 
round timber bolted together and fastened 
to the rock by two inch iron rods, the 
wholestructureis sometimes carried away 
breaking rods and beams as if only made 
of candy. We saw workmen recovering 
portions of wrecked snow sheds which 
laid several hundred feet below the bed 
of the road. Numbers of snow sheds 
cover the railroad where it passes along 
the mountain side in the Chalk Creek 



Valley and make the traveller think he 
is in a tunnel. 

lieginning our descent, at three miles 
from the tunnel we reach Woodstock, 
where, a year or two ago, the whole town 
was swept away by a snow slide or 
avalanche, and some fifteen lives lost ; 
we saw what was left of this unfortunate 
place. By zig-zagging along the irregular 
mountain sides wegradually descend into 
Quartz Creek Valley, along which we 
saw such cities (?) as are all along the 
line, the houses of which are frequently 
if not generally of rough logs piled to a 
little above the height of a man, with logs 
placed across the top for a roof, and these 
are covered with brush and turf. In the 
turf, when moist, numerous flowers are 
seen growing. We have seen many such 
buildings (Covered with most beautiful 
flowers. Whitewash and paint are almost 
unknown in Colorado except on the more 
important buildings. This gives the 
towns (even though of some size) a decid- 
edly dullappearance. At Quartz, a station 
10 miles from Alpine Tunnel, through 
the kindness of the conductor I got on 
the engine and had a ride of sixteen 
miles. The opportunity thus given, af- 
forded one of the finest views of the trip, 
which Can only be given to all passengers 
by t he introduction of open observation 
cars. Tlie conductors are most affable 
and readily give information to travellers 
whether soiiciltd or not. 

At ll:oO a. m. we arrived at Gunnison, 
7,582 feet above sea level and seventy 
miles froni Buena Vista. Gunnison, 
county seat of Gunnison county, is located 
in a narrow basin entirely barren, sur- 
rounded by higli nnniutaius. A more 
uninviting spot for a town would be hard 
to select, and why it was located here is 
almost as iiard to tell. People in the 
east are led Irom various sources, to be- 
lieve that Gunnison is one of Ihe wonders 
of Colorado for size (considering age), 
activity, business inter* sts, etc., but a 
more dead place does not exist within the 
boundary of the state. The "son of a gun" 
who located it is probably dead and I 
believe Lieut. Gunnison, after whom the 
town, the adjacent river and the country 
beyond were named, is tiead too. It is 
well laid out, the buildings are not num- 
erous and are most unpretentious except 
the hotel, The La Veta, a large and mag- 
niflcent new brick building, the accom- 
modations of which are very superior and 
the rates remarkably low, though tran- 
sient rates are advertised at three to four 
dollars per day. Business in general is 
almost at a dead stand still and few' i^er- 
sons are to be seen on the streets. Perhaps 
the people were hunting or flsbing, for the 
hotel cards say this is"au excellent moun- 



18 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



tain resort for huutiug and fishing." I 
should think it an excellent place for 
huutit/g, but you want "seven league 
boots" to get over the mountains, other- 
wise you are apt to "get left." Fossil 
Ridge and West Elk Mountains are in 
sight ao<l it njight be that unless you 
were well provided, that "you would 
have to sleep on a boulder and pull the 
clouds down over you" as somebody has 
suggested. 

On our way to this place we passed 
peaks having various names, but we did 
not note them. In addition to the points 
of interest already mentioned I neglected 
to speak of our passage over the famous 
Alpine Pass near the tunnel. The rail- 
road is built on a narrow ledge of 
rock against the mountain, only wide 
enough for one track, narrow gauge at 
that, with perpendicular walls of solid 
granite, hundreds of feet above, and on 
the other side you can look down many 
hundreds of feet below, while the view 
offin the valley is awfully sublinje. The 
Palisades on the western decline present 
views which are second only to those of 
the Alpine Pass, and the Hair Pin curve 
of the railroad on the same side strikes 
the observer with astonishment. You 
are in a narrow deep gulch, where, as the 
road courses along one side you look out 
and see the road just below on the other 
side, which is reacned by njaking a curve 
so short that it is called a "hair pin." 
Except as to the degree of the curves we 
were frequently, almost (H)nstautly going 
over such windings both in the ascent 
and descent. We were awe-inspired at 
what we saw, and now after tiie excite- 
ment is over and calmly contemplating 
all the scenes and incidents we are lost in 
wonderment at the marvels of nature and 
the astonishing results of man's ingenuity, 
skill, perseverance and labor in the face 
of almost insurmountable obstacles. This 
country just passed through as might be 
supposed from the description given, pro- 
duces nothing for the sustenance of man. 
Everything must be carried into it; a lit- 
tle pasture here and there for a few horses 
may be found. Silver, gold and lead are 
about the only productions. But our 
story is far from linished ; we have more 
to see and more to say. 

We left Gunnison, having done it very 
thoroughly and in a very short period of 
time, very soon reaching the gulches of 
the Tornchi river, a branch of the Gunni- 
son river, surrounded by snow clad rocks. 
One side of the valley was entirely bar- 
ren while the other was green with pine 
trees, small shrubs and innumerable 
flowers of many varieties in full bloom. 
At Sargeant thirty-nine miles from Gun- 
nison, we stopped for dinner. Here we 



took on a large engine and commenced a 
steep ascent until seventeen miles farther 
on Marshall pass is reached at an eleva- 
tion of 10,850 feet having passed through 
one snow shed after another for many 
miles, goirig along precipitous mountain 
sides with frightful precipices and over- 
hanging rocks. This is ground and lofty 
climi:)ing, but a tumble over one of these 
precipices would make "lofty and ground 
tumbling." Our stop is made in a snow 
shed nearly a mile long, with snow and 
ice on all sides. We are also on another 
divide, which is very marked. I got out 
of the train and placed one foot on the 
descent toward the Atlantic and the other 
lOot on the descent toward the Pacific. 
At 4:30 p. m. we leave Marshall Pass and 
the next twenty-five miles is one of won- 
der, almost horror. The scenes we have 
passed over seem to be here reproduced 
in an exaggerated form if that were pos- 
sible ; bridges spring from one mountain 
side to another, crossing almost unfath- 
omable chasujs, descending to Salida, 
which lays in a basin of the Rockies in 
the valley of the Arkansas. 

Salida is the junction point of three 
railroads and is (juite a smart place. Tlie 
hotel at the station is called Monte Cristo. 
It is owned by the railroad company and 
is very comfortable. Here we spent Sun- 
day quietly resting. The town itself pos- 
sesses nothing particularly interesting. 
July 21st, Monday, we left, descending 
along the Arkansas, through the valley 
of which, in some places, is sulticient 
bottom land to allow of some cultivation 
of wheat, oats and grass by means of irri- 
gation. We pass a number of small 
stations, many coal pits and few habita- 
tions, mostly cabins. The mountains 
on both sides are tall and gray, and as we 
approach the Grand Canon the mountain 
peaks with very craggy sides increase till 
tiiey reach thousands of feet above the 
track which winds in and out along their 
sides with not five hundred yards of 
straight track for twenty miles, the rocks 
often overhanging the track and train, 
with the river just at the edge. 

At Park Dale, a sn)all station forty-six 
miles from Salida, we enter the Royal 
Gorge of the Grand Canon of the Arkan- 
sas. 1 cannot do it justice ; words fail at 
the hands of anyone. A cleft in the 
mountain, in many places thirty or forty 
feet across at the bottom, with perf)en- 
<lieular and overhanging walls 2000 to 3000 
feet high, that the gloom of evening i)er- 
vades at midday, for the sun scarcely 
penetrates to the bottorii of this awful 
crevice. We travel three or (our miles as 
it were through a dimly lighted tunnel, 
for on looking up the walls seem to almost 
come together and only a ve.'-y narrow 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THP: CONTINENT. 



17 



streak of light can be seen. The feeling 
is one almost aniountiug to awful dread. 
Tiie road rests on a ledge of these perpen- 
dicular wails, the rock having been liiasted 
away for that purpose. Atone point an 
iron bridge extends across the gorge from 
wail to wall and braced like the rafters in 
a comb roof, and from these rafl'^rs the 
bridge hangs. This bridge as also a por- 
tion of the road was l)uiit l)y workmen 
being left down from the top, and, swing- 
ing in chairs, attacked the rocky sides 
and gained a foothold. The river is full 
of the rock blasted off to make the road- 
bed and which could not then be re- 
moved. 

Up, up. up, is rock, rock, rock, for 
nearly oUOO feet, while down bf-low is the 
Arkansas, roariug and surging in this 
narrow pass. Almost deafened with the 
noise of cars and roaring waters we felt 
our littleness in the presence ot the won- 
ders of (lod and the ingenuity and skill 
of man. Going ten miles through this 
gorge we leave it at Canon City and come 
upon the open valley, the road following 
the river to So. Pueblo and fioni there 
northward to Manitou. The country 
from Canon ("ity to Manitou is mostly 
barren except wiiere irrigation is carried 
on. Canon City has long been known as 
a health resort on account of springs, 
climate and air ; there are also works of 
various kinds, and a depot for the ship- 
ment of coal which is mined in the 
vicinity and which is of excellent quality. 
Colorado has extensive coal deposits 
which are relatively as valuable as they 
are necessary in all the extensive mining 
and other operations of the state. 

From Salida to South Pueblo is ninety- 
seven miles, from South Pueblo to Manitou 
is fifty miles. From Canon City toSouth 
Pueblo we pass numerous castellated 
rocks on the mountain range, often con- 
tinuing for njiles together, with here and 
there a break, resembling massive 
masonry, the stones being in parallel and 
even tiers as if they composed the walls 
of an extensive fortification. South 
Pueblo is a place of considej-able size and 
importance, being a railroad point, with 
car and repair shops, etc. ; we did not 
stop here. From South Pueblo we go 
northward to Coloiado Springs, following 
the banks of the Fountain creek, a branch 
of the Arkansas, which it joins at South 
Pueblo. The road passes through a sandy 
desert ; on the west, varying from five to 
ten miles distant, the front range ot the 
Rockies is in view, with Pike's Peak over- 
topping all. Numerous buttes are also 
seen on the plain ; these are elevations 
of various sizes and shapes, generally of 
rock and making no pretentions to being 
mountains. They are seen very fre- 



quently all along the various roads in the 
west and often present very curious ap- 
pearances. Ill thedistaiice they resemble 
the remains of forts, or of towers, like the 
ruins of some of the feudal castles on the 
Rhine in Germany. One incident of this 
part of our trip was a sand storm, which 
came up very much like wliat we 
sometinjes see in the east in the wind 
and dust just preceeding the rush of a 
violent summer thunder and rain storm, 
only without the thunder and rain ; the 
sky for a short time became hazy, then 
the wij|d sprang up, and a noise "resem- 
bling mild hail came from the car roof. 
The conductor and brakemen rushed in 
closed all the windows ; then followed a 
shower of sand in the furious wind, the 
dust entering all the crevices ; this lasted 
only a few minutes. I have no doubt 
that the overland travellers through these 
western deserts have had experiences 
such as we see pictured in our geog- 
raphies and books of travel as occurring 
to the caravans on the Arabian and 
African deserts. 

We also saw along this road communi- 
ties of prairie dogs, wonderful, comical 
and interesting. Out on the plain where 
nothing grows that we could think would 
serve the purposes of these little creatures 
they exist by thousands. They are seen 
scampering about and in a most impudent 
way sit upright and motionless upon their 
haunches, staring at the passer, but 
should a motion be made at all aggressive 
or intrusive, then quick as a fiash they 
drop into their holes and are gone. They 
are also difficult lo shoot on account of 
their rapid movements. Around each of 
their holes for a radius of three feet there 
are planted apparently by them a stock- 
ade of sunflowers from eighteen to thirty- 
six inches high, and within this stockade 
the utmost apparent cleanliness and good 
order prevails. At other places along the 
U. P. R. R. we saw great numbers of 
these interesting little creatures. I will 
here say that we saw at various times, 
acres upon acres ot sun -flowers growing 
wild like field daisies between Kansas 
City and Denver, and from being quite 
large at the former place, they gradually 
decrease in size of plant and flower until 
in Colorado the flowers would notaverage 
three inches across. 

At Colorado Springs we took the train 
in waiting for Manitou, five miles west- 
ward. VVe were soor; meandering be- 
tween the foothills of the front range, and 
after passing close to the Garden of the 
Gods,i,arrived at our destination, nestled 
in among the mountains, at 5:30 p. m., 
and stopped at the Barker House, a fine 
cottage hotel, exceedingly comfortable 
and well managed. After shaking off 



18 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



the sand of the desert and a good wash, 
we took tea and bad au hour's walk before 
retiring. Manitou i^- located on Fountain 
creek, a clear and swift running stream 
which supplies tlie town with water and 
has its rise in the adjacent mountains. It 
isasmall, quiet towu of about tivehundred 
inhabitants; it has several tine hotels of 
considerable size, churches, schools and 
private residences; most of the buildings 
are of wood built on the cottage plan, very 
neat and apparently comfortable. The 
business portion of the town is rather 
inconsiderable. Trees are planted, along 
the sidewalks and flowers adorn the yards 
of the residences. Manitou is a very busy 
place during the summer months, because 
it is a summer resort for the people of 
Denver, invalids and tourists. The 
springs, iron and soda, which are num- 
erous, furnish an attraction. There are 
convenient bath houses connected with 
these springs ; one in particular is a large 
two story building, very ornamental, 
fitted up in almost extravagant style in 
dressing rooms, parlors, etc. This place 
should have been called Colorado Springs 
and Colorado Springs should have been 
called Manitou or something else because 
there are no springs there. 

While the middle of the day may be 
very hot, as soon as the sun gets past 
meridian the temperature is more eom- 
comfortable, and at night a blanket or 
two to sleep under will be required. This 
last is a luxury as compared with some of 
our eastern experiences in mid summer. 
There is a great deal of cam()ing out on 
the mountain slopes, and from the town 
tents may be seen in every direction. 
They are occupied by invalids and others 
who are after the pure and undefiled 
mountain air. These tents are sometimes 
used far into cold weather. 

Immediately out from Manitou, among 
the mountains, are short canons, the 
most noted of wliich are Williams and 
Cheyenne, Manitou Trail, Ute Pass, Gar- 
den of the (jlods and Glen Eyrie, which, 
together with mountains, small parks, 
springs, etc., furnish varied amusement 
to carriage jiarties or those on foot. Afier 
breakfast the next day we engaged a two 
horse carriage with driver and guide and 
visited the Garden of the tiods. Glen 
Eyrie, Williams' (Janon and Ute Pass. 
The Garden of the Gods doubtless derives 
its name from some Indian legends of the 
spirits or manitous. It isagenerally level 
basin surrounded by high walls of rock, 
showing all manners of colored strata, 
and in nearly all positions, justifying the 
belief that there had at one lime l)een an 
upheaval by a very great force. The sur- 
face of the basin lias profusely scattered 
over it rocks made up of i)araHel and hor- 



izontal layers of different densities of a 
reddish sandstone which have taken all 
sorts of shapes by the action of running 
water, resembling pillars with capitals, 
huge mushrooms, even fantastic shapes, 
and are named according to certain re- 
semblances, as Wild Irishman, Punch 
and Judy, Mother Grundy, etc. They 
vary in size from a few feet to several 
hundreds, one reaching three hundred 
and thirty feet. The larger ones are 
known by different names and are gen- 
erally denominated as "Gods." Perhaps 
they were regarded as visible evidences of 
their spirits or manitous by the Indians. 
Tlie gateway of this garden is an opening 
in the rock probably one hundred feet 
wide, the rock on each side being strati- 
fied, of various colors, as red, yellow, 
wnite, etc, standing on edge and nearly 
four hundred feet high, the jagged upper 
edge resembling a saw with irregular 
teeth. Just inside the portal and midway 
between the two walls is a lone rock of 
considerable size, but small as compared 
with the height of the gateway. Itseems 
as if placed to direct the visitors to the 
right or left at ingress and egre-ss. While 
passing through the garden we saw in the 
face of one of the walls what appeared to 
be the impress of the complete skeleton 
and antlers of a large buck deer and it is 
called the Buck. On one of the sides of 
the portal is a form of the rock resembling 
a lion with his foot on a seal, and is called 
the Lion and Seal. A similar formation 
resembling the upper parts of a woman 
in a sitting posture is the Lady of the 
Park. Balance Rock or Pivot Rock is an 
irregular ovoidal mass stratified in hard 
and soft layers and of a reddish color. It 
Is twenty-five feet or more in height, 
stands on its smaller end and appears as 
if it might be easily upset. It is gradually 
crumbling away and will eventually 
tumble over, but not in many years. A 
little grass is seen here and there through 
the Garden and some grass and a few 
scrub trees are seen in the crevices of the 
rocky walls. 

Tliis strange, wierd place is difficult to 
describe. It is visited on moonlight 
nights by romatic individuals, and I have 
no doubt the imagination could be brought 
to see more strange and fantastic forms 
in the shadows than are apparent in day- 
light. Monument Park, very near here, 
is one of the same character ; we did not 
visit it. (jleu Eyrie, adjacent to the Garden 
of the Gods, isa valley between the moun- 
tains, full of beautiful scenery and curious 
rock forms. One of the latter, a column 
called Major Domo is twenty-five feet 
high and two and a half feet through ; it 
stands alone and resembles some of the 
stone monuments attributed to the Druids 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



19 



in Europe. In Glen Eyrie is the beauti- 
ful eouutry resideuce of General Palmer, 
formerly the president of the Denver and 
Rio (Grande railroad. From here we 
drove to Williams' Canon, one of those 
numerous clefts in the mountains, about 
three niiles in length, with towering side 
walls of rock widening out as they go 
ujnvard, but in some places at the bottom 
so narrow that the hubs of the wheels 
almost touch the rock on each side. The 
road which is very poor is so nairow and 
in such precipitous places that it is im- 
possible Tor two vehicles to pass except at 
j)oints where there are turnouts. A very 
small stream runs through the canon. 
The scenery is very grand but not of that 
sublimity of the Platte and Grand 
Canons. Our attention was called to an 
eagle's nest high up on an inaccessible 
shelf of the rock wall of this canon. I 
mention this only because eagle's nests 
are not often seen even by hunters. On 
one side of the canon, far up and reached 
by a long tlight of steps, is the opening of 
the Cave of the Winds, said to be mag- 
nificent with stalactites and stalagmites; 
but having visited Luray Cave two years 
ago, we did not think this could exceed 
that in splendor, so we did not go in. We 
had come to visit such of nature's wonders 
as the east did not possess. From Wil- 
liams' Canon we went to Ute Pass. This 
was an old Indian trail to points farther 
in the mountains and during the Pike's 
Peak and Leadville excitement it was the 
road over which the camp trains reached 
those places. GJoing as far as the Grand 
Falls we took a drink of pure njountain 
water, and doing the s.ime at an adjacent 
Iron Spring we returned to Manitou. 

Manitou Park, reached by the Ute Pass 
is a pleasant summer resort and has a fine 
hotel, but we did not visit it. The Seven 
Falls in Cheyenne Canon we did not 
visit ; they are said to be very interesting 
and picturesque, but not large and grand. 
Pike's Peak tiiirteen miles away, ever in 
sight, is one of the great attractions of this 
vicinity. Manitou Trail leads to it, but 
as it is only reached by horse-backing, 
the rest on foot and a portion of the trail 
dangerous, though visitors generally after 
their return from the peak do not give 
expression to the fear they experienced 
on the narrow road, and the awful preci- 
pices they pass, where a single misstep of 
mule or horse means death, we did not 
venture, though at first intending to do 
so. Parties starting out in the morning 
from Manitou return in the evening, 
making a round trip of twenty-six ujiles. 
A railroad to the peak is in contemplation 
or in process of construction, which when 
complete will out-rival that on Mt. Wash- 
ington or the Rigi in Switzerland. A gov- 



ernment meteorological station is on top 
and sometimes in winter conununication 
with the town is cut off for several weeks, 
by thesnow storms ; such was the case last 
winter, when two of the three persons 
who remain there came to town for pro- 
visions, etc., leaving one behind, a snow 
storm prevented tlieir return for two 
weeks ; the trails were covered and hid- 
den ; the telegraph wires were broken, 
but after several efforts they reached the 
top, gladly finding their companion alive, 
wliile they had feared he would be starved 
or frozen to death. 

From Manitou we went to Colorado 
Springs leaving the mountains behind us. 
No springs are here except those from 
pipes or irrigating canals, which carry 
the town's water supply. It is a finely 
built place, the houses being generally of 
wood. There are several fine hotels, the 
largest and best of which is The Antlers, 
built of stone and one of llie finest in the 
state. The streets are wide, well shaded 
with cott.ni-wood trees and water cours- 
ing along the curbs. This water is also 
used for irrigation of gardens, etc., con- 
taining beautiful flowers. The water 
supply for domestic and other purposes 
comes from Fountain Creek, which is 
carried by ditches along tiie mountain 
sides from Manitou over thirteen miles. 
Where irrigation is not used the prairie 
is barren. Little rain falls here and that 
generally in July and August. The 
average of snow and rain for the year 
amounts to fifteen inches. 

Colorado Springs is a beautiful place 
and a resort in summer for persons living 
in adjacent places, tourists and invalids. 
The clear, rarified atmosphere of this 
vicinity is regarded as very salutary in 
pulmonary diseases, and is considered 
with more favor even in winter than the 
warm moist atmosphere and low ground 
of Florida or other southern states. The 
condition of society is about all that can 
be desired, schools, churchs, etc., are 
numerous and the communication with 
the rest of the world frequent and easy. 
Our stay in Colorado Springs was of short 
duration and taking a train on the Den- 
ver and Rio Grande railroad, we left for 
Denver, seventy-five miles north, passing 
along a branch of the FoJjntaiu Creek 
and a branch of the South Platte river, 
along which we saw horses, cattle and 
sheep by thousands. 

July 24, we left Denver by the Colorado 
Central railroad for Black Hawk, Cen- 
tral City, Georgetown and Gray's Peak. 
W'e crossed a prairie country for about 
twenty miles, generously cultivated by 
irrigation, producing fine wheat, oats and 
corn. A short distance froni Denver we 
pass the Argo smelter, one of the largest 



20 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



in this state. Tbe first place of any im- 
portance on tiiis line is Golden, at tbe 
nioutb of Clear Creek or Tougb-enss 
Canon. It is a very busy place, built of 
brick and frame and surrounded by 
buttes several hundred feet high, upon 
wiiicb it to some extent encroaches. Here 
are smelters and iron works of fair pro- 
portions. I must here relate a little in- 
cident, somewhat serio-comic, connected 
with this place as having occurred to 
Isabella L. Bird, au English lady, who 
in 1873 went through the canons and over 
the mountains of Colorado principally on 
horseback. "Passing bj' a bare and des- 
olate looking cemetery, I asked a sad- 
looking woman who was leaning on the 
gale if she could direct me to Golden 
City. In doleful touts she said 'Ob, go 
to the uiiuister ; I might tell you, may be, 
but it's too great a responsibility ; go to 
tbe ministers, they can tell you!'" I 
miglit remark in passing, that cemeteries 
are not plentiful in Colorado, that is so 
far as we observed. Occasionally we saw 
small private burial places on some of the 
farms, just as we find them occasionally 
in the east. It is stated that the famous 
P. T. Baruunj (Greatest Sliow on Earth) 
in a lecture on Colorado, said : Why, 
Coioradoans are the most disappointed 
peoj)le I ever saw. Two thirds of them 
come here to die, and they canU do it. 
This wonderful air brings them back 
from the verge of the tomb, and they are 
naturally exceedingly disajipointed." 

But to return to our journey ; we con- 
tinue along Clear Creek, enter the canon, 
and at Fork Creek we turn to the rij^ht 
in a gorge and follow it to Black Hawk, 
the first mining town of any importance, 
8057 feet above sea level and nearly 3000 
feet above Denver. Black Hawk lies in 
a narrow ravine iu the mountains, which 
surround it on all sides, and with num- 
erous mines scattered over their surface. 
Tl)e ore is carried lo the town and if not 
reduced there, it is ship|)ed by rail to 
other places for that purpose. Itisa busy 
place when mining is in full o[)eration. 
The houses have no level ground to be 
built U|)on and their gal)les are facing the 
few streets tiiere are, presenting a curious 
appearance. This latter is the case in 
most of the mining tovvus. Five hundred 
feet higher up on the mountain, but 
almost joining Black Hawk, is Central 
City. By straight line they are about one 
mile apart, by wagon road two and one 
half miles, luit by railroad the distance is 
four. Now, laying railroads in the 
Rockies is no joke, for the cost and en- 
gineering skill is simply enormous where 
the grades are so steep. The railroad 
connecting these two places is called the 
Zig-Zag, and it is just what its name in- 



dicates. Starting out from Black Hawk 
for a short distance the train l)Hcks up a 
steep grade to a certain point, when by 
turning a switch it goes forward and up- 
ward to another point; it then backs up 
another grade to a third point, then for- 
ward and upward to Central City. This 
is zig-zagging back and forth on the hill- 
sides and not ascending bj' curves. It is, 
in fact, a switch back road. It fills one 
with astonishment ; how little one man 
is in this great world, but what power he 
displays in the intelligence his God has 
given him. 

We arrived at Centra! City, forty miles 
from Denver, in the evening, having 
passed numerous mines, some in ap- 
parently almost inaccessible places, both 
up and down the hillside. Theopeuings 
in the distance look like the opening of 
burrows made by animals and the men 
could only be distinguished as such by 
powerful gla.sses. We also passed various 
stampers and w'ashers. These are com- 
posed first of hoppers made of iron, into 
which the ore is placed, and stamps 
weighing many hundred pounds each, 
arranged in rows, are raised and let fall 
by machinery, thus Crushing the ore into 
fine particles After the (^rushing the 
ore is placed in large kettles of iron hav- 
ing agitators, in the bottom of which is 
metallic mercury ; then water is run into 
these kettles and by agitation tbe gold 
and silver are combined with llie mer- 
cury from which they are subsequently 
separated, and tlie rock and dust washed 
away. Even this waste water, when it 
readies the gulches is again worked over, 
and we saw at various points, Chinese 
and others up to their waists in water, 
stirring it up, and carried on as in the 
description of placer mining betV)re men- 
tioned. The mines in this district are of 
great richness and extent, thougli 'ittle 
was doing at tbe time of our visit. 

The next day after breakfast we started 
out on a mountain climb of about one 
mile to visit the Bonanza Tunr.el, where 
we met by appointment Mr. Btck, who 
is part owner and manager. This tunnel 
extends over 1300 feet in a straight line 
with drills or entries on both sides pene- 
trating i'rom 300 to 600 feet each. As its 
name indicates it is indeed a bonanza 
Millions have been removed from it and 
t he supply seems inexliaustible. Procur- 
ing lanterns we entered with Mr. Beck, 
and saw sights which rivalled tbe beauties 
of the grottos and caverns of the Arabian 
Nights, the (]Uar(z crystals sparkling as 
gems with tbe pr'.'cious metalw in v rious 
combinations as sulphurets, etc., studded 
the mass. We went to the face of the 
mine at the end of the tunnel and there 
saw and touched our shadows made by 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



21 



the light which entered at the mouth aud 
because of the straightue.ss of the tunuel 
tlie light was uninterrupted (he whole 
length of 1300 feet. Of course our lamps 
were extinguished to show this. After 
gathering a few siiecimens, which by the 
kindness of our conductor we were per- 
nntted to carry away, we left and after 
us was closed a strong door over which 
are the expressive skull and cross bones. 

Taking a hack we went back to the 
Teller House, which we left after din- 
ner, and taking the train down the Zig- 
Zag proceeded to Forks Creek to go to 
Georgetown, where we arrived the sanie 
evening a little late, a delay having oc- 
curred in consequence of the Denver 
train preceeding having been wrecked by 
a jackass, who was jack enough to think 
he could frighten tlie locomotive by 
jumping out of the bushes in front of it ; 
the consequence was that both parties 
cauje sadly to grief, the locomotive and 
balance of the train being derailed and 
badly wrecked and underneath lay silly 
jack, having made his htst bray. The 
road to Georgetown lays in the gorge and 
it is still up, up, up to 8,500 feet with the 
scenery like that already described. We 
saw mine holes dotting th-e mountain 
sides and placer mining going on in the 
bed of thestreanj. On our M'ay we pass 
Idaho Spring, a famous resort on account 
of the numl)er and variety of mineral 
s])rings both liot aud cold. One hot 
spring is of such a temperature that the 
hand can only be immersed for a moment. 
These springs are much used by invalids ; 
beyond tliis. attraction, Idaho Springs is 
but a mining town with nothing peculiar 
to distinguish it from tlie others. 

Georgetown is (ifty miles from Denver, 
and has a population of 8000, very active 
as a mining town, and is supplied with 
the necessary apparatus for reduction of 
ore, etc. It is in a level basin ; the houses 
are principalij- of wood. The business of 
this place is enormous. Far up in the 
mountains are the Chicago Lakes visited 
from Georgetown. We did not go to 
them, but Green Lake, which is more 
convenient, we concluded to take in. 
We took passage in a four-horse coach, in 
which were other tourists, for a three 
mile ride along and up the mountain 
sides to an elevation 2000 feet above 
Georgetown. The incline of the road is 
fearful (over 600 feet to the mile) ; the 
road is one of the rougliest, and the preci- 
pices terrifying. A broken axle or simi- 
lar accident on this narrow way, just 
wide enough for a vehicle, would have 
precipitated us over the mountain side, 
and a funeral more or less numerous 
would have been the inevitable result. 
In going up the heavy passengers were 



placed in the forward part of the coach ; 
coming back was more dangerous, as it 
was down grade, the heavy members tak- 
ing tlie back part, and all holding on to a 
strong strajj extending from end to end 
to keep them from sliding forward in it. 
Green Lake is located nearly 11,000 feet 
above sea level. It is a small but beauti- 
ful sheet of the clearest water from the 
snows on the surrounding and overshad- 
owing mountains, and is skirted by small 
pine trees. A ride on its placid surface 
in a row boat enabled us togeta line view 
of its l)eaiitiful and grand surroundings 
aud also to peer into its depth, which are 
considerable (several hundred feet). 
Trunks of trees in various positions are 
seen at the bottom and they are repre- 
sented as the reuiains of a petrified forest. 
They probably are waterlogged trees from 
the mountain side. Trout are here by 
the thousands and are very tame, coming 
at call to be fed. An old German who 
seems to attend to this dis|)!ay, has sev- 
eral of them named, being distinguished 
by size, color or some other distinguish- 
ing feature. One is called the Kaiser 
another Kaiserin, etc., and hespealis ten- 
derly of them, "der arm teufel, er wilt 
auch etwas." A convenient building is 
placed on the edge of tlie lake'for the use 
of visitors and a hotel is in contempla- 
tion. 

This getting up in the world will 
liardiy be appreciated by one who lias 
not had the experience, for to speak of 
ten, eleven, or twelve thousand feet above 
sea level only conveys the idea of a great 
lieight ; even two or three thousand feet 
to one who has never seen it means 
quite as much. One must stand near a 
rock and look to its top two or three 
thousand feet above or be above aud look 
down to know how terrible it is, aud how 
little we are. At no time when we were 
at our highest elevations were we above 
all the mountains, there were still those 
whose sides rose more or less perpendic- 
ularly from tiie roads we were on, not in- 
cluding particular [teaks. 

Returning to Georgetown without ac- 
cident, for which we all congratulated 
ourselves, for tiie descent was more dan- 
gerous than the ascent, we left for Silver 
Plume, farther up. The road becomes 
very tortuous aud is here known as The 
Loop, taxing the constructing engiueers' 
resources to their utmost. I cannot de- 
scribe its windings to be intelligible to 
another without using a plan, but the fol- 
lowing will possibly convey somewhat of 
an idea: The road jiasses around the 
edge of Georgetown and crosses itself by 
a bridge three hundred feet long and 
ninety feet high. First you pass under 
the bridge and proceed up the canon. 



22 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



span Clear Creek and turn again towards 
Georgetown. From the bridge you look 
down upon the track below and also upon 
Georgetown, taking in Devil's Gate and 
Bridal Veil Falls. Then you turn away 
from the town, then towards it, and still 
higher, a complete loop having been 
made, and three curves, which very 
nearly become loops. From one point 
six distinct tracks are visible at different 
levels, but they are parts that we had 
passed over, and were parts of our road. 
At last we reach Silver Plume, 500 feet 
above Georgetown, less than two miles 
distant by straight line, but over four and 
a half by rail. 

Silver Plume is a small but busy min- 
ing town located in a gulch with but little 
level ground. The name is derived from 
a beautiful waterfall in the creek. Mines 
are on all sides, the dumps frouj which 
spread themselves out like fans on the 
mountain sides. We did not stop but 
continued on to Graymout, four ujiles 
farther on, at the foot of Gray's Peak, 
from which it derives its name, with bare 
mountains projecting all ar.)und. It was 
formerly called Bakerville and consists of 
a new frame hotel of fair size for this 
place, but of rough construction, a frame 
house, a log stable, a shingle mill, etc., 
and is the terminus of the road. It is the 
resort of visitors and those con (em plating 
an ascent of the peak. We spent the 
afternoon and night here and had ar- 
ranged with the liveryman for horses to 
go up the i)eak in the niorniiisr, but the 
serious illness of Mrs. B., which canje on 
suddenly, forced us to abandon it and 
seek a place where, should the illness be 
protracted, we should have medical ser- 
vice and other comforts. So we left on 
the first train next (iay. The high alti- 
tude was probably the cause of the illness. 
Graymount is 20()() feet above Georgetown, 
eight miles away and nearly 11,000 feet 
above sea level. 

Gray's Peak is 14,441 feet high, the sec- 
ond in height in Colorado, and is called 
the Dome of the Continent. The ascent 
is made by carri:tge to Kelso Cabin, the 
limit of timber, where the horses are un- 
hitched and saddled, for the carriage road 
now merges in a narrow trail, which 
winds arout)d several hills and then goes 
towards the top by winding round the 
peak. Togo straight up would be im- 
possible. To have failed to reach the 
peak was to us a great disappointment. 
The openings of mines are seen all around 
and it makes one wonder how Iheniineis 
can get to them or get ore away from 
them, they seem to be in such inaccessi- 
ble places. The night spent at Graymont 
was the tnost uncomfortable of our trip. 
Our sense of security was considerably 



shaken, though probably without cause. 
The partitions in the hotel were only 
of boards covered with muslin to con- 
ceal the cracks; our next neighbors 
were somewhat noisy and individuals 
with dogs in the bar room were appar- 
ently up all night, which with loud 
talking and barking, made us feel un- 
comfortable in this lonely and elevated 
part of the country. A huge tire was 
built outside the house and we did not 
know how carefully it was managed nor 
for what purpose it was intended. It was, 
however, very cold here. 

Clear Creek Canon is from end to end a 
panorama of grandeur and sultlimity, 
with towering walls 3000 feet high in 
some places. It is a place all tourists 
should visit. Clear Creek, which plunges 
throuiih it from its beginning near Gray- 
mont to near Denver, with a fall of over 
5000 feet is by no means clear. It is at one 
time crystal waters and milk-white foam, 
have become muddied of various colors, 
so to continue while man with pick and 
drill, penetrates its mountain sides, for all 
this color is from the washings from 
stampers and gulches. We return to 
Denver, leaving behind with regret these 
wonders to which I have allucied, for a 
complete descrii)tion is almost impossible. 

Time is flying and there are many 
ujiles and many things to claim ouratten- 
tion as we chase the sun towards its set- 
ting. 

From Denver northward to Cheyenne 
we pass over the western edge of the 
desert, with the mountains on the left. 
We follow the South Platte to within a 
short distance of Greely, where the river 
is crossed, and arrive at Cheyenne, one 
hundred and six miles from Denver, in 
the evening. The country is flat and 
only cultivated where irrigation is carried 
on. Greely is nicely located, has a popu- 
lation of l)etween 3,000 and 4,000, and 
surrounded by well-kept farms. Chey- 
enne, in Wyomiiiij Territory, on the 
main line of the U. P. R. R. Ave hun- 
dred and sixteen miles from Omaha 
and of 0,038 feet elevation, has a popula- 
titui of six thousand. It is a l)Usy place, 
beginning oriyinally as a point of distri- 
bution to the mining and stock districts 
of Dakota, Wyoming, Montana, Colorado, 
etc., which it still is, and besides is an 
important railroad and stock centre. At 
Ch« yenne we took supper, changed cars 
and' in a sleeper continued our journey 
towards Ogden. We are still cl'ml)ing to 
tlie backb 'lie of the continent, passing 
through narrow canons, and curiously- 
shapedrocks on each side. One in par- 
ticular near Sherman is called the Hippo- 
potamusRock, consisting of an irregu- 
larly oblong mass representing the body 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



23 



resting upon several smaller ones repre- 
senting the legs and feetof the ungainly 
and unwieldy animal after which it has 
betn named. All this is upon an eleva- 
ted rock platform which resembles huge 
masonry. 

Sherman, thirty-three miles from Chey- 
enne, at an elevation of 8,235 feet, is 
reached before dark. It is the highest 
point of the Union Pacific railroad, and 
indeed the highest on this transconti- 
nental line. On a sign a short distance 
from the station are the words, "Summit 
of the Rocky Mountains." Just beyond 
Sherman we saw the monument erected 
to Oakes and Oliver Ames, who were 
chiefly instrumental in bringing this 
railroad to completion. It is a pyramid 
of granite 65 feet high and 60 feet square 
at the base, and is marked by medallion 
busts of each of these gentlemen. Dale 
Creek Bridge, west of Sherman two miles, 
is built of iron, 600 feet long, over a chasm 
130 feet deep. It has rather a delicate 
appearance, but is a very substantial 
structure. We enter upon the great 
Laramie Plains, which are 40 by 100 miles 
in extent, of fine grazing country, but to 
the eastern traveler there are here few 
views except the mountain ranges in the 
distance which charm the eye. On these 
plains are pastured many herds of horses, 
mules and cattle, in numbers that seem 
almost incredible. These herds do not 
require shelter and the natural grass is 
accessible nearly the whole year, there 
being only a few days each year that it is 
entirely covered with snow. We also 
noticed the great number of windmills or 
rather winti-pumps which supply the 
water at the railway statioiis and at other 
points for euttle and like wants. 

Night closes over the scene and we re- 
tire, and in the morning look longer for 
the sun than we did on the eastern slope 
for we are descending towardsthe Pacific, 
though t!>ere are steep grades to climb 
and elevations to be crossed over before 
we see its waters. The Wind river, Medi- 
cine Bow and Snowy ranges of mountains 
are in the distance and seen from the 
ri>ad, and as we ap[)roacii Utah tlie 
Uintah range comes into view. The 
country grows more barren and seems to 
produce nothing but sage brush. The 
eyi' tires of it and the attention is turned 
to other matters such as reading, talking 
or slt-eping, lor tlioiigh crossing the 
Rocky mountains, you would wonder 
that tiiey could lie so named, for there is 
not that roughness that you are led to ex- 
pect. It is the high altitude that we are 
on, and tije proximity of snow-capped 
mountains which give indication that we 
are crossing the back-bone of the conti- 
nent. Sage brush is a small shrub of 



varying height from six inches to three 
or four feet, with narrow oval leaves, of a 
sage-green color, sometimes yellowish 
and having a slightly aromatic odor. It 
grows in little l)unches, and generally 
where no timber is to be seen. It is use- 
less except that sheep, deer and antelope 
feed upon it, because there is nothing else 
to eat when they are in the sage-l)rush 
region. 

We pass over gullies and by castellated 
rocks which stand out alone on the plain 
or run in ranges of a similar character 
and are from 300 to 1000 feet high. Snow 
sheds that are continuous for miles and 
resemble tunnels lined with timbers, 
there being at regular intervals apertures 
for the admission of light ; sometimes 
they stand out clear, at others they are 
built against the mountain side with 
timbers, one would suppose equal .to any 
force which could be applied to them, 
but they are often carried away bodily. 
Fire trains are kept at various points 
loaded with water tanks, hose, etc., to be 
conveyed to any point where the sheds 
may be attacked by the devouring ele- 
ment. Great care is required for under 
the summer's sun and no rain for weeks, 
these sheds become dried and are almost 
like tinden in their tendency to inflame. 
Snow fences are also numerous and con- 
tinuous. They are made of light material 
with the rails or cross-pieces not very close 
together, and at certain points consist of 
several parallel lines from 50 to 100 feet 
apart. These break the force of the wind 
when driving the snow and force the lat- 
ter to drift near the fences and keep it 
from the track, at least very materially 
reducing the (piantity. From what we 
have observed at this season of the year, 
we would hesitate to cross these wastes in 
winter, and if we did we would provide 
ourselves with considerable provision, for 
sometimes trains are snow bound for days 
and no eating stations for miles and no 
means of getting to them. It is related 
that in the winter of 1871 and 1872 there 
was a seventeen days snow blockade and 
deep enough to bury the standing tele- 
graph poles. 

Besides the stations, which are gener- 
ally most insignificant, often consisting of 
not more than two or three houses and 
very often often of only a side track, we 
saw' what are known as "dug-outs" in 
wliicli live miners, herdsmen and even 
families. They are built by digging out 
a cellar, raising a low side wall of turf 
covered with timber and earth. They 
are sometimes very capacious for that 
kind of building and very comfortable, 
for they are almost impervious to cold 
and are in little danger of collapse from 
the fierce winds which sweep these 



24 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



heights. Sod houses are also made where 
that material can be obtained, and are 
comfortable, that is, for this section. 
They would be regarded in the east as 
scarcely tit for beasts. 

Creston, seven hundred and thirty- 
eight miles from Omaha and 7,030 feet 
above sea level, is so called because it is 
near the divide. It consists of a telegraph 
station, side tracks and a section house. 
Three miles west is the summit or divide, 
from which the waters pass to the east 
and west respectively, though this place 
is 1122 feet lower than Sherman. Here is 
desolation ; there seems to be no living 
thing, animal or vegetable. The elements 
have here free play and appear to do so 
to the detriment of everything, even the 
ground over which they move. The view 
a short distance fronj here is one of the 
most extensive in this section and is esti- 
mated at about two hundred miles. This 
is the "Continental Divide." 

We pass on over alkali plains upon 
which nothing grows. The dust enters 
the cars to the great annoyaice of eyes 
and nose, for it is very irritant. Biiter 
Creek, which passes through a valley of 
the same name, is so called l)ecause its 
water is impregnated with alkali, which 
renders it almost useless. Some of the 
scenery in this valley reminds us of s(tme 
in Colorado, only they are not so great. 
The country for miles each way is under- 
laid with coal, the seams coming to the 
aurface very frequently; it is of good 
quality and easily min*^d. Rock Springs, 
eight hundred and thirty-one miles from 
Omaha, is the great coal depot on the 
Union Pacitic Railroad, and is a great dis- 
tributing point of tills great necessity, 
which is said to be of superior quality, 
second only to anthracite; it is called 
"lignite." 

We next come to Green River Valley 
througii which pas-ses Green River. Green 
River station is a dining station, and 
when the surrounding country is taken 
into consideration, om- would naturally 
expect that provisions, etc., would be 
scarce, and the prospect of a square meal 
would l)e very scanty, liut I assure you 
an iigreeable surprise awaits all who tr^- 
the fare. This and other eating stations 
along the road are owned and managed 
l>y the railroad company, and they make 
elegant and lil)eral provision. This is 
necessary in a desert country like this, 
and dining cars are not on all trains. 
Almost all the provisions have to be 
brcnight to these pla(;es from more or less 
remote points on the road, and it is to the 
interest of the company that they should 
be good and in plenty ami not extrava- 
giinl in price. 

The Green River Valley is curious and 



interesting. It abounds with fossils and 
muss agates, but is otherwise barren. 
Stratified rocks of strange shapes and 
great size abound, with impressions of 
fossil-tish, jilauts and insects at every 
clearage. The Twin Sisters, two ma.sses 
of rock, probably 200 feet high and 50 feet 
at the base, standing alone on a little 
knoll ; Castle Rock, high up on a bluff, 
resembling the tower of a castle ; Giant's 
Club, 250 feet high, standing alone with 
almost perpendicular sides, isclub-shaiied 
and is smaller towards the base than at 
the top, and is likened to a club with its 
handle stuck in th»'ground. The Giant's 
Teapot is of the same material as the 
club, but not by any means so high. It 
stands on a knoll and resembles the old- 
fashioned four sided China teapot, hav- 
ing a projection like a s^ont l)Ut no 
handle. Green River Valley is surround- 
ed by bluft's of the same material as the 
rocks just mentioned. The road follows 
one side at a considerable elevation above 
the river's bed. It was once a lake of 
considerable dimensions and the whole 
area shows evidence of water washings. 

Red Canon is passed through, with 
sides rising to a height of 8000 feet and 
very grand. We now enter tlie valley ot 
Black's Fork, which is located in the 
Uintah mountains and is full of beauti- 
ful scenery, cones, and bultis variously 
named arising on all sides, which, under 
the influence of the elements, are grad- 
ually melting away. The site of Bear 
River City is passed, iind the only evi- 
dences of a once lively town, founded in 
1868, are the head-boards of graves con- 
taining the bodies of some of its early but 
very rough settlers. At Evanstown. 
nine hundred .iiid fifty-seven miles from 
Omaha, we find a small but flourishing 
town, having a round-house, car and 
machine shops, with coal and lumber in- 
terests of consideral)le ujagnitude. It has 
also an eating station where elegant meals 
are served to travellers, Chinese waiters 
in t heir native costumes wailing upon the 
tables. There is (juite a conimunity here 
of these Chinese and their (luarter is 
called (Jhinalown, »vbere they have their 
Joss House and other buildings peculiar 
to these people. 

From here we-^tward we get among the 
Mormons. They are |)rincipally farmers 
in this vicinity and are to be found in all 
directions, from one to two hundred 
miles north, east, south, and west of Salt 
Ijake City. We leave Wyoming and at 
Wahsatch we are at the approach to the 
famous Echo Canon in Utah. This canon 
is full of wonders. Catliedral and Castle 
Rocks, hundreds of feet high, and along- 
side of which ordinary habitations are 
but ant hills; Hangir.g Rock projecting 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



25 



many feet from the mass to which it is 
attached and threatening to fall ; Senti- 
nel Rock standing erect and alone on a 
bluff as a sentinel on duty ; Witch's 
Rocks and Bottles, turreted and flask 
like; Egyptian Tombs, resembling at 
first sight the exteriors of those wonder- 
ful excavated rock tombs found along the 
Nile in Egypt; Pulpit Rock high above 
Echo Creek, which resembles a pulpit, 
and it is traditionally said that sermons 
have been delivered from it (perhaps they 
were "sermons in stones") ; Monument 
Rock, standing like a high, time-worn 
and lightning-shattered obelisk, marking 
an epoch in the earth's pre-historic ex- 
istence. These are but a part of the many 
curious forms, and convey but little idea 
of the ruggedness and grandeur of this 
canon, with its red sandstone and con- 
glomerate walls, cliffs, and ledges, from a 
few hundred to a thousand feet high. In 
this canon we pass a number of stations 
and small towns, but they are insignifi- 
cant and of no interest. 

From Echo Canon we pass on and enter 
Weber Canon, traversed by Weber river. 
The rocks are dark gray and present 
somewhat different features from those of 
Echo. The mountains on each side, 
while very high, do not have nearly such 
perpendicular faces. The Thousand Mile 
Tree is here with a sign hanging to it in- 
dicating the fact ; it is one tbousand miles 
from Omaha. Now this tree has nothing 
to boast of except that it occupies this 
place and is the largest of any of the trees 
in the neighborhood, and that is saying 
very little for it. It stands alone near the 
track and is always noticed by the pas- 
sengers in the trains. 

The Devil's Slide, a short distance from 
the Thousand Mile Tree, and on the op- 
posite side of the canon, is tnade up of two 
peipendicular and parallel masses of 
granite, projecting a number of feelabove 
the surface level of the side of the ujoun- 
taiu to which they are attached. Tliey 
are about fourteen feet apart, and eight 
hundred feet long, and extend from near 
the top of the njountain to the edge of the 
river; the space between the walls con- 
stitutes the slide. It is a very rough slide 
and it is not known whether his satanic 
majesty turned eastward or westward 
when he arrived at the bottom. We think, 
however, that he devoted con.siderable 
time to the east, and when Mexico turned 
this country over to Uncle Sam he hied 
himself back towards the Pacific. The 
early history of the west points conclu- 
sively 1o such an action. He has stopped 
sliding, iiowever, unless in some of the 
wild storms and in the dead of night he 
indulges in this pastime, as Hendriek 
tfudsou and his crew, covered with bar- 



nacles and sea weeds, amused themselves 
in rolling ten pins in the Catskills wlien 
wind and rain were most furious, thunder 
the loudest and lightning the brightest; 
and if you don't believe it go and hear 
what Joe Jefferson says about Rip Van 
Winkle. As the slide still remains 1 
think he must be not far away, and be- 
sides, Devil'sGatemustbe pa.ssed through 
before we can reach Ogden. It is just 
beyond and is a rough aiid rugged open- 
ing in the mountains ; the pass to which 
it leads is very grand. The old wagon 
road used in the overland transit is seen 
cut from the solid rock, for there is no 
other level space over which wagons 
could be drawn. 

Before entering Devil's Gate we were 
shown, far ofi' in the mountain top, holes 
in the rocks, whicii projected. They ap- 
peared no larger than a l>at yet we were 
assured they were several feet in diameter. 
They are sa'id to have been caused by the 
winds, but for this we cannot vt/uch. The 
The light is seen passing through them, 
which proves them to be complete per- 
forations. Leaving Weber Canon we 
passed over a number of bridges and 
through tunnels. We are ushered into 
the Great Sail Lake Basin, once covered 
by water, afterward a desert, but by man 
converted into a fertile and productive 
country, h conditioi\ which might be 
brought about in many parts of the deso- 
late and barren country through which 
we have passed. Artesian wells are bored 
here and there for the convenience of the 
railroad company, but more of these, with 
their water conducted over the land 
would enable it to be cultivated with 
profit. In all probability this will be 
done, as also the utilizing of streams, 
which now only follow their beds, but by 
dams, pumps and flumes, they may be 
made to serve man's [lurpose to his com- 
fort and profit and make the country use- 
ful and beautiful. 

Following the Weber River we arrive 
at Ogden early iu the evening, having 
been iwenty-fo'ur hours on the rail. Here 
we took supper and at 7 p. m. left for Salt 
Lake City, where we arrived an hour 
later, and stopped at the Continental 
Hotel. Early to bed for good rest we 
arose in the nioruing refreshed, and im- 
mediately got ready to do this most won- 
derful of "the western cities, founded under 
most peculiar circumstances and prosper- 
ing under influences regarded to be most 
demoralizing. Here is the centre of the 
Mormon world. This city lies upon a 
plain in the valley of the Jordan River 
(which is part of the Great Salt Lake 
Basin) having the Wahsatch mountains 
rising on the east and just behind it, with 
the river on the west. This is an oasis 



26 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



in the desert and was commenced in July, 
1847, by the Mormons from Missouri, 
under the leadership of Brighara Young. 
The city is laid out in rectangular plots 
of ten acres each, with wide streets, hav- 
ing long rows of shade trees growing at 
their curbs. The buildings range irom 
most imposing stone structures used for 
public and business purposes, to dwell- 
ings of stone and wood more or less pre- 
tentious ; the hotels are large, convenient 
and well kept, and the visitor is imme- 
diately struck with the great cleanliness 
and general good order of the place which- 
ever way considered. The n)odern con- 
veniences of water works, gas works, 
hotel elevators, etc., which are regarded 
as indispensable in these days, are here 
adopted in the most approved style. The 
city government is in the same general 
form as that of other cities of the same 
class. 

Armed with letters of introduction we 
sallied forth to see the city. We first 
stojiped at the county court house to find 
the U. S. Surrogate Judge, and failing in 
this we were referred to the U. S. Court. 
In goitig there we came upon ex-judge 
Smith of the Municipal Court. He is an 
elderly luan, using crutches and is a first 
cousin of the original Josepli Suiith, of 
Nauvoo fame, and founder of Mormon- 
ism. We also met Mr. Cannon, brother 
of Geo. Q. Cannon, who was sent to Con- 
gress as representative of the territory in 
that body, but was rejected because he 
had three wives. We liad a very pleas- 
ant talk with these and other dignitaries 
of the church and from them we obtained 
considerable iuforn)ation ; their courtesy 
will be long remembered. We had been 
infornjed that Mormons could be identi- 
fied as such anywhere, particularly the 
females; but we saw nothing to indicate 
a distinguishing feature from Catholic, 
p]piseopalian or ottier sect, and to this our 
newly made acquaintances rather humor- 
ously alluded. We had also been told 
that the hatred v)f the Mormons for the 
Gentiles was such that the churches, 
halls, etc., of other than the Mormon de- 
noniination were broken into and their 
windows and interiorsdestroyed l>y them, 
and the inmates interfered with. Our 
new friends called attention to the 
churches in view from where we were 
talking and we did not see anything but 
evidences of peace and good order. Per- 
sonal violence in the direction of perse- 
cution was in no wise indicated, but these 
gentlemen when asked whether other 
than Mormons could purchase property 
and obtain clear titles, said that tbey 
could, l)Ut that where there were two ap- 
plicants, one a Mormon the other a Gen- 
tile, the former would receive the pref- 



erence, for they knew what kind of a 
neighbor he would be and how tar to de- 
pend on him in the administration of 
municipal affairs. We were kindly 
directed as to objects of interest, even giv- 
ing us assistance by personal ititeiition. 
Others to whom we were not introduced 
were not less kind, not saying, "Go this 
way or that," but "Come this way and I 
will show you." These volunteered at- 
tentions stamp these people as among the 
most courteous to strangers that we have 
ever met. 

Tiie Tabernacle would be a wonder in 
any part of the country, but here it is 
more wonderful, when the disad vanluges 
of time and place of building are consid- 
ered. It is unlike any other building in 
the United States so far as we know. It 
is like a large inverted oval l)asin su|>- 
ported on forty-four sandstcuie })illars, 
three by nine feet in size and from four- 
teen to twenty feet high. The building is 
two hundred and fifty feet long, one hun- 
dred and fifty feet wide and seventy feet 
from the fioor to the highest part of the 
ceiling; the roof is ten feet higher. This 
immense douje is said to be the largest 
self supporting arch in America, with one 
exception. There are no pillars except 
those which suppoit the whole at tlie 
edge. A gallery extends around three 
sides of tlie interior and is thirty feet 
wide. The seats are not upholstered and 
arranged as in churches generally ; the 
pulpit is placed at some distance from one 
end. so as to enableall to hear the speaker; 
behind this is the organ, the largest on 
the western slope, retjuiring four blowers, 
and is said to be very fine. The sealing 
capacity is ten thousand with standing 
room for several thousand more. The 
immense ceiling is festooned throughout 
with evergreens, and presents a very at- 
tractive appearance. The accoustic prop- 
erties ot this building are remarkable. 
From the pulpit a speakei in an ordinary 
tone of voice, even in a whisper, can be 
heard in any |)art of the building, and 
better far away than very near to the 
speaker. A piu (not a spike) dropped 
into a hat upon the pulpit can also be 
heard. These points were demonstrated 
to us by the kindness of our conductor. 
In this building are held the Sunday ser- 
vices in summer, l)Ut as there are no pro- 
visions for heating, services in winter are 
held in an adjoining building. The Tab- 
ernacle is built almost entirely of native 
material, even to the furniture and organ, 
the shingles on the roof also having been 
made in Salt Lake City. It is enclosed 
by a high wall made of cobble or round 
river stones and mortar. The New Tem- 
ple on the same block and within the 
sameenclosureas the Tabernacle, is an im- 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE eONTINENT. 



posing buildingofgrauite, smooth dressed, 
one hundred and eighty-six and alialf feel 
north and south and ninety-nine feet east 
and west ; the walls are seven and eight 
feet thick and very durahle. This huild- 
ing was commenced in 1853 and is slill 
incomplete. 

The Edowment house is a large build- 
ing in the Tabernacle enclosure in which 
marriages are consecrated, and the people 
both men and women, undergo certain 
secret ceremonial services by which they 
become sealed to each other or to Heaven. 
The performances in this place have been 
regarded by some as barbarous and grossly 
indelicate, but of this we can not say. The 
Tithing House in the same enclosure, is 
the depository of tithes paid by the Mor- 
mons for the benefit of the church, and 
consist of money, merchandize, grain, 
cattle and other products; those who 
have not material tithes to contribute 
give an equiva eut in labor. The articles 
thus collected are either given in pay- 
ment to those employed to do any work 
for the church, or they are converted into 
money, and that is used to pay ; and it is 
also dispensed in charity, for this church 
organization is a large and powerful cor- 
poration with many enterprises other 
than religious religious, and beggary is 
not permitted. 

The residence of Brigham Young is 
quite imposing. Here he lived, had his 
offices, gave his orders and received visi- 
tors, and those having busiifess with him. 
Adjoining is a row of houses in which he 
kept his numerous wives. Amelia Palace, 
a tine building, was erected for his prin- 
cipal wife, Amelia, but he did not live to 
see it completed. We visited these places. 
Brigham Young died August 29th, 1877, 
and is buried on his place near by, which 
is reached by passing through the Eagle 
Gateway, the arch of which extended 
over the street and was surmoun(ed by an 
eagle. The arch is nowjdowu, but the 
stone pillars which su|)ported it still re- 
main. The ground where he is laid con- 
tains his vault, cut out of solid granite, 
and the slab covering his body is bolted 
dt>wn. Around this spot is an ornamen- 
tal iron fence six feet high; the whole 
plot is surrounded by a wall eighteen 
inches high surmounted by an iron fence 
four feet high. This is the shrine which 
all good Mormons visit ; 'tis the Mormon 
Kaba and Salt Lake City is the Mormon 
Mecca. Other buildings as Social Hall, 
Salt Lake Theatre, City Hall, Council 
House, hotels, churches of various relig- 
ious denominations, etc., are of very sub- 
stantial construction and some of them 
are of tine architecture. 

Z. M. C. I, Zion's Mutual Co-operative 
Institution, under the control of the chief 



Mormon officers, combines the manufac- 
ture, purchase and sale of nearly all 
articles necessary for the people ; branch 
houses are to l)e found in all of the lartit'r 
Mormon towns. Tlie l)uilding in Salt 
Lake City is very large and is known as 
the "Big Co'op." It is well s'ored with 
goods. At this time an inventory of stock 
was being taken and the doors wt-re closed 
to all comers. The motto of this institu- 
tion is "Holiness to the Lord," derived 
from the Bible and su|)posed to have a 
specific meaning here. Business is al.so 
carried cm hy others than Mt)rmoiis, but 
Mormons prefer to patronize those of their 
own faith. 

About three miles east of the i-ity on 
the Wahsatch mountains is Camp or 
Fort Douglass, overlook ing the city. This 
belongs to and is {garrisoned by the 
United States. We did not visit it though 
courteously invited to do so hy an officer 
whom we met. With Mr. Werner, 
United States Surrogate Judge, we made 
a call upon the governor of Utah. This 
position was formerly tilled by Brigham 
Young. Desirous of knowing more of 
the Mormons than we could learn in the 
east, we made a visit to the Deseret Pul)- 
lishing Company and purclia.-ed lheBo(»k 
of Mormon (wliich is tlie Mormon Bil:)le) 
and sundry other works containing the 
Articles of Faith, etc. With minds more 
or less prejudiced against the Mormons 
we were quite dis(!omtitted on finding 
their api)arent frankness, extreme affa- 
bility, and earnest endeavor to correct 
what they claim to l>e false statement as 
to their government, their creed and their 
treatment of Gentiles. A short synopsis 
of their history may not be uninterest- 
iiio'. 

Joseph Smith the founder and known 
as "The Prophet" was l)orn in Vermont 
in Decen.l)er, 1805. His father was a 
farmer and able to trive his son only a 
meagre common school education. When 
ten years old his parents removed to Pal- 
myra, New York. The religious influence 
surrounding him was of the Presbyterian 
creed. When about fifteen years old, 
being dissatisfied with the doctrines of 
this and other denominations, he was 
prompted by a scripture text to seek the 
Lord in his own way, so retiring to a 
grove he commenced praying and then 
had a vision of two angels who assured 
him bis sins were forgiven and that the 
different denominations were not ac- 
knowledged of God as Hi.s church and 
kingdom, but that in the fullness of time 
he should receive the true creed. Telling 
his experience to others he was by them 
subjected to persecution which continued. 
In 1823 he had another vision and visita- 
tion by a bright angel setting forth that 



28 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



the time was approaching for the gospel 
to be preached preparatory to the secoud 
coming of the Messiati, and that he was 
the chosen one to hriug about some of tlie 
purposes of this dispensation. He was 
also informed that certain records of tiie 
ancient Hebrew propliets were(u)nc'ealed, 
but tnat by God's direction he shouKi dis- 
cover them. The vision was twice re- 
newed tijut same night and also the next 
day while in the field. He immediately 
started to the spot where tlie angel said 
these records were, which spot lie imme- 
diately recognized near Manchester, 
Ontario county, N. Y. Here he found 
certain metallic plates variously inscribed 
in an unknown tongue with a key to de- 
cipher the same. He did not remove 
them until four years suL)se(juenlly, as 
he was oraered by the angel. The plates 
constituted the original Book of Mormon. 
After he had obtainea them, the persecu- 
tion waxed stronged, so that bis life was 
in danger. In consecjuence of this he left 
for Pennsylvania, packing the jiiates in a 
barrel of beans to preserve them from 
seizure, for an endeavor had been made 
to take them, and in tliis State he com- 
menced his translation of them whicii 
was published in 1830; this edition is 
scarce and costly. Tlie translation of the 
title of tile book as taken from the plate 
having equivalent cbaraoter.s is as follows, 
"The Book of Mormon, an Ac^count 
Written by the hand of Mormon, upon 
Plates, taken from the Plates of Nepni." 
He continued to have visions and visita- 
tions, and having a few who believed in 
his S{)ecial election to serve God's pur- 
poses, they organized the "Church of 
Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints." 
Persecutions by mobs and individuals 
continued and they went to Kirtland, 
Ohio, and subsequently to Missouri and 
Illinois, establishing on the prairies a 
number of thriving settlements. Every- 
where they were the recipients of the 
same attentions that they received in 
New York, causing their migration. 
Growing in power and wealth, their in- 
fluence WHS wanted in politics, wliich 
the political parties failed to obtain. Sol- 
diers were even arrayed against them and 
many were arrested ; others were shot 
down in the streets. Joseph Smith was 
taken from jail in Carthage, Illinois, and 
murdered liy the soldiery, J une 27, 1844. 
Martyrdom iii time past was horrible, 
but tliat such should be in the United 
States in the nineteenth century is cer- 
tainly a blot upon our history. This 
martyrdom of Jos. Snjith seems to have 
been liallowed by the divine presence if 
the statementsrelativelheretoare correct. 
Plyruin Smith, an elder brother of .Joseph, 
was also murdered in the Cartljage jail on 



the same date. 

The Saints selected Brigbani Young, 
an apostle, as successor t<t Smith in tlie 
presidency of tlie organization. They 
settled in the western part of Mi.-souri in 
some three or four counties, nonli, east, 
and south of where Kansas City now 
stands. Here, just as tliey t lioujilit t In m- 
selves secure, the spirit of intolerance 
arose and they were actually given notice 
to leave the country uiKler penalty of de- 
struction of property and lile. Brighaiii 
Young conceived tlie idea of going to- 
ward the Pacific Ocean with his people, 
where in territory not under the domin- 
ion of the United Stales lie would eslab- 
lisha new Jerusalem Ibr bis people, wheie 
they might organize and worship God 
without iiindrunce, 

Brigham Young svas a Yankee of the 
Methodist denomination. He was a man 
of extraordinary power, which be wielded 
over his willing sulijects; his manage- 
ment and foresight were marvellous. 
Polygamy had been secretiy introduced 
after liie patriarchal manner, and though 
not kindly received by all, was said to be 
necessary to please God ; besides as all 
new organizations ami colonies get a vast 
deal of their strengtli from the young, 
the begetting of children was ingeniously 
made a religious obligation, and its fail- 
ure was a sore trial to the deluded men 
and woman who lielieved thai their posi- 
tion in heaven depended upon their 
ol)edience of the command, "Be fruitful 
and multiply." 

The western states, into which the 
Mormons first emigrated, were but thinly 
settled. Illinois was but a young state, 
and Missouri was on the t'rinilier. In 
these two states numerous persons resided 
whose presence in the east had tiecome 
intolerable liy violation of the laws or 
other repreheiisibleai,-ts, and they preferred 
to take up new quarters at points more or 
less remote from the scenes of their of- 
fences and escape the punishment they 
merited. Many of these allied them- 
selves with the new organization, prob- 
ably on account of its novelty or to more 
thoroughly (-onceal their identity, con- 
tributing very materially to its success 
prior to and during the exodus to the 
Pacific slope. They were courageous, 
daring, loved adventure, cured not for 
hardsiiip, and a better opportunity for 
demonstration could not have ottered. 

Brigham Young managed these with a 
firmness amounting almost to military 
discipline and with a success wh'cli must 
command respect and excite astonish- 
ment. Without any definite place in 
view, but with faces turned toward the 
setting sun, Brigham Young at the head 
of one hundred and forty-three persons 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT 



20 



and a wagon train, set out from Indepen- 
dence, Missouri, aud adjacent places and 
proceeded over the plains which were 
known only to hunters, traders aud 
Indians, and part of which was an 
almost trackless desert. This was April 
14, 1847. This band experienced trials in 
this expedition which would be horrible 
to relate ; huuger aud thirst affecting 
both human and brute; ludi ns, when 
not on the war path, harrassed them by 
their thieving disposition ; untravelled 
passes in the Rocky Mountains, narrow 
and dangerous trails made by man or 
animals, a journey probably more exten- 
sive than that of the forty years wander- 
ing of the Israelites in the Desert of Sinai 
after the Egyptian captivity, and prob- 
ably fuller of adventure and suffering. 
But with an object in view, fostered with 
a belie, in a divine mission, these people 
nmrmured but little, if at all, and when 
they came within a few days march of 
wiiere Salt Lake City is now located, a 
small aud trusly band was sent ahead, 
who like Caleb and Joshua of old, were 
to spy out the land and make early re- 
port. 

On the 22d of July, Orson Pratt and the 
small company of which he was the head 
from the mountains discovered the valley 
.vhere they subsequently settled. After 
riding through it they returned and re- 
ported to the main body. Two days later 
the whole party entered the valley with 
praise and thanksgiving to God, for here 
they saw the promised land. Dire must 
have been their distress that they should 
have been thus gladdened at this linje; 
the land did not bear grapes of great size, 
for there were no vinesr;, nor did the land 
flow with milk and honey for there were 
neither cattle, flowers nor bees. The land 
was gently sloping toward a river in the 
valley, the valley several miles in width 
and surrounded by high mountains. The 
land was a barren waste, it was a desert 
without shrub or blade of grass, but mul- 
titudes of large black bugs had possession 
of the place. However they felt them- 
selves beyond the reach of their persecu- 
tors and they were happy. 

On the28(h of July they laid off the 
plan of the present city of Salt Lake, two 
niiles square, with streets eight rods wide 
and blocks erf ten acres each, the lines 
running due east and west, north and 
south. This they called "Zion" and pro- 
ceeded to erect such slielter as they could, 
adopted some njeans of defence against 
the Indians, and settled down to stay. 
They prepared the ground and planted 
seed which they had brought with them, 
and by irrigation they eventually got a 
good crop. A large number, among them 
Brigham Young, retraced their steps to 



Missouri to bear glad tidingis nf the New 
('auaaii to their families and friends, and 
take them tliere, where they arrived the 
last of October, 1847, having juiich of the 
same experieiures »)f the first expedition, 
except that the way was known, an(i 
places of extreme dirticulty avoided where 
possible. Brigham Young reluniKl t<i 
Salt Lake the next year, with the re- 
mainder of the people and such others as 
had recently adopted their taith and cast 
their lot amongst then:, when all went 
actively to work to build and cultivate. 
The blocks of ten acres each constituted 
wards, to each of which was assigned an 
elder who became the guardian of and ac- 
countable for all which transpired upon 
it, niaking daily reports to liead(jiiarlers. 
A temporary tabernacle hiul been erected 
(or worship. In order to extend the in- 
fluence and power of the organization set- 
tlements were estal)lislied in adjacent 
parts of the country, but all triluitary to 
liie central power at Salt Lake City. 
Brigham Young apparently designed es- 
tablishing a Mormon kingdom. 

When Brigham Young took jiossession 
of the country "in the name of the Lord" 
the country belonged to Mexico, but in 
March, 1848, the territory which includes 
almost all the pre-ent states and terri- 
tories from the Rocky mountains to the 
Pacific Ocean, was ceded to the United 
States. He, however, paid no attention 
to this, and in March, 1849, tlie Saints 
met in convention and organized "A free 
and independent government by the 
name of ttie state of Deseret." This in- 
cluded nearly all tlie territory west of the 
Rockies. Brigham Young soon after 
sent a delegate to Washington avowedly 
to open negotiations looking to the admis- 
sion of Deseret into the Union; but the 
tone lie assumed, we learn, was as that of 
a representative of a foreign power de- 
manding recognition. To this Congress 
paid no attention, but in 18-50 organized 
the present territory of Utah, making 
Brigham Young governor, and itisstated 
that up to the day of his death, the State 
of Deseret existed de facto, and he its 
governor, and that the said state exists in 
spite of the territorial organization ; that 
Brigham Young as its governor convened 
its Legislature of thirty-nine Mormon 
high priests, the same composing the 
Utah Legislature and which was con- 
vened immediately after the latter's ad- 
journment. The saints adopted the policy 
of seclusion and termed all others than 
Mormons as Gentiles, and regarded them 
with the same distrust and hatred as the 
Jews did the Gentiles of old. 

The gold discovery of California event- 
ually brought ruiners and others among 
them, very ujuch to their disgust. They 



30 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



have beeu growing aud extending their 
power, aud that outrages occurred tbere 
can be no doubt; also flagrant violations 
of the laws aud customs of our country ; 
yet tbey have grown in slreugtb and 
grandeur, and present tbe appearance of 
being law-abiding, which one might wish 
was more regarded in the east. Brighaui 
Young was born in Vermont, June 1st, 
1801, was received iuto the church of the 
Latter Day Saints, April 14th, 1832; was 
elected one of the twelve apostles, Eebru- 
arv 14th, 1835; led the first pioneer jour- 
ney to Salt Lake, April 14th, 1847; led 
the final jouruey of the Saints to Salt 
Lake, May 26th, 'l848, with 1,891 persons 
and over six hundre<l wagons, occupying 
four months in the trip. He was elected 
president of the church December 24ih, 
1847 ; was elected govt rnor of the state of 
Deseret, March 9th, 1849 ; appointed by 
the United States, governor of Utah and 
superintendent of Indian affairs, Septeiu- 
ber 30th, 1850, which he held nearly eight 
years. He continued president of the 
church and governor of Deseret until his 
death, August 29th, 1877. He left seven- 
teen wives, sixteen sons and twenty-eight 
daughters, and was the father of fifty- 
eight children. He was a man who 
weighed nearly two hundred po luds, had 
a (arge head, high forehead, was large 
featured and showed great firmness and 
determination, which latter character- 
istics stamps hiiii as one of the remark- 
able men of his age and without which 
there probably would have been rebellion, 
aud certainly Salt Lake City would have 
beeu nothing as comjiared with ils[)resent 
condition. 

For the better undersliinding I will 
here insert the "Articles of Faith, of the 
Church of Jesus Chrii-t of Latter Day 
Saints." 

1. We believe in God the Eternal 
Father, and in his sou Jesus Christ, and 
in the Holy Ghost. 

2. We believe that men will be punished 
for their own sins, and not for Adam's 
transgression. 

3. We believe that through the atone- 
ment of Clirist, all mankind may he 
saved, by obedience to the laws aud ordi- 
nances of the Gospel. 

4. We believe that the.se ordinances 
are: First, faith in the Lord Jesus Christ; 
second, repentance; third, baptism by 
immersion for the remission of sins; 
fourth, laying on of bauds lor the gift of 
the Holy Ghost. 

5 We believe that a man must be called 
of God by "prophecy and Ity the laying 
on of hands," by those who are in 
authority, to preach the Gospel aud ad- 
minister the ordinances thereof. 

6. We believe iu the same organization 



that existed in the primitive church, viz : 
apostles, prophets, pastors, teachers, evim- 
gelisls, etc.. etc. 

7. We believe in the gift of tongues, 
prophecy, revelation, visions, healing, in- 
lerpretaiou of tongues, etc. 

8. We believe the Bible to be tbe Word 
of God, as far as it is translated correctly. 
We also believe the Book of Mormon to 
be the Word of God. 

9. We believe all that God bns revealed 
and all that He does now reveal, and we 
believe that He will yet reveal many 
great and important things pertaining to 
the Kingdom of God. 

10. We believe in the literal gatherintr 
of Israel, and in the restoration of the Ten 
Tribes. That Zion will be buill upon 
this continent. That Christ will reign 
personally upon the eartii, and that the 
earth will be renewed and receive its par- 
adisical glory. 

11. We claim the privilege of worship- 
ping Almighty God accor(iing to the dic- 
tates of our conscience, and allow all men 
tbe same privilege, let them worship how, 
where or what tluy may. 

12. We believe in being subject to kings, 
presideuts, rulers and magistrates, in 
obeying, honoring aud sustaining the 
law. 

13. We believe in l)eing honest, true, 
chaste, benevolent, virtuous, and in doing- 
good to all men; in<leed we may say that 
we follow the admonition of Paul, "We 
believe all things, we hope all things," 
we have endured many thing.s and hope 
to be able to endure all things. If there 
is anything virtuous, lovely or of good 
report or praiseworthy, we seek after these 
things. . Joseph Smith. 

It will be seen that the Mormous accept 
the Bible and New testament as meaning 
exactly what they say ; they believe in 
the divinity of Christ, his crucifixion to 
redeem the wicked world, the necessity 
of repentance to gain pardon for sin, the 
boly communion, baptism, and in fai^tall 
that is regarded as necessary by the most 
orthodox denomination. How well they 
live up to the arti(des of their faith we 
cannot tell; by the whole country they 
are regarded as monsters of Iniquity. 

They have also adopted the Book of 
Mormon as second only to the Bible. It 
is represented as a translation of the platis 
found by Joseph Smith, being au account 
of the actions of (tocI among the aborigines 
of America who were the de.-ceudants of 
the ten tribes of Israel. The characters 
ou the plates were said to be reformed 
Egyptian and a Urim aud Thumim or 
key found with the plates was u.sed to 
decipher them. The whole, that is, tbe 
the preparation of the plates, was by in- 
spiratiou, their coucealnieut was by 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



■M 



divine commaud, their discovery and 
translation was l^)y divine order and 
revelation to Joseph Sniilh, who was tlie 
ordained instrument of (Jod to accomplish 
this work and disseminate the same 
among all people. The plates were said 
to have been buried 14UU years. An in- 
quiry by us as to where they now are 
elicited the answer that, the aiitjel took 
them away. We believed just so much 
as we pleased and our readers may do the 
sanje. The Book of Mormon is written 
in the style of Chronicles vjf the Bible, 
and is a curious production. 

The Mormons have adojjted a high 
nriesthood of the orders of Aaron and 
Melchizedek ; aiso apostles, elders, priests, 
deacons, etc., with particular duties both 
religious and secular. The intricacies 
of polygamic faith, the sealing of vvunieii to 
men txjth dead and alive, the cerenjonies 
of the endowment house, are such that 
time only could discover them to the un- 
initiated and we do not inttnd to dwell 
upon them here. Polygamy is, however, 
one of the points which excite the coun- 
try against them, though, if they main- 
tain their wives as they lepreseut they do, 
and do not tulerate adultery and f(Muica- 
tioM, they certainly are not so much to be 
condemned. We do not wish to be re- 
garded as their advocates, but state tlie 
conditions as we learned them, and our 
impressions in consequence. 

This synopsis of history and creed is 
derived principally from li)ooks, etc., 
which we obtained in 8alt Lake City and 
from conversations with people there, 
coupled with our own recollections of 
the excitement and reports respecting the 
Mormons more than forty years ago. 
They have made the land grow grapes 
and literally flow with milk and honey ; 
tliey have a land which, when the broad 
tields of grain are viewed, also numerous 
herds of cattle, etc., etc., suggestive of 
comfort and prosperity, will make many, 
envious of them. Missionaries are in var- 
ious parts of the worbi, as Anjerica, 
Europe and even Australia preaching tlie 
doctrines of Mormonism and inviting 
proselytes to the Zion in the Desert beside 
the waters of the Jordan, which eflbrts 
are not wholly fruitless. John Taylor 
succeeded Biigham Young in the presi- 
dency of the church and still remains so. 

Before leaving tSait Lake City we took 
a ride to the Great Salt Lake, twenty 
miles distant by rail. This is the most 
r!^mai kable body of salt water yet discov- 
ered. It is eighty miles long, tifty miles 
wide, and of great depth. It is inter- 
sj)ersed with islands and mountains of 
considerable height. It is surrouiuied by 
tiie Wahsatch and Oquirrh ranges, and is 
■4,200 feel above the ocean. The sallness 



of this lake is remarkable, l)eiug tibout 
24 jier cent, of salt, ami it is related that a 
few years ago it was 'A'.i per cent. Even 
now the shrubs adjacent to the lake lie- 
come covered wiin the cry.-^taiized salt 
from the evaporated water daslied (ui 
them in spray. We obtained at the lake 
one beautilul and vvliite specinien two 
and a half inehes thick with a small twig 
in the centi'c. 'I'lie lake has noouilet ah(i 
is sujiplied by numerous small rivers. 
The eva|>oration is bec(»iniiig less each 
year as the rainfall increa.'^e.^, ami the 
"time is looked for when it will overrun iis 
banks and become less salt. i'he saltiiess 
is ascribed to salt sjirings in its bottom, 
also percolation from the salt plains whicb 
abound in this territory. Salt plains are 
not confined to Utah, for w*- have seen a 
report of a railroad in southern Colorado 
wliich is ballasted with rock salt dug out 
in grading the road bed. Tiie sail and 
alkali plains of this section will become 
more and more dejirived of their saline 
constituents as the rainfall increases and 
make the land more suitable for cultiva- 
tion. 

The Great Salt Lake is a great resort 
for tourists and residents ol Salt Lake 
whogo to bathe in its invigoraling waters, 
which are so buoyant that one cannot 
sink in them. We took a bath and were 
both surprised and delighted. After 
spending a few liours here we look the 
train and returned to Salt Lake City, 
which we left the same afternoon, carry- 
ing pleasant recollections of our visit and 
regrets llial we could not make a longer 
stay in this region. VVearrived at Ogden, 
took supper and changed to cars on the 
Central Pacific Railroad. Ogden is a 
Mormon town of great importance as a 
railroad point and is the connecting point 
ot the U. P. R. R. and the C P. ii. R ; 
also the starling point of the Utah Cen- 
tral and Utah Northern railroad. It is 
located on the Weber River, a short dis- 
tance from the Great Salt Lake. It is 
provided witli car and repair shops and 
many other buildings; iron, coal, and 
other valuable minerals abound in the 
vicinity, making it [)robable that this will 
become a manufacturing [ilace. The town 
is regularly laid out U|pon two levels, con- 
stituting an upper and lower town, the 
upjier part having principally the private 
residences, the lower town being the busi- 
ness part. Tlie Mormons have a temple 
and other denominations their churches. 
Water runs through the streets, as is the 
case iu all these Rocky mountain towns, 
mountain streams supplying the water. 
By this means trees are cultivated and 
gardens jilanted with grass and tlowers. 

After su}»per we entered a sleeper and 
then started again toward the Golden 



32 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



Gate. We pass Corrinue, 809 miles from 
San Fraucisco, the most importaut Gen- 
tile town in tbe territory. At 780 miles 
from San Francisco we reach Promontory 
which is now of only historic importance. 
Here tlie "Great Railroad Wedding" 
took place, which joined the U. P. and 
C. P. railroads and made the transconti- 
nental line complete ; here the la.st spike 
was driven 1085 8 miles from Omaha, May 
19, 1869. The ceremonies were grand and 
impressive. Locomotives with trains of 
invited guests approacl)ed each other from 
eacii Bide of the road and when the last 
spike was driven the forward ones ap- 
proached until their pilots touched and 
persons standing on them reached out and 
shook hands, pouring libations of wine 
upon the track and drinking to tliesuceess 
of the enterprise. Telegraphic operators 
were at the keys to announce the instant 
of completion, and at 2:47 p. m.. Promon- 
tory Point gave signal to the rest of the 
world, wailing anxiously for the word, 
"DONE," followed by the official an- 
nouncement: 

"PROMONTORY SUMMIT, Utah, 
"May, lOih. Thp: last rail is laid! 
"Thp: last spike is dkiven ! The Pa- 

"OIFIC RAILROAD IS COBIPLETED. ThE 
"point of junction is 1086 MILES WEST 

"OFTHE Missouri River, and 690 miles 
"east of Sacramento City. 

"LELAND STANFORD, 
"(yENTRAL Pacific R. R. 
"T C. Durant, ] 

"Sidney Dillon, [Union Pacific R R. 
"John Duff, j 

From what has been said of the charac- 
teristics of the country we have thus far 
passed through it can be readily imagined 
that the building of this road was beset on 
all sides with natural or other obstacles, 
but the part comprised in the Central 
Pacific was attended by extraordinary 
difficulties and cost. All of the material 
for construction, as rails, spikes, tools, 
locomotives and cars, had to be trans- 
ported from New York across the Isthmus 
of Panama or go around Cape Horn to 
reach San Francisco. As the road neared 
completion ten miles a day were laid, 
showing the number of hands and the 
energy displayed. The men who con- 
ceived the idea of a trans-continental rail- 
way were regarded as lunatics, and with 
a knowledge of thecountry through which 
it passes this belief cannot be regarded as 
extraoidiiiary ; but 'tis now a fixed fact 
and this wonderof the 19th century shows 
that the projectors were neither demented 
nor visionary. 

The road follows the northern boundary 
of Great Salt Lake, and at monument we 
got a view of it from the train. Passing 
westward towards Nevada, we course 



along the upper edge of the desert which 
is immediately west and south of the 
Great Salt Lake, and as we approach 
Teconja we come upon a pile of stones in- 
dicating the Nevada state line. 

At Elko, five hundred and fifty-eight 
miles frotn San Francisco we took break- 
fast. This town is of considerable coni- 
mercial and educational importance, the 
state university being located here. Num- 
erous hot springs are here and used large- 
ly by invalids. One, the "Chicken Soup" 
spring, yields water which it is said only 
requires salt, pepper and other seasonimr 
to make the illusion perfect. Could it be 
the outlet of a cauldron of chicken soup 
deep down in the bowels of the earth, as 
it has l)een said that the oil wells of our 
own state have tapped a school of pre-his- 
toric whales? 

Here we strike the Humbohlt River 
and follow it a long distance, going 
through canons and among mountains, 
sometimes on the plain with sage brush 
to vary the monotony. At some of the 
stations, surrounded by desert, we find 
small encanjpments of Shoshone Indians. 
They come to the stations and beg from 
the passengers and show their papooses 
which are i)ouMd to boards or bark and 
are curiosities to travellers who tender 
them a gratuity for the favor. These In- 
dians apparently do nothing but loaf, beg 
and gamble. 

In due time we reach the Humboldt 
Desert, a sandy plain of considerable di- 
meiisn)ns covered with sage brush. We 
pass several stations of slight importance 
and many which are liut side tracks and 
signal points. At Humboldt, four hun- 
dred and twenty-three miles from San 
Francisco we took dinner. This is an 
oasis in tlie<lesert ; here will be seen trees, 
grass, flowers and fountains, which re- 
lieve the eyes made weary by many 
monotonous miles of desert and sage brush 
for these are the first trees, etc., seen simre 
leaving Ogdeii. Mountains and alkali 
plains are on all sides, hut by irrigation, 
this place has been made lovely and ad- 
jacent land made productive of superior 
grain and vegetai)les. The hotel here is 
well appointed and the decorations of the 
grounds are remarkaide. With hose the 
grounds and walks are sprinkled prior to 
the arrival of the train, and passengers 
avail themselves of a stroll nr a rest be- 
neath the trees and bowers, for there is a 
liberal allowance of time for meals and 
rest at these places. Sulphur mines exist 
near by and the shipments are ma<le from 
this place, the native sulphur yielding 
about 7o per cent, pure sulphur. 

Lovelock's, three bund red and forty-one 
miles from San Francisco, is only a side 
track station, telegraph office, store, post- 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



38 



office and a few other buildings ; it is im- 
portant as a grazing pUn*e for cattle ami 
tl)e shipment of hirge quantities of liay 
raised in tlie meadows watered by tlie 
sj)readiug out of the Humboklt River. It 
is said upwards of 40(1, ()()() liead of cattle 
and sheep graze on these meadows. Farm- 
ing is carried on with excellent results 
wliere irrigation is introduced. 

White Plains, three l)uuiired and tliir- 
teen miles from San Francisco, is only a 
side track and is so called because it is in 
tlie midst of a white alkali desert. Here 
salt in fine divisiou exists upon the .sur- 
face and extends many miles in all direc- 
tions, and as tliis is the lowfst point (3,- 
849 feet) on the Central Pacific east of the 
Sierras, the bottom laud is often over- 
flowed in the flood season ; and theijHum- 
boldt'and Carson rivers lose themselves 
in tins sink as it is termed, as there is no 
visibleoutlet. They sink into the sand, and 
the t)alance is established Ijy evaporation 
and absorption. 

Mirage, tliree hundreci and five njiles 
from San Francisco, is but side track 
and is only interesting from tlie fact that 
here this phenomenon is often noticeii 
when the atmospbere is in proper condi- 
tion and travellers are generally on the 
lookout. 'J'his curious optical delusion is 
not infrequent on the desert plains of the 
west, and even on the fertile praiiie, often 
to temporary satisfaction of the weary 
horseman or teamster who, hoj)ing for 
a resting place, is doomed to disappoint- 
ment on flndiug it vanish as he ap- 
proaches. 

At Reno, two hundred and ninety-three 
miles from San Francisco, we take supper. 
This place is situated in a grazing district 
and is also the point from which tourists 
start to visit Lake Tahoe, to the south 
an(i Pyramid Lake on the north. 

Following the Truckee River we soon 
reach Verdi, the first station in Califor- 
nia, making gradual assent into the 
Sierra Nevada Mountains. We enter 
snow sheds at various points, like those 
we have passed through, also through 
some tunnels, pass by Donner Lake high 
up in the mountains, made famous as the 
place where, in the winter of 1846 and '47, 
a company of eighty-two emigrants were 
overtaken by a snow storm and nearly all 
perished. The account is full of horrible 
detail, as cannibalism is charged against 
the survivors. 

Summit, near by, is one hundred and 
ninety-five miles from San Francisco, 7,- 
017 feet above sea level, and is the highest 
point of the road in these mountains. It 
is surrounded by mountains several thou- 
sand feet higher. A fine hotel graces this 
place and many tourists stop over here to 
get views of the magnificent scenery from 



adjacent points. The road winds along 
the mountain sides, showing grand scenes 
from the snow-crowned mountains above 
to the river in the valley far below. The 
road enters American River Canon, 
far up on its sides. Tliis is one of the 
finest views on the Central Pacific Rail- 
road, and is truly grand. From the nar- 
row stream at the bottom in its rocky bed, 
the bare rock sides rise directly, widening 
out and reaching several thousand feet 
above tlie water. To see this canon one 
cannot retire early, as also to see Cape 
Horn, a projecting mountain, aniun/i 
which the road passes, the sides of which 
are so sleep that workmen were let down 
from the top to make foothold for excava- 
tions for the road-bed, li,OU0 feet above the 
river. If moonlight, these can be seen 
and the views are awfully grand ; if not, 
the traveller sleeps, for the train passes 
these points in the night. It was moon- 
light when we passed. 

The train continues on through Sacra- 
mento, the moon was low and we slept, 
but we stopped here on our return trip. 
Arriving at Benicia, thirty-three miles 
from San Francisco, the train leaves terra- 
firma and bodily runs on the ferry boat 
"Solano," the largest of her class afloat, 
but so gradual was t bis that we did not 
appreciate but that we had run intoalarge 
train yard near the water. A little later 
on we were enabled to investigate this 
Leviatliau of the western waters. Her 
length over all is four hundred and 
twenty- four feet, her extreme width is 
one hundred and sixteen feet, her draught 
when- loaded is six feet six inches. She 
has two vertical btam engines with 
sixty inch cylinders and eleven feet 
stroke; the two side wheels are 
thirty feel in diameter, of twenty-four 
paddles each, each paddle having seven- 
teen feet face; each wheel is operated by 
its own engine to ensure easier manage- 
ment of the lioat. There are four rudders 
at each end of the boat, eleven and one 
half feet hnig and five and one half feet 
deep. There are four railway tracks on 
deck which will accommodate forty-eight 
freight cars and and locomotive or twenty- 
four passenger cars. Benicia is a town of 
about l.oOO inlial)itants and is lamous for 
a large agricultural implement factory 
besides other industries ; it is an admir- 
able shipping point and it is said that at 
one time it was the rival of San Francisco 
but this must have been very early. The 
waters of theSacramento and San Joaquin 
rivers pass by it thrf)ugh the Benicia 
Strait which our monster boat crossed, 
and passing the straits of Carijuinez and 
along the eastern shore of vSan Pablo and 
San Francisco bays we reach Oakland, 
where we alight and on one of the largest 



34 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



ferry boats we ever saw, we were transport- 
ed across the bay aud lauded in San Fran- 
cisco at 8 a. ni. We immediately went to 
the Russ Hotel wlien after a wash, break- 
fast aud rest until afternoon, we started 
for the post oflrtce, took a ride in tlie cable 
cars and after supper retired. The next 
day was Sunday and we went to the 
Howard street Methodist Episcopal 
church and lieard a delightful sermon by 
Bishop Fowler who had been a passenger 
on the train with us. After lunch we 
took a train for the Cliff House and got 
our tirst view of the Pacific Ocean with 
its thousands of miles of i'X[)aiise. 

San Francisco is situated on the western 
shore of the bay at the upi)erend of a nar- 
row peninsula extending between the 
bay and Pacific Ocean. It is the pt)rt of 
entry on the west coast of tlie United 
States, and has one of the finest harljors 
in the world. It was named after San 
Francisco de Assisi, and was first a 
Catholic Mission dedicated to the above 
named padre, and founded October 9th, 
1776. With the characteristic sluggish- 
ness of the old Spaniartis little improve- 
ment was made and little known of it 
until the early part of the present century' 
*vhen foreigners began to arrive in small 
uumbirsand the place grew somewhat 
as well as llie neighboring country. But 
it remained for the period after the cession 
to the United States and the discovery of 
gold in 1848 to produce the change, and 
from a village it has grown to the dimen- 
sions of a city of nearly 250, 000 inhabi- 
tants witli all the modern improvements. 
The l)uildings for business are large and 
imposing, substantial and convenient. 
The hotels are numerous and of great size, 
notably the Palace Hotel which is the 
largest in the world. It has four fronts, 
occupying a whole block and covers two 
and one-fourth acres, it is one hundred 
and twenty feet high and has an immense 
number of bay windows on each side 
which takes away the impression which 
its great height and size would otherwise 
make, it is two hundred and seventy-five 
by three hundred and fifty feet on the 
sides, and contains seven hundred and 
flfly-tive rooms for guests alone ; it has 
an immense court-yard which is covered 
by a sky light where carriages enter and 
depart with the visitors and guests of the 
house. This hotel has a world wide rep- 
utation and must beseen to beaj)i)reciated. 
The furniture and other appoinments 
with the accomodations are all upon the 
same grand scale as the size of the build- 
ing. The Baldwin, (Jrand Hotel, and 
Lick House are marvels of grandtur and 
size only less than the Palace, while the 
Kuss House is commodious, grand, lux- 
urious, convenient and reasonable, ex- 



tending along the front of an entire block, 
attendants efficient and courteous, not 
hanging around for "tips" so extensively 
practiced elsewhere and a bane to hotel 
life; the policy of the management seems 
to be to charge its patrons a fair price and 
pay a fair price to^ the servants, and re- 
quiring that the former shall be served 
properly without extra charge. We were 
surprised and gratified at the moderate 
rales of charge compared with the accom- 
Hiodalions which were equal to the best 
hotels in Philadelphia and New York. 
We can recommend the Russ House to 
the most exacting. The churches are 
numerous and very fine, all denomina- 
tions are represented, even to that of the 
heatlien ('hinee who lias his Joss House. 
The places of amusement are the Grand 
Opera House, California Theatre, Bald- 
win Theatre, Bush Street Tlieatre, and 
many others where grand and comic 
operas are rendered and the legitimate 
drama and variety performances attract 
the people. As there is here a large float- 
ing pojiulation more places of amuseujent 
are supported than in most places of equal 
size. The Post Office and (Custom Build- 
ing and Mint are in keeping with the im- 
portance of the plaee and dignity of the 
Uuiteil Slates. The business iuid com- 
merce are simply enormous. The trade 
with the East Indies, China, Japan, 
Australia, Sandwich Islands, Alaska, 
Western South Auierica and Mexico, 
centre at this point, and the forest of 
masts iij the harbor fly the flags of all 
nations. A visit to the wharves showed 
them to be most substantial, and exten- 
sive, having great docking space and 
covered in many instam^es with large 
Iniildings for storage and other purposes. 
The dry and floating docks are very large, 
capable of receiving the largest vessels 
which enter the harbor. Who that has 
read the newspapers for some years back 
has not read of the "Pacific iMail?" The 
Pacific Mail Steamship Company which 
has its beadcjuarteis in San Francisco, 
has a fleet ol six first class steamers which 
go between tliis port and (Jbina, Japan, 
Sandwich Islanils and Australia. W^e 
can take a little pride in tliese vessels as 
the most if not all of them were built 
along our own Delaware River. The 
newspaper m)tii'es of the Pacific Mail 
liave Lieen with reference to the stocks, 
etc., of ti.e company and the various ap- 
plications to {'ongress for sultsidies. The 
Oriental and Occitlental Steamship Coui- 
pany also send steamers to China and 
Japan. 

Of the diflerent parks theOolden Gate 
Park is most extensive, it is three aud a 
half miles long and half a mile wide, con- 
taining 1,019 acres, much of which has 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



3') 



been reclaimed from the sand-hills which 
are to be found in all directions ; the dec- 
orations of the grounds, tlie walks, drives, 
fountains, lakes, and conservatories are 
most complete and grand, everything in 
fact to make it the most elegant place of 
its kind in the west. We enjoyed our 
visit to it very much. The Woodward 
Gardens are almost unique in this coun- 
try. They resemble the Gardens of Ac- 
climatization in Paris, fine large conser- 
vatories, marine and other aquaria, seal 
tanks, cages of animals and birds, cases of 
stuffed birds, antiquities, etc., in other 
words it is a garden of natural sciences. 
The grounds are beautifully laid out, with 
asphalt walks, ornamental trees, shrubs, 
and flow'er beds, beautiful statuary dis- 
posed here and there. An art gallery, 
music hall, sltating rink and restau- 
rant contribute to the entertainment and 
refreshment of visitors. This little para- 
dise was commeueed in 18(50 by Mr. R. B. 
Woodward a gentlenian of wealth, (now 
deceased) who expended vast sums to es- 
tablish this great and useful attra(;tiou to 
the people of San Francisco. ;No stranger 
should miss the oj)portunity of visiting it 
while here, as it is easy of access and only 
a sliort distance from the centre of tlie 
city. 

To the visitor the first view of San 
Francisco from Oakland and the ferry 
boat is peculiar and surprising ; here and 
thei'e are lofty eminences with buildings 
upon them and upon landing it is observed 
tljat some of the streets continue directly 
up their sides to the tops, the grade being 
such that horses with vehicles can scarcely 
ascend. Tliese eminences are sand-hill's 
and are covered with some of the finest 
private residences in the city. Tne diffi- 
culties of approach are however reduced 
to a minimum since the cable cars have 
been introduced and among the most in- 
teresting street sights to the stranger is to 
see the cars ascending and descending the 
grades, one car acting as a counter bal 
ance to the oiher and as these roads con- 
tinue over the hills they are much patron- 
ized and develop the country beyond. 
The cable roads are very extensively 
used, the cars are most substantially con- 
structed and are the most couifortable of 
all the public conveyances, beingspacious 
and exceedingly clean. The five cable 
lines extend for matjy miles over the city 
and suburbs and constitute the most ad- 
mirable .system we ever saw and this is 
tlie testimotiy of all visitors. In the 
northern part of the city is Telegraph 
Hill whicli is very steep and reached by- 
cable cars. A view from here is extensive. 
The city below, the bay on the east, tiie 
Gold Horn on the north, and sand-hills 
and Pacific Ocean on the west. A pavilion 



for refresliments is at the top which 
makes it an objective point of an atter- 
noon or evening, and see the ships going 
out and coming in, and the setting sun. 
Don't miss it ! 

Of tne streets of San Francisco the citi- 
zens are Justly proud. Tliey are wide, 
well paved and vt-ry clean ; the winds, 
which are important means of keeping 
them clean, also conlril)Ute from time 
to time to making them dirty by 
the fine sand which they cany 
from the outside of the city and deposit 
over everything ; and who has not heard 
of the "sand lots" and "Dennis Kearney" 
the sand lot orator, that t'oiuentor of dis- 
cord, riot and rebellion, with their conse- 
quences, lire, murder and robliery ? 
Happily liis socialistic and communistic 
sentiments are little encouraged. Kear- 
ney and his "sand lots" are part of this 
city. 

What will suri>rise the visitor among 
the many things new and strange will be 
to learn if he does not see, that many of 
the private residences, and among them 
the most palatial and costly, are but 
wooden buildings. One reason has been 
assigned for this that, earthquake shocks 
are frequently felt but rart'ly of any 
severity, and if these liuildings were of 
brick or stone they would more readily 
tumble down, but as the l)uildings for 
business are of brick, stone, or iron, the 
earthquake excuse cannot a|)ply. A fire 
among these WM)oden buildengs would be 
most disastrous. 

By cal)le car we visited Laurel Hill 
cemetery, perhaps one of the finest here, 
elegantly laid out and decorated with 
many monumental works of art and less 
pretentious markings of the resting places 
of the dead. Atrip to the Cliff House 
should never be missed, as tiie view is 
almost unique. It is situated on a cliff 
on Point Lobos, on the southern side of 
the Pacific entrance to the Golden Gate, 
and is seven miles from San Francisco. 
It is reached by a steam railway. This 
house has a broad veranda overlooking 
the Pacific Ocean on the west. It is a 
great resort for tlie people of San Fran- 
cisco, who, besides taking the fresh 
breezes from the ocean, also are interested 
in observing theseals which climb around 
on the rocks near the shore. Tlie Seal 
Rocks are three in number, of consid- 
erable size and very high, a few hundred 
feet from the shore, and which have been 
taken possession of by a colony of seals 
and sea-lions, which congregate here in 
thousands. They are quite fearless, play 
many antics on the rocks and in the 
water, bark, and amuse the people very 
much. If they should happen to be dis- 
turbed they take to the water very quickly 



36 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



by rolling and tumbliug over each other 
iu a most awkward aud ludicrous iriau- 
uer uutil the water is reached. If the 
way of escape is cut oft" aud they are iu- 
terfered with, we were told that they be- 
come very fierce aud use their sliarp teeth 
in a very dangerous way. They are not 
of the Alaska variety, but become very 
large, reaching twelve feet sometimes. 
These animals are protected by law from 
molestation so that the colony and amuse- 
ment are likely to be perpetual uuless 
there should be a foreign invasion. We 
sometimes see specimens of these crea- 
tures iu the menageries aud Zoo Gardens 
iu the east. 

The view of the setting sun from this 
point is supremely grand. The vessels of 
all kinds and sizes are seen almost con- 
stantly going in and coming out of the 
Golden Gate because of the vast amount 
of commerce between the countries of 
Asia, the islands of the Pacific, the west 
coast of America, and San Francisco. 
The Pacific Ocean, so called from its 
placid waters, was somewhat ruffled by a 
stiff breeze. A road passes from tiie Ciiff" 
House down to tlie water's edge. We de- 
.scended and dipjted our hands aud bathed 
our faces in the waters of theocean, which 
more than three hundred years ago was 
discovered aud taken possession of by 
Vasco Nunez de Balboa in the name of 
the King of Spain ; and since the days of 
Magellan's voyage it has been a field of 
discovery, conquest, annexation by the 
civilized nations of the earth, and has 
seen the instillation of civilizatiou in 
many lands, while at the same time the 
natives are melting away, soon to be in 
oblivion. W^hat food for the contempla- 
tive mind. 

To return from the Cliff House at this 
sea.son of the year is far from being easy 
because of the vast crowds. The passen- 
gers are crowded into a room of just the 
capacity of the train; the room is then 
closed against all others. When all is 
ready the people are released and enter 
the train, which starts off, and another 
train comes for its portion. This is done 
to insure safety and prevent over crowd- 
ing, but once in the crowd to get tickets 
and get into the room their is no return. 
It is like driving cattle into a narrow 
ally in which they cannot turn or go 
back preparatory to entering the slaugh- 
ter house. Probably 10,0U0 people were 
there the day we made our visit. As the 
whole peninsula seems to be nothing but 
sand hills, the winds are shifting them 
constantly and the little railroad has to be 
dug out from time to tinje by men in con- 
stant employ for that purpose. 

The stranger in San Francisco rarely 
leaves wiihout a visit to Chinatown, 



where the colony of 6,000 or more Ciiinese 
are to be found. It is only a short distance 
from the centre of business and so unlike 
all the rest that one miylit suppisp him- 
self in China. Here are to be found the 
Celestials of the Flowery Kingdom with 
their pig-tails hanging down their backs, 
thesign of tlieirsubju^alion to the Tartars, 
living and doing business, dressing and oc- 
cupying housesprecisely as if it .vas a part 
of Canton. The arclii teeture, however, is 
different, with here and there an attempt 
at a re[)roduction of their Inmie style. 
Frequently persons take guid»s to go 
through tliis section, but recognizing the 
general peaceful disposition of tiiese peo- 
ple wherever found iu eastern (titles, we 
felt equal to an attempt to penetrate it by 
ourselves. So taking a cable car we were 
soon landed in their midst aiui saunter- 
ing here and there visited their shops, 
markets, etc. We were as much alone as 
if we had been in the heart of the Chinese 
Eujpire. The sliops are all very snjall, 
sometimes several different tradesmen 
occupying the same room, the goods often 
of a very tawdry kind. The signs are 
many, suspended from the doors and 
windows, of various bright colors and in- 
scribed in the peculiar language of these 
people. And we are told they are full of 
self praise aud bombast with a generous 
sprinkling of reference to their gods, etc., 
reminding one of the blatant high-cock- 
alorum in the circus whose hand bills 
and posters describe the most wonderful 
animals and mar^'elous performances ; or 
the disinterested (?) jialent medicine ven- 
der who from the stieet corners proclaims 
the excellence of his goods and of his sole 
desire to serve his fellow man in distress. 

The people carry on the various kinds 
of business from banker, broker, lawyer, 
physician, and the various mercantile 
and manufacluriug enterprises, provision 
dealer, laborer, laundry, to domestic ser- 
vant in any capacity among the whites, 
etc. Where they work for themselves it 
is in their native way, but where they are 
employed by others, they follow direc- 
tions to the letter as if they were machines 
set to do certain work in a certain way, 
and it being inji)()ssible to do otherwise. 
The story of the sailor in China whose 
pantaloons having become well worn and 
had been patched, went to a Chinese 
tailor to get a new pair to be made just 
like the worn ones, and so faithfully did 
the tailor follow directions that the new 
garment was patched precisely like the 
old one, is an illustration of the above 
fact. 

Their markets were peculiar in many 
ways ; articles were thert* of which we 
had never seen the like before aud did 
not know how they could be used, and 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



37 



our knowledge of Chinese was so limited 
that we did not inquire, "John, washee, 
washee?" not being appropriate to a 
knowledge of provisions. Fish and vege- 
tables are their favorites, but we did not 
see strings or" "rats and mice, and puppies 
for )iies." We did not visit their joss 
House or places for idols tliough all pri- 
vate houses have their own idols as well. 
Here Paganism is practiced in the heart 
of a civilized and we hope christian com- 
munity. Their theatres got none of our 
attention, as our time was limited and 
besides it is not always proper for ladies; 
parties of gentlemen frequently go. and 
curious ladies sometimes. 

Of the vices of these people we know 
nothing; even had we witnessed any we 
should not desire to relate them. Suffice 
it that John Chinaman copies somewhat 
front his christian (?) brother, and the 
christian brother adopts some of the 
worst of hf^athen Jolin's fieculiariiies. 
Many of these people are huddled to- 
iretber in a manner tliat is almost beyond 
belief; from cellars to garrets, every 
apartment, even sub cellars and excava 
tions under 'he streets are occupied by 
them, as bad nr worse than the Aleutian 
Islanders or Kamschatdales. In some of 
the subterranean rooms, lepers, tiltby and 
loathsome, are said to be confined from 
the light of day and the sight of man, 
and where they labor until the eyes be- 
come sightless, the bands and feet drop 
off or melt away under this great oriental 
scourire. 

Desirous of procuring some memento 
of our visit, we entered several establish- 
ments where gold ornaments are made, 
and upon inquiring the price of an article 
a small pair of scales was immediately 
produced and the object weighed, then 
the peculiar calculating niacbine of these 
people was brought into requisition and 
in a few moments the price was named, 
from which there was no deviation. The 
calculating machine is a frame the size of 
a school-boy's slate with wires upon 
which are strung balls, and by sliding 
these l)alls according to the Chinese way, 
the calculation is made. We at last saw 
a rintr, the workmanship of which was 
jieculiar, having tish, crabs, scorpions, 
etc., in high relief, and a purchase was 
made by the assistance of a Chinaman 
present who understood a little Enj^lish. 
We had been assured that any article of 
jewelry purchased from these people we 
could rely upon as genuine, and we saw 
them at work about their little furnaces, 
melting the material prep'ratory to mak- 
ing the article which is generally made 
of nearly pure gold, between 22 and 24 
carats fine While in these places small 
crowds of Chinese gathered about the 



doors and inside, apparently viewing us 
as curiosities and desirous of knowing 
our business among them ; but they were 
well behaved and courteous. 

We left this quarter highly pleased and 
feeling that more time would be an ad- 
vantage. Most of these Chinese came 
here under contract and under the aus- 
pices of S' veral companies for mining, 
railroad building, et(!., and that in case 
of death their bones and bodies are to be 
returned to China. Women are also im- 
ported in like manner under contract and 
generally for immoral purpose.s. This 
species of slavery has beet] in great meas- 
ure checked by an act of Congress |)re- 
venting the landing of any Chinaman 
who is to become a resicbnt of this coun- 
try. In spite of the opposition to them 
they have done much as laborers to make 
CaliCornia a success, as they have gener- 
ally been tractable capable of .sustaining 
considerable hardship, uncomplaining, 
requiring but little food and demand- 
ing but light wages. All these have i)een 
the causes of the prejudice against them, 
and those who have cried out the loudest 
in denouncing them have themselves 
been forei<rners. 

We made a tour of the banking and 
broker district of the city and saw in the 
windows iio\(] coins of all nations, gold 
quartz and gold in dust, grains and nug- 
gets We never saw so much gold as 
was dis|)layed in the :^'indows, arranged 
in trays, saucers, bottles, etc., according 
to the state it is in. This has been gath- 
ered in trade by individuals in the min- 
ing regions where coin is not current and 
the ])rices of goods rated at a certain 
weight's wortn of dust, which is weighed 
at the time the purchase is made. It is 
said that in these regions a miner going 
into a bar room for a drink would put 
down a buckskin bag of dust from which 
the barkeeper would weigh out his pay 
and return the bag less the amount. Gold 
gathered in this way, as well as the 
miner's accumulations, is carried to San 
Francisco and other places and sold to 
brokers atid others. The uncoined gold 
whether in quartz or dust, etc., is all sold 
b\^ weight according to the assay of the 
specin.en. In a jewelry store w^e made a few 
purchases of gold quartz set in ornaments 
as souvenirs of the trip to the El Dorado, 
the land of gold, and besides the gold 
quartz is by no means so plenty as a few 
years ago and will grow more rare unless 
new deposits are found. Jewelry is rather 
profusely worn, as might be inferred 
when it can be obtained in all conditions 
to suit the fancy of the wearer. 

Many of the greatest discoveries in the 
world have been the result of the merest 
accident, the value of which was not 



38 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



always immediately apparent to the dis- 
coverer, but tlie credit of observiuj^: ttie 
result of an accident or unintentional cir- 
cumstance wlieu man is benetitted either 
physically or mentally must be accorded, 
as but for his act, his generation at least 
might not have reaped the good results, 
but be postponed for a succeeding one. 
Some discoveries are inevitable, the time 
being the only consideration. The dis- 
covery of gold in California was an acci- 
dent and was inevitable. In a mill race 
which had just had the water turned int'> 
it, yellow particles were noticed which 
excited enough curiosity to cause an ex- 
amination. One piece was put into a 
kettle of soap which was over a tire, and 
after twenty-four hours it was taken out 
brighter than when put in, when a fur- 
ther test proved the material to be gold. 

This discovery was made by James W. 
Marshall, January' 19th, 1848, at Coloma, 
on the American River. Captain Sutter 
was the contractor for building the mill 
race and saw-mill for Marshall. Not with 
the speed of the electric current, but with 
a remarkable celerity did the news of this 
discovery l)ecome noised abroad, the world 
heard tiie wtory, and within a year began 
that wonderful invasion l)y people from 
all parts of the world to seek adventure 
and make a fortune, and the "Forty- 
niners" are as proud of their early con- 
nectiot) with tlie gold excitement of that 
period as if they were of noble birth. 
The stories of successes and losses, of glee 
and despair, are not for us to write of; we 
remember the time when every one dis- 
cussed the prospects and probabilities. 
A way ward or adventurous son was per- 
liaps permitted to try his fortune in the 
ho[)e that the severe experience would 
tame his restless disposition ; the wicked 
and rough, always in the advance guard, 
made up a large number; gentle, care- 
fully reared and kind-hearted were not 
few; men broken in fortune; such as 
these filled every ship, an<l thty were not 
few, starling on the long journey "around 
the Horn," or crossing the Isthmus of 
Panama, destined for San Francisco and 
the mines. Many never returned to tell 
their story and many forever disappeared, 
their fate suspected but never discovered. 
In a little more than two years the popu- 
lation of ('.ilifornia had so increased that 
it was admitted into the Union as a state, 
and its growth since has been one of con- 
tinued i)rosperitj' and population which 
is marvellous. 

Captain Sutter participated in the glory 
of this discovery and the early mining 
efforts, and had amassed some wealth, 
but he died in Pennsylvania, a very few 
years ago, and if our memory is correct 
he was iu comparative poverty. Mining, 



at first reckless and wasteful has been re- 
duced to a system, discarded places and 
material are worked over, mountains 
have been washed down and valleys and 
meadows tilled by the debris, and water- 
courses turned to the detriment of other 
property, so that state laws have been 
enacted to regulate it. 

Coin, and particularly gold, is the cur- 
rency of the realm, t)ut green-backs now 
pass current. The introduction of the 
cent has been combatted and successfully 
resisted ; cents are not seen except as 
curiosities and can only be used in the 
post-ofRces. A nickel (five cent piece) is 
the smallest coin used. No change is 
ever returned where a purchase is made 
of less value than five cents or the mul- 
tiple of five, as a purchase amounting to 
thirty-seven cents would have to be paid 
with forty cents, this is of course to the 
advantage of the dealer, but as this prac-' 
tice is universal it equalizes itself in the 
community. Dimes, which are coined 
at our mint, we call "ten-cent pieces." " 

When asking the price ot goods of any 
kind and the value is twenty-five cents, 
the answer will be "two-bits," and four, 
six and eight bits for fifty and seventy- 
five cents and one dollar respectively, a 
"bit" representing twelve and one-half 
cents. How this antiquated method of 
reckoning should be continued iu this 
new country with so many new people 
from different parts of the country and 
world, is hard to understand. We in the 
east have long since discarded it, though 
we still remember the "levy" or "eleven- 
penny bit" and the "fip" or "fip penny 
bit" representing twelve and one-half and 
six and one-fourth cents respectively. 
The younger generation know nothing 
about them. Gold notes were largely 
used in California during the war of the 
Rebellion, but greenbacks received no 
encouragement. 

To pass over the fruits would be a gross 
neglect. Caleb and Joshua were never in 
California or they would never have been 
al)le to carry their load back without the 
assistance of a freight train or telegraph 
for assistance from the home guard. Cali- 
fornia has a re|)utation for the finest and 
largest fruits, and while we did not see 
apples, pears, oranges, etc., as big as 
pum|)kins, nor juimpkins so large that 
we have read that their insides were hol- 
lowed out and fed to the cattle, and that 
the shell then served for a barn to house 
the cattle in, yet we did see the profusion 
and quality of peaches, plums, apricots, 
figs, etc., which, except the first, are 
nearly all rarities with us. They were 
placed before us on the hotel table in 
every form ; they were for sale on tlie 
street at most moderate prices at so much 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



39 



per pound (for they do not sell by meas- 
ure here); we were rekictant to leave he- 
hiud these luscious products. All tropi- 
cal and semi-tropical fruits are raised in 
California. Olives, tij^s, dates, ji:rapes, 
oranges, lemons, etc., recjuiring a 
warm temperature are cultivated here iu 
plantations, and their reputation for 
quality is unrivallrd. 

The cliujate of San Fl'aucisco is gener- 
ally mild, rarely getting very hot or very 
cold. The average temperature for the 
year is about 54° Farenheit. The winter 
is the rainy season, from November to 
May, and thf» rain is rarely excessive, 
generally falling at night. From May to 
November there is almost no rain, but 
every ujorning the atmosphere is hazy 
and sometimes foggy, which deposits a 
certain amount of moisture equal to dew. 
The day we went to the Clifi House the 
wind was strong and quite cold, men car- 
ried or wore their overcoats in the street, 
ladies dressed in furs and other heavy 
robes, wliile those who drove had heavy 
fur lap coverings and blankets^. Very 
light sumnjer dresses are rarelj' worn 
either by men or women. In the winter 
we are told that the grass is green and the 
flowers bloom ; frosL is rare and very 
light, while snow is almost never seen. 

There are many persons living in San 
Francisco and vicinity who have never 
seen snow. We subsequently met a young 
man who took part of the tour with us 
who hoped when he got among the moun- 
tains to see some snow; he had been 
reared a few miles from San Francisco. 
The mildness of climate just mentioned 
does not extend all over California, but 
the coast is generally temperate from the 
trade winds and warm ocean currents 
which course along, but back in the 
mountains the winters are rigorous, and 
snow falls to the de{)th we only know of 
by reading, but in the southern moun- 
tains the snow melts out quickly ; in the 
north it is not so soon removed. Our 
limit of time having expired we conclud- 
ed to pack up and "move on" with Yose- 
mite Valley as the objective point, so hav- 
ing our luggagechecked to Sacramento, we 
left San Francisco at 3:30 p. m., crossed tlie 
bay to Oakland, to take the train for Me- 
dara on the Southern Pacific Railroad. 

Oakland, so called in consequence of 
the clumps of oak trees found in the vi- 
cinity, constitutes a suburb of San Fran- 
cisco and is the residence of many busi- 
ness men in the latter city. It contains 
car shops and other buildings appropriate 
to the terminus of a great railroad. There 
are also churches, hotels, banks, factories, 
etc., iu such numbers, size and style, as 
to proclaim it a place of great enterprise 
and wealth, and prospectively a city of 



great importance in itself as veil as to 
San Francisco, and relatively the same as 
Jersey City is to New York. The shij)- 
j)ing is extensive and capable of unre- 
strained growth, possessing many advan- 
tages over the metropolis. Here is the 
longest wooden pier in the world, and in- 
cluding mole and trestle is three miles 
long, accommodating eleven railway 
tracks ; part has been filled in with rock 
and earth to the distance of nearly two 
miles. The stranger is siruck with won- 
der at this pier extending so far straight 
out into the bay. At tiie western end is 
one of the largest and finest depots we 
have been in, and is for the overland and 
other traffic. Here tlie tVrry l){)ats from 
San Fiaiicisco land, anil both tlie depot 
and the boats are so constructed that the 
upfter deck of the boats is reached di 
rectly from the second story of the formei' 
where the passenger's waiting rooms are 
located, passengers passing from the 
lower deck to the wharf, there is no con- 
fusion. A freight boat starts from \\\v 
old wharf near by which can accommo- 
date twenty loaded freightcarsand twenty 
cattle cars at one time. 

Following the eastern shore of San 
Francisco Bay, San Pablo Bay, Straits of 
Carquinez for thirty-thr':'e miles, we pass 
Beniciaand Suisun Bay into which Sacra- 
mento and San Joaquin rivers euipty, and 
at Antideu we turn southeasterly to 
Lathrop where we take supper, then re- 
tiring to our sleeping lierth we coniinue 
southward iu the Valley of the San 
Joaijuin River and at 2:30 a. m. arrive at 
Medara, one hundred and seventy-three 
miles from San Francisco, wliere our car 
was detached and run on a side track. 
Here we remained until morning, when 
leaving the car we took breakfast, and at 
6 a. m. left in a six horse stage with twelve 
Ijassengers for Wa- Wo-Na. We were soon 
miles away from Medara coursing over a 
level barren plain and at eighteen miles the 
first change of horses was made ; we then 
approach the foot hills of the Sierra Neva- 
das, ascend among them, winding around 
cliffs, approach the edges of precipices 
which on the narrow road, seems like 
courting destruction, the wheels of the 
stage often not having six inches to spare 
from the edge, yet accidents are exceed- 
ingly rare. The horses tear along at a 
rapid and apparently reckless rate, but 
we were informed that a slower pace 
would be more dangerous for the 
curves, which are many and short, would 
cause them to become entangled, the 
wheels to lock under the stage and a pitch 
of animal and vehicle would be ahnost 
inevitable. To ride with the driver is 
quite a privilege and it was accorded to 
me part of the way ; the driver and the 



40 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



horses are well acquainted, the former 
knows what they can do and the horses 
know what is expected of them and 
when. 

The driver handles the reins and 
wields his long whip with wonderful dex- 
terity and precision ; he even has little 
pebbles which, with great accuracy he 
throws at the forward hoises striking 
them on the ears, etc., when they are be- 
yond the reach of his whip, or when he 
merely wishes to slightly remind them of 
liis presence. Six changes of horses were 
made during this day and at Wa-Wo Na, 
formerly called "Clark's," we st()i)ped for 
the night, having made seventy miles. 
The road we parsed over is good for this 
section, but is very rough as almost all 
mountain roads must be, and we were 
high up in the Sierras. It was not always 
possible to keep our seats or prevent our 
heads from striking the top of the stage 
when a wheel struck a stone pretty vig- 
orously ; indeed it is a little trying on 
thin and bald-headed persons, and we 
would recommend anyone contemplating 
this trip to make appropriate provisions 
for the occasion, should lie be deticieut in 
head covering and acZif/jase. In addition 
to the roughness of the road, in this dry 
season the dust rises in clouds enveloping 
the stage and everything in it. We made 
an endeavor at each opportunity to get 
out of the stage and wash off this accu- 
mulation which makes every person the 
Stime color as his neighbor. Faces and 
clothes were of the same shade. We were 
told to dust ourselves oti' on the same 
principle as the residents t)f Pittsburg and 
similar sooty places, blow- ofF the specs of 
smut which are continually rained through 
the atmosphere, as to otherwise interfere 
with them would be to become more 
soiled and streaked. We, however, took 
our chancis and washed to get the worst 
oft as well as to be refreshed. 

At the dinner station where the horses 
are also changed we met the stage coming 
from Wa-W<;-Na ; at the change stations 
there is little else than the tew necessary 
buildings or shanties for the accommoda- 
tion of horses, atteudaiits, etc. ; the horses 
are ready harnessed when the stage comes 
up, so that they can be immediately 
hitched to the stage when the others are 
detached, and so little time is lost ; water- 
ing stations are placed at appropriate dis- 
tances aiid are forlorn in their loneliness, 
for excepting the stages few vehicles or 
persons use this road. At the change 
stations the male passengers frequently 
get out to get the kinks out of their legs, 
but were generally in their places when 
"All ready" was called, save one, a young 
gentleman before mentioned as never 
having seen snow; he would start off ou 



a brisk trot and so continue in advance of 
the stage for a couple of miles, cutting ofl" 
curves when informed such was possible, 
and when tired would be taken aboard. 
As we got up higher in the mountains 
the precipices beside the road became 
more appaling, and the trees became 
larger and larger ; as we advanced pines 
from three to eight feet in diameter and 
with stems })erfectly straight and rising 
to a height of between one hundred antl 
two hundred feet, redwoods and other 
varieties in great numbers, and we meas- 
ured the precipices by the number 
of tree lengths as they stood on the 
mountain side below us. 

At Wa-Wo-Na is a large hotel of 
frame, very commodious and first class 
for here; there is a hirge pLit of ground 
in front, which being iirigaled has a de- 
lightful bed of grass a pleasant relief alter 
a liry and «lusty journey ; an art gallery 
with some tine oil paintings furnishes an 
attraction to the place, aUo a saw-ndll; 
these constitute the settlement. After 
shaking off the dust we washed, took 
supper, and then to bed to rest our bodies, 
our eyes and our brains. Tbe next morn- 
ing we again set out, now on a down 
grade, winding in and out on tlie moun- 
tain sides, passing over narrow ledges, 
near frightful declivities, many hundieds 
of feet down, making one feel uncom- 
fortable to look over and tiiink that 
l)arely more than the width of the tire of 
the wheel separates him from an almost 
certain death should the wheel slip over. 
Still the horses tear along. At some 
points the ledge is so narrow tliat by 
means of heavy timbers and rock the 
road is extended to a sufficient width. So 
we proceed until we arrive at Insi)iration 
Point some eight miles from the valley 
and thiee thousand feet above it. 

Inspiration Point is practically at the 
entrance of Yoseniile Valley and high up 
on its edge with mountains slill higher on 
one side of the road while on the other is 
a precipice nearly three- fourths of a mile 
down which is enough to inspire awe, 
and if bold enough to approach its edge 
you return quickly with a shudder; 
however this is not the inspiration, but 
at this high point we get a first view of 
the Yosemite which burstssuddenly upon 
the gazer. To see this picture of loveli- 
ness, wonder and grandeur inspires one 
with reverence at the majesty of the 
Creator who willed this to be so; and pro- 
found silence or an exclamation of "Oh ! 
Oh!" is probably the only disturbance 
of that rapture which impresses and in- 
spires the stranger. The stage stoppod 
some minutes and gave us a good view 
from this place. Immediately before you, 
but in the distance you see Bridal Veil 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



41 



Fall.YosemiteFall, Cataract Fall, Cloud's 
Rest and Catliedral Spires. We tbeu 
started down what is little more than a 
a steep trail, tlie horses going at a rattling 
pace and at each turn we saw more and 
more of the valley as we descend into the 
basin, until at 12:80 p. m. we were landed 
at Cook's Hole! in the valley and imme- 
diately in front oi the Yosemite Fall. 
Upon landing we were immediaiely at- 
tacketl by sundry attaches wIjo captured 
our luggage and then canje at us with 
broonjs to remove the dirt we had gath- 
ered u\>, before we went into the house. 
After a wash we took dinner and then 
went out to see the glories of this wonder- 
ful place. 

Tiie Yosemite Valley is a huge cleft in 
the Sierra Nevada mountains and runs 
transversely across the range; it is about 
seven miles long and from one-half to one 
and a half miles wide ; its bottom is 
about four thousand feet above sea level 
and is walled in by mountains of bare 
and solid rock ranging from one thou- 
sand to five thousand feet higli ; the 
Merced River flows throughout it, while 
trees, grass and flowers extend frt)m side 
to side. The characteristic features of 
this valley are the great height of the 
almost perpendicular walls, the number 
and gieat heiglit of the waterfalls, the 
small amount of debris or broken rock 
scattered lliroughout, making it quite 
easy for visitors lo go aruuud on foot. The 
walls have various prominent parts pro- 
jecting above the re.^1, anil according to 
certain forms and positions they have re- 
ceived names to designate them. These 
uaujes are Indian, Spanish and Elnglish, 
ihe foruier lieing according to the pecu- 
liarilie.s and traditions of that people 
which we need not mention here ; the 
same a[)plies to the names of the water- 
falls. 

El Capitan, the great chief or captain 
of the valley, is a projecting mass of solid 
rock 2,973 feet high ; this rock it is said, 
can be seen from the San Joaquin Valley; 
it stands to the left of the entrance by the 
Mariposa trail. Next but at some dis- 
tance from El Capitan is the Cathedral 
Rock, 2,660 feet high, suriuounted by two 
pinnaclesofrock extending 800 feet higher. 
Next follow tlie Three Biothers, a ujass 
of rock with three slightly inclined peaks 
the tallest of which is 3,830 feet above the 
valley. Next we liave the Sentinel Rock 
shaped somewhat like an obelisk, rising 
3,270 feet. Farther on we find the North 
Dome, the name suggesting somewhat its 
shape, rising 3,568 feet above the valley. 
The South Dotue still more majestic rises 
to 4,737 feet above the valley and has one 
vertical face of over 1500 feet from the sum- 
mit, while the lower part is nearly so. 



The Cap of Liberty is 4,600 feet high, and 
Star King 5,600 feet. About a mile east 
of South Dome is Glacier Point 3,700 feet 
above the valley, with Cloud's Rest on 
the south wall, rising to (1,450 feet, the 
highest [)oint here and 10,500 feet above 
sea level. We approached the bases of a 
few of these wonderful masses of granite 
and were impressed with wonder and ad 
miration ; they are too great for the mind 
to appreciate their immensity in a short 
time; time only could develop that 
particular feeling, fortliey grow with each 
iiour sj)ent in their presence. Those 
w Inch we did not go directly to were dis- 
tinctly visible from one poiiit or another 
in the valley where we (lid go. 

There are trails reacl)iiig to Cloud's 
Rest, Gl. icier Point and other places, and 
horses and guides are obtainable ft)r that 
purpose, but to ride around the mountain 
sides on the most dangerous and nar- 
lowest of trails and at heights, whert- 
when viewed from the bottom of the val- 
ley, the hoists and rid* rs appear little 
larger than flies, did not seem a strong 
enough inducement, for none but the 
clearlieaded and brave-heai ted we weie 
assured would dare to undertake the trip ; 
but the views to be obtained froui these 
elevated [joints are wonderfully grand and 
sublime, and unecjualed so far as known ; 
we were told our visit would not be com- 
plete without undertaking it. The whole 
valley lies at your feet and beyond are 
the rocky Sierras. Think of being on a 
trail of three feet wide or less (and three 
feet is regarded as a good width) on a rock 
shelf 1000 feel or more above the valley, 
where tlie rock is almost perpendicular, 
and where a horse cannot turn around or 
the rider dismount, where, whatever the 
number, none could render assistance, as 
for instance if y.)U got dizzy or had a 
faint, and there'will be no surprise that 
we did not venture, though our determi- 
nation was arrived ai with re'uctance. 
Many places are absolutely inaccessible, at 
leastthey have not yet been reached, but 
some of the doujes, rocks ami spires are 
visited, but their tops cannot be scaled 
without imperiling life, for the summits 
are naught but bare, unbroken rock which 
lichen could hardly hold fast upon and a 
fly had better rest content with a bald 
head than atteiupt to settle upon one of 
these. The South Dome has been scaled 
and some enterprising individual (1 might 
say fool-hardy as well) has anchored at 
various points 975 feet of rope to enable 
any ambitious person to hold on to and 
occomplish the daring feat. Were there 
elegant stairs and strong hand rail it 
would be no trifling matter to climb so 
high. A woman has been one of the few 
who have reached the top of South Dome. 



42 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



The falls are scarcely less awe iuspiriug 
than tbe ro(!ks. Bridal Veil has a clear 
fall of G30 feet, striking upou a luass of 
rocks from which it is agaiu precipitated 
300 feet perpendicular making 980 feet 
from the top. This is one of the most 
beautiful in the valley, and as the water 
descends its edges swayed and broken by 
the winds resemble the serpent roctkets 
which we formerly saw on 4th of July 
evenings; theunlirokeu body swaysgently 
like a tliin tissue moved by wind. 

The Yosemite Fall is also divided, but 
in three parts instead of two as in the 
Bridal Veil ; the first part is a clear fall 
of nearly 1600 feet, striking a ledge ol 
rock, over which it flows in a series of 
small cascades for 626 feet more, and then 
400 feet in perpendicular to the bottom. 
This is said to be the highest waterfall in 
the world for an equal body of water ; the 
water where it comes over the top is esti- 
mated at twenty feet, wide, two feet deep 
and falling at the rate of 500,000 cubic feet 
an hour. This body of water which starts 
almost thread-like in appearance as it 
comes mor*' into view, has the peculiar 
swaying that is so beautiful in the Bridal 
Veii, and as these two falls are the only 
ones in the valley possessing this feature, 
it is probably due to the perpendicular 
fall or their situation in relation to pre- 
vailing winds. The mind njay picture 
but the eye must see to appreciate these 
beautiful falls. No description ever can 
convey the con.plete idea. Vernal Fall 
is a l)eauliful little fall of 350 feet (when 
We speak so familiarly of tbousainis of 
feet, 350teet become ahuost conleujptible.) 
Niagara Falls are only about 160 feet high, 
but the volume of water is infinitely 
greater. Nevada Fall, over 600 feet, is 
veritably grand. Other falls are seen 
here and there, but they are as threads. 
The falls are supplied by the melting 
snows in the mountains beyond, and dur- 
ing the mouths of May and June are se-n 
to their best advantage. As September 
comes on the water decreases, the falls 
become lessened in volume and a few of 
the smaller ones dry up. Their water 
njakes up the body of the Merced River 
which runs through the valley. 

An episode connected with our visit I 
will here relate. We were wandering 
about iu search of whatever might inter- 
est, when we came upon a little cabin 
sheltered by trees, vines, etc., and seeing 
no one about we made bold to trespass, 
but not to enter the house. A pair of 
antlers hung outside and we tliought 
what a nice souvenir of the occasion they 
would be if we could obtain ihenj ; while 
pondering upon tiie probaiiility of becom- 
ing their possessor the door of the cabin 
opened and there to our surprise stood 



not a grizzly bear nor a wild Indian, but 
a kindly faced man, about sixty-tive years 
of age, dressed as a gentleman would be 
in any city and about to take a walk. 
His kindly voice reassured us and we ex- 
pressed our desire to purchase the antlers. 
"Money," he said "could not buy them, 
they should be ours for the taking." We 
protested, but he was equally firm, con- 
senting at last to receive a book if we 
thought enough of it to send him one. 
We were introduced into his cabin, saw 
many evidences of retinenjent and educa- 
tion and learned that this was Mr. T. M. 
Hutchiugs the superintendent of the 
valley. Here in the valley be remains 
year in and year out, cut off from all the 
world in winter except by telephone, and 
in the summer by the incoming of tourists 
and the United States mail. His history 
is one of much sadness ; he is alone and 
he seems to love to be alone to comniune 
with himself, with nature and with God. 
A pleasant interchange of letters has 
since been had with him which inakes us 
witsh we knew him more intimately, He 
is highly educated, carries on an exten- 
sive eorrespondeiice with all parts of the 
world. We saw in his hand a bundle of 
over forty letters which he was alK)Ut to 
deposit in tbe mail bag, they being ans- 
wers to inciuiries respecting the Yosemite 
Valley. lie loves to be busy nt)t merely 
for the pleasure of occupation, but to di- 
vert his mi lid from those heart clouds 
which oppress him. 

When the winter snows fill the road- 
ways, trails, and even the valley some- 
times to a depth of fifteen or twenty feet 
be employs his leisure time in making 
snow shoes for man and horse. The 
snow shoes for man are made of three- 
fourih inch pieces of wood, from five to six 
feet long and six inches wide, turned up 
in front and provided with straps to hold 
the feet. Then with a pole the wearer 
slides over the snow, the pole serving to 
propel or retard according as to whether 
he goes up or down an incline, also to 
steady him on the level. Snow shoes for 
horses will strike one as very comical if 
not absurd, but we saw some he had 
made. The shoe consists of a block of 
wood aliout tifteeen inches ^(^uare and 
two inches thick, with a shoe fitted in 
the top and so arranged as to clasp the 
horse's hoof; the animal soon learns to 
use these awkward contrivances so that 
they niay not fall. Snow shoes are re- 
quired bt cause early in the spring season 
it becomes necessary to oi)en the roads, 
clear away the snow and even tunnelling 
when otherwise too deep, so that entrance 
to the valley can be ma<le from the out- 
side world, besides the sooner the road is 
opened the sooner the visitors enter, 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



43 



lience the greater profit, and too as the 
country aloug the road from Medara is as 
yet but slightly productive, all the pro- 
visions used along the road and in the 
valley must be carried in. Only a few 
persons remain in the valley during the 
winter, hence is very lonely except to the 
seeker after solitude. 

The Yosenibte Valley was lirst entered 
by white lueu in 184S and afterwards in 
ISoO and 1852 Mr. Hutchings was the 
second white man wlio entered it, and if 
we are correctly informed, he lias been a 
resident ever "since. He had a small 
tiotel for the accommodation of the few 
visitors in its early days when it was 
more of a venture than now. It was sev- 
eral years after its discovery befor. its 
wonders were published to the world 
since which time it has grown in popu- 
larity, and by those vlio have seen many 
natural wonders in all parts of the world 
it is said that the Yoseinite Valley stands 
alone and unrivalled of its kind. There 
were some English tourists in our party 
in the coach, who had just come irom 
India and China and their exi)ressions 
were most enthusiastic. 

The Valley is now an established part 
of the State and is governed by Commis- 
sioners appointed by state authority ; 
this will preserve it forever from vandal- 
ism though not much could be done to- 
wards demolishing or damaging its 
granite walls, yet some enterprising ad- 
vertising agent might venture to paint 
the name and virtues of some wonderful 
remedy as "Mexican Mustang Liniment" 
particularly useful for those who visiting 
the valley, desire instantaneous relief 
from bruises received iu' the stage or from 
tumbles on the rocks ; or of some wonder- 
ful soap compound particulaily useful for 
travellers to remove the dust and dirt 
after the return from the Valley ; or that 
"John VVauamaker s largest retail store 
in America, can supply all liu' necessary 
wants in his line for such a journey and 
have plenty left to re[)lace all things torn, 
worn out, or lost, on the return," upon 
the dome of El Capitau or other almost 
inaccessil)le point, for visitors to view 
with their glasses. 

Mirror Lake is a small but beautiful 
sheet of water, in which, when the water 
is still, can be seen- the reflectijn of the 
surrounding trees and mountains; there 
is nothing remarkable in this, the sanje 
is often seen in stid streams and lakes 
elsewhere. With our antlers (which 
came from a deer shot in the valley), a 
couple of sticks for canes and a few otlier 
trifles, we climbed into the stage and 
going bach the way we came, stopped at 
Inspiration Point, turned to take a last 
look at the wonderful, beautiful, and 



flowery Yosemite Valley which we may 
never see again. I neglected to say that 
wild flowers of great beauty and variety 
exist in profusion and the floral botanist 
would be in his glory to spend a month 
here among them. An attempt to press a 
few proved a failure, for we were not pro- 
vided with materials for that purpose. At 
noon time we arrived at Wa-Wo-Na and 
after dinner we again took the stage and 
a nine mile drive brouglit us io tht- 
famous Mariposa Grove of Big Trees. 

The road from Medara to the Yosemite 
Valley passes among trees which in the 
mountains attain enormous i»roportions, 
pines and cedars particularly, the former 
ranging from three to twenty feet in 
diameter. It is no wonder then that at 
flrst we were not so much impressed 
with the bigness of the Big Redwoods, 
besides they stand among trees of im- 
mense size. But by standing beside them 
walking about ihem, goiiig into and 
through them we gradually felt how 
much greater tliese were than any we had 
ever seen. Did they stand alone in some 
op(-n Held their magnitude would be dis- 
{)layed to better advaotage;perha)is ihe.'-iir- 
rouiiding trees have been the means of 
preserving these mammoth specimens 
from destruction by the violent storms 
which prevail in these high altitudes at 
certain seasons. Forest fires do much to- 
ward destroying the young ones in other 
parts. Many of these monarchs ot the 
lorest are much injured by tire at their 
bases which is regarded as remarkable, for 
there are no evidences of having attacked 
other trees adjacent and it is said that 
probably these fires occurred hundreds of 
years ago. One of the trees has a road- 
way cut through its base, and under it we 
pa.ssed in our six horse coach, as it is on 
the line of the road into H.e grove. 
Whether the road was built purposely to 
thus go through it or whether it acted as 
an olistruetion and was tunnelled in con- 
sequence, we cannot say. One fallen tree 
has a stairway leading to the upper side 
which has a platform built upon it. 
Almost all the fallen trees are more oi 

ess broken l)ecause the wo(;d is quite 
brittle, in the few instances where they 
are not broken it is supposed they fell 
when there was much snow in llie moun- 
tain. A tree in the Calaveras Grove has 
been felled in order to determine if pos- 
sible its age, and required the labor of five 
men for twenty-two days using long 
augurs to penetrate towards the heart; 
thus weakened it still stood so plumt) that 
even wedging was required to toppl^^ it 
over. It is computed that one of the Big 
Trees would yield over 500,000 teet of one 
iiich sawed lumber. A section of one of 
the Big Trees from the Fresno Group was 



44 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



exhibited at the Centennial Exposition, 
and it is to be regretted tliat it was not 
purcliased for tbe Fairniouiit Park. There 
is also another section at the New Orleans 
Exposition and is pictured iu Harper's 
Weekly. 

Tlie trees of the Calaveras and Mariposa 
Groups are numbered and many are 
named. In tlie hitter group we saw the 
Grizzly Giaut. Grant, Garfield, Three 
Sisters, Three Brothers, Wa-Wo Na, etc. 
This last has the roadway cut through it. 
The stagf stopped under it and we pro- 
cured (what an old salt would call) a 
"splinter" from it by the use of an axe. 
Much as we are opposed to violation of 
the law, and depreciate vandalism, yet 
our American relic-hunting disposition 
could not be quelled. 

The largest of these trees measure from 
50 to 91.6 feet in circutntereuce at tht-ir 
bases, but two of the largest have 
been so much burned that their original 
measure of over 100 feet is very much les- 
sened ; one of these, the Gr izzy Giant, we 
measured with a string as high as we 
could reach above tlie ground and it was 
82 feet. The highest Big Tree is in the 
Calaveras Group, 325 feet high ; the high- 
est in the Mariposa Gr()up is 272 leet and 
the Grizzly Giant is the oldest thus far 
found in any grcjup. Tliese trees are per- 
fectly straight and devoid of branches 
until about cue hundred feet from the 
ground and we saw branches ^aid to 
be six feet in diameter which we verified 
by comparing ihem witii the fallen trees. 
Further destruction of tiiis grove will be 
prevented so far as man is eoneerned as the 
United Slates maiie a grant of two square 
miles containing this group to the State ot 
California as trustee, for a public park. 

The Big Trees are only found in the 
Sierra Nevadas in California, und at an 
average elevation of between 4,000 and 
5,000 teet above the sea, in groups in a 
belt C)f aljout 200 ndles ; whether knovvn 
to white men before the cessioPi of this 
country to the United Stales, we tlo not 
know, but it w;is not until about 1850 that 
the world was apprised of their existence. 

The Big Trees are known to bcjtanists 
as the /S'e^zfoza GUjantea, named after Se- 
quo-yah a half breed Cherokee Indian 
who was born in the last century, and 
was a man of remarkable intelligence, 
but we did not learn that he had any- 
thing to do with tlie discovery or descrip- 
tion of the giants. The (Sfef/uoia Semper- 
virens is u very near relation of the Oigan 
tea and is generally iu its company, 
though it has a most extensive range, 
covering hundreds of miles of mointain 
and very numerous. They belong to the 
Conifera or cone bearing trees, and re- 
semble the cyprees; the wood is red like 



cedar and is hence called the Redwood, 
light in weigiit, rather brittle, and resists 
decay with astonising power. The bark 
is of a reddish brown color, quite porous 
and soujewhat fibrous, is from twelve to 
twenty inches thick, the corns are small 
(from one and three-fourth to two and a 
half inches long) growing in large num- 
bers in clusters; they are hard and com- 
pact, containing many .seeds whicli are 
strikingly small when compared with the 
size of the tree, one-fourth inch long and 
one-sixteenth inch wide and as thin as 
paper. 

While the Sequoia Gigantea exists in 
large numbers in the various groves the 
giants are but a comparatively speaking, 
small part. There are many in their 
"youthful vigoi'' of ten feet in diameter, 
supposed to be about 500 .\eais old. 'Tis 
like children among their grandsires. 
Tlie ag':'S of the largest trees are estimated 
at l-etween 1200 and 2000; what an age 
for a living thing! Nations have died, 
races become extinct, discoveries made, 
revolutions religious and civil, civiliza- 
tion advancing, requiring centuries, and 
yet these survive and with reasonable 
])rospect of centuries yet going over their 
crowns, before they pass the way of all 
living things. Oilier trees of great size 
exist among these great ones, as sugar 
pines, spruce, fir, bastard cedar (which is 
very like the Sequoia) and others. The 
most of these become very large, the 
sugar \nuyi^, [pinus Iwinbertini,) growing 
to 250 feet or more in height and from 
10to20 feetin diameter, theconesof which 
are 12 to 20 inches in length and from 4 
to six inches in diameter. We gathered 
up several, sixteen inches long. They re- 
semble the cciuimon pine cone of the east 
except their great size ; they aresupposed 
by many to come from the giant trees. 
This may arise from the fact that they 
are found in those groves and also that it 
would be a demonstration of the seeming 
fitness of things. These pines, etc., are 
fitting associates of scarcely more at- 
tractive giants. 

We purchased at a little cabin iu the 
grove (there being no other houses) two 
of the large cones encased in strips of 
redwood, as souvenirs. These with other 
cones, large and small, gathered from the 
ground we finished our visit, and with our 
comjiany left in ihe stage for Wa-Wo-Na, 
took supper and the next moruing com- 
menced our all day ride to Medara. A pe- 
culiar tree of small size, generally little 
more than a shrub with a leaf something 
like the mountain laurel, found iu the Yose- 
tnile Valley. In the mountains and along 
the roadside is the Manzanita, reuiark- 
able for its crookedness, little more than 
a foot of straight wood iu auy part. It is 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



45 



of exceeding toughness and hardines, 
being almost of the density of box-wood. 
It almost resists the saw and axe. We 
procured with great ditticulty a few 
pieces ; an endeavor to procure a straight 
piece for a cane proved fruitles, and an 
ofler to the stage driver of a fee if he 
would cut a stick for us was declined ; se- 
curing an ax, we tried for ourselves and 
while fairly successful in getting some 
pieces it was, however, with great difft- 
culty. When the trunks are moderately 
thick, canes are sometimes sawed from 
them, but neccessarily having a cross 
grain in some part, they readily break. 
\\'e saw such a den)onstration in the 
hands of one of our company. The man- 
zaunita grows in bunches as if a number 
came from a common root, and rarely 
reach ten feet high. It produces a berry, 
said to be eatable, but we did not try ; 
the bark is of a dark red color, which, 
when the tree is cut at this season, peels 
otTin thin scales, revealing a green under- 
layer which also peels ; when it is cut in 
winter the barl? adheres very closely and 
makes the wood very attractive. 

The journey to Medara was made with- 
out special incident except to hear the ex- 
pressions of surprise and satisfaction 
made by several of our party who were 
subjects of John Bull. Tiiey had traveled 
n)ucli and England was great, but they 
had nothing at home, nor had they seen 
abroad anything whicli would compare 
with what they had just left. The Big 
Trees may have been alive, though very 
young when Julius Csesar invaded 
Britain, and were centuries old when 
William the Conqueror first set foot on 
Britisli soil. These remarks were veiy 
pleasant to our American ears. 

On the return froui as well as on the 
way to the Valley we passed under and 
near to a large flume which extends from 
Medara up into the mountains a distance 
of seventy miles ; for a considerable 
number of miles it follows the stage road 
very closely. This flume is built like a 
trough in a pig-sty and is about six feet 
across the top ; in some places it is niarly 
on a level with tlie road and at others 
where it crosses gullies it is supported on 
trestles nearly one hundred feet high. It 
is used to carry lumber from tiie saw 
mills in tiie mountains down to Medara. 
It has sundry stations along its course 
where it widens somewhat and where 
persons are stationed with telegraphic 
and tele[)honic instruments, so as to 
observe and announce accidents or other 
circumstances when they occur, just after 
the manner of a signal station on a rail- 
way line. The water, besides being used 
for running lumber is also used for irriga 
tion by persons who purchase the right 



from the flume owners. The water runs 
with great swiflne.ssas might besupposed 
wliere the grade is so great and the con- 
ductor so smooth, as it must be to prevent 
jamming of lumber. Occasionally trips 
are taken from tlie mountains in tri- 
angular-shaped boats made for the pur- 
pose, l)ut this amusement is not only 
dangerous, but a wetting is an almost 
sure result, while the transit is of almost 
lightning-like rapidity. A trip had been 
made down this flume a day or two 
before we got there. A comical adventure 
was related some time ago in the New 
York Tribune by H. J. Ramsdell, who in 
company with Messrs. Flood and Fair, 
the California millionaires, and otliers, 
had been visiting the mines near Virginia 
City, Nevada, and a flume ride was 
I)roposed and accepted. He says : "I 
thought that if men worth $2o,00(),()(l() or 
$30,OUU,000 apiece could afl'ord to risk their 
lives I could afford to risk mine, which 
wasnot worth half as much." Theaverage 
time made was thirty miles an hour, and 
after a fifteen mile ride in thirty-rtve 
minutes, he, like the rest, was all wet, 
and the other impression that they 
received can be better appreciated l)y the 
roilowing : "Flood said he would not 
make the trip again for the whole Consol- 
idated Virginia Mine. 

This day's ride was made in a teujpera- 
ture greater than we ever experienced 
and when we arrived at Mtdara in llie 
evening we were informed that the ther- 
mometer liad registered llHdegiees Fah- 
renheit. After supper, with our horns, 
canes, sticks, etc., we got into a sleeping 
car in waiting and retired to dream of 
great rocks and huge treeM but we had no 
night-mares ; later in the night the train 
from Southern California hooked us on 
and away we s[)ed up the Han Joaquin 
Valley to Lathrop. As daylight appeared 
our eyes opened on a country which was 
uuder cultivation, wheat being the prin- 
cipal production, tliere being fields of it 
for miles and still standing ; few houses 
were to be seen anywhere and they are 
the merest shanties. The grass, wliich is 
green in the winter and spring becomes 
naturally cured in the summer and is cut 
for hay ; the rainfall is light and where 
it fails irrigation is resorted to, artesian 
wells and streams supplied with wind- 
pumps furnishing the water. Trees are 
few except on the mountain slopes. The 
San Joaquin Valley lies between the 
Sierra Nevada and the coast ranges of 
mountains, with a width of from twenty 
to one hundred and fifty miles, and ex- 
tends from Lathrop southward two liun- 
dred and fifty miles. The soil is a close 
loam which, under the summer sun, 
opens in great cracks and of considerable 



46 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



depth. The stations along the road are 
all small, being side tracks, telegraph 
stations and occasionally villages. 

We arrive at Lathrop at 7 a. m., take 
our breakfast and change cars for Sacra- 
mento, which we reached at 10:30 a. m. 
August 11th. Lathrop is a railroad town 
of great importance, it being on one of 
the routes from Sacramento to San Fran- 
cisco, also being at the entrance of the 
San Joaquin Valley, traversed by the 
Southern Pacific Railroad, by which the 
Yosemite and Southern California is 
reached. 

Stockton, a short distance above Lath- 
rop, is on very low level ground and is 
an active business place ; the railroad 
passes to the east of it, a deep slough 
navigable for large steamers and other 
vessels connecting witli the San Joaquin 
river, enables it to carry on considerable 
shipping trade with San Francisco. The 
country hereabouts is mostly under culti- 
vation, wheat being the staple product, 
though other things, as vegetables, are 
raised, but no corn. We do not remem- 
ber having had green corn at any of the 
hotels west of Ogdeu. Irrigation is 
entirely depended on and wind-pumps 
are so numerous in this section of Cali- 
fornia that at one railway station (Lodi) 
near here we counted nearly two hun- 
dred in the few minutes of the stop of the 
tiaiu and it would be safe to say there are 
thousands in its vicinity. Stockton gets 
its water from an artesian well. 

Sacramento, which we passed in the 
night on our way to San Francisco, is 
located on the Sacramento river, ninety 
miles from San Francisco, and is the 
capital of the state. It is elegantly laid 
out, the streets are broad and regular, 
shaded by magnificent shade trees, 
making in many places almost an arcade. 
The business houses are mostly of brick, 
while the residences from cottages to 
mansions are of wood, the redwood, the 
sequoia semjiervirens being used, and we 
felt it a pity that these magnificent forest 
trees should be used for su('h purpose, not 
withstanding their profusion. The gar- 
dens and lawns are well ke{)t and we saw 
oranges, tigs, limes and tropical plants 
growing in rare profusion. The city is 
lighted with gas and electricity ; water 
works which take the water from the 
Sacramento river, churches, college halls, 
schools, courthouse, capitol and other 
buildings constitute the principal public 
edilices ; the ca[)itol, built of granite and 
t)rick, is very extensive and cost $2,500,- 
000. The architecture resembles some- 
what the (;apitol at Washington and is 
surmounted by the Temple of Liberty 
and a bronze statue representing Califor- 
nia ; the interior is finished in elegant 



style and the Californians are justly 
proud of the whole. It is built in the 
centre of a block of ground upon an ele- 
vation which is terraced, the whole sur- 
rounded by an ornamental railing ; the 
grounds are ornamented with shade trees 
and flowers and are very carefully kept. 
The car shops of the Central Pacific 
Railroad are located here, for Sacramento 
is the beginning of the road. Flour mills, 
carriage, wagon and furniture factories 
are numerous, but this city is probably 
best known for its manufacture of the 
famous California Blankets, those lovely, 
thick, soft and wooly covers which are 
luxurious and unlike any others manu- 
factured in the world that we are familiar 
with in the east. The wool crop of Cali- 
fornia is one of the largest, finest and 
best in the world. 

Sacramento is also famous for its pack- 
ing and shipment of California fruits. 
We made a visit to one of the largest 
packing establishments in the city and 
there found a large number of Chinamen 
employed in sorting fruit, wrapping each 
specimen in paper, as oranges and lemons 
are wrapped which come to us from the 
south. These are carefully packed in 
small boxes for shipment. An inquiry 
was made as to why Chinamen were em- 
ployed and the answer was that they 
followed directions and samples more 
closely than whites and made no devia- 
tion, which insured uniformity of size 
and quality of each package. They 
handle the fruit with the dexterity of an 
expert handling and packing eggs. 

The hotels are numerous and very large 
the size of the city. Our stay at the 
"Western" was exceedingly satisfactory 
as to accommodations, table and cost. 
The sidewalks are all plank, and a 
peculiarity of the buildings near the 
street is that they have porticos extend- 
ing from the second story out to the curb 
line, thus making a cover over the pave- 
ment, and as they are quite continuous 
they protect the pedestrian when the 
summer's sun is at meridian, for it some- 
limes get.s very hot in this place ; al.so 
fr>)m the showers in the rainy season. 

Every town of any size on the Pacific 
(Joast lias its (.Munese quarter, and Sacra- 
mento is no exception, where large 
numbers of these people live, transact 
business, or work in various parts of the 
city for other people. They are large 
dealers in fruits and vegetables, which 
they sell by weight and not by peck or 
busliel. This is universal throughout the 
west and not peculiar to Chinamen, 
They are |)ackers, as before noted, and 
also act as laundrymen, cooks and cham- 
ber—shall I say njaids or men ? in public 
and private houses, in which capacities 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



47 



they are said to be very reliable. 

Agricultural Park, witb its race course, 
is to be seen from the road when ap- 
proaching the city from the east, and it is 
held in high esteem here in the fair and 
racing season. The State p]xposition 
Building is a large tine structure and is 
permanent. 

The ground upon which Sacramento 
stands, as well as surrounding it, is very 
low and marshy, but its "moors and 
fens" which are filled with festering 
malaria have been so changed by filling 
in, draining, etc., that the place has been 
made habitable and tht> work of reclaim- 
ing is still going on, to the great advan- 
tage of the business and other interests of 
the citj'. He who has been long absent 
from the city would not recognize many 
places on his return. In the early days 
of the city the streets during certain 
seasons, from rain, overflow and retained 
moisture, would become so miry as to 
constitute a dangerous slough or sink for 
all who ventured, whether man or beast, 
and we have seen it stated that on one 
occasion a humane man posted a sign 
near one particularly bad place, which 
bore this significant legend : 

"This street is impassable 
Not even jacliassable." 

This man, if dead, should have a mon- 
ument erected to his memory for this 
good deed by Mr. Henry Bergh's Society 
for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals ■ 
from the proceeds of the legacies his 
society has received ; for anything but 
purely selfish demonstrations was rare in 
tiie early days of California. 

The shipi^ing is quite extensive, as the 
Sacramento river is navigable for large 
vessels. Much fruit is grown in the vSac- 
ramento, Napa, and other adjacant val- 
leys, the vineyards and orchards are 
extensive and it is said the wine interests 
alone promise to make California one of 
the richest states in the Union. The 
wine is pure, cheap and i)lentiful ; the 
choicest grapes, whicn in the east fetch 
from 50 cents to $1 per pound, are here 
sold for 10 cents. The more decidedly 
tropical fruits are raised in Southern 
California. Thus California outrivals 
any other state in the possibilities of its 
its culture and it is prophesied that its 
gold interests will eclipse the past pro- 
ductions of that precious metal. 

The railroad depot is large and most 
complete. It is only excelled by that at 
Oakland, which is the finest on the 
Pacific coast. Two days spent in Sacra- 
mento gave us a fair idea of the city and 
we turned our faces homeward to leave 
this wonderland behind. 

California is a state which includes all 
kinds of weather and season within its 



boundaries. The southern part is hot, 
with little or no rain in its desert country, 
and winter is unknown ; farther up to- 
wards the middle there is rain at certain 
seasons, but in no great (juantity, and the 
land is fairly tillable by irrigation ; spring 
and summer are perpetual and the moun- 
tains may be covered with snow ; further 
north there is the rainy season which 
corresponds with our winter ; the atmos- 
phere at this season is chilly, snow is ex- 
ceedingly rare and plants are always 
green ; still farther north the coast line is 
moderately warm, while in the mountains 
the winters are rigorous; the sheltered 
valleys are, however, habitable and verj' 
productive. 

We did not get into the extreme north 
or south. California is too big and has 
too njuch of interest to be seen in a short 
stay like ours; even our ride of nearly 
700 miles through it showed us but a 
small part. We hope this may not be 
our last visit and if so fortunate we shall 
vi^it the great vinyards, orchards and 
groves to the north and the south, com- 
pared with which, what we did see is 
quite insignificant. 

Getting tnto a sleeper, by the light of 
a waning moon we saw a little of the 
country east of Sacramento, but retiring 
• we awoke next morning at 5 o'clock at 
Truckee, 119 miles from Sacramento. 
Truckee 209 miles from San Francisco is 
a railroiid division station, having a large 
round-house and some repair shops. It 
also has a large lumber trade; the popu- 
lation, ahout 2000, has a large number of 
Chinamen. It is also a mountain resort 
in sunjmer time and is the point from 
which stages start to visit several beauti- 
ful lakes a few miles away. The hunting 
and fishing make the locality very at- 
tractive. In winter the snow storms are 
sometimes of enormous proportions and 
the need of snow sheds in these moun- 
tains becomes very evident, forty to fifty 
feet of snow sometimes covering them. 

We soon passed the Nevada line and 
at Reno we took breakfast; continuing 
over the line we came, we crossed into 
Utah at 1:45 a. m., Aug. 15, and at 7:30 a. 
m.-took breakfast at Ogden. Nevada is a 
state erected a few years ago out of the 
territory of Utah, by cutting it through 
in the r'niddle from north to south ; the 
eastern half still remains as Utah Terri- 
tory. 

Nevada is composed of mountains and 
valleys, furnishing grazing ground for 
cattle and sheep ; forests of timber more 
or less stunted for want of water; sage- 
brush, alkali and sandy deserts which 
absorbs all the water which comes from 
the mountains. Some few lakes exist ; 
but as a mining state it stands almost un- 



48 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



rivalled, gold, silver, lead, iron, sulphur, 
autimony, coal aud salt existing in vast 
quantities, aud the output has been euor- 
tuous ; mining is still in its infancy. Car- 
sou and Virginia Cities are the great 
mining points of this state. The great 
Consolidated Virginia Mine and the Sutro 
Tunnel are near the latter place. 

From Ogden we proceeded eastward 
through the wonderful Echo and Weber 
Canons which we were again enabled to 
see, not more effectively, however, than 
wheu we came out, for by the courtesy of 
the conductor on that occasion we saw 
much that would have otherwise passed 
without our notice. He called our atten- 
tion to them as we came to them, took us 
to the most advantageous parts of the 
train for observation, sometimes on the 
phitforms, where we could get the advan- 
tage of a view of the jjreat heights in the 
narrow passes, etc. We have uot got his 
name or we should here mention it with 
our thanks.. Train men on the western 
roads are generally co irteous so far as our 
observation goes, and it is a great com- 
fort to find it so. The remainder of the 
road to Cheyenne was passed in daylight 
and the interesting points ha^e already 
been noted. Having crossed Utah and 
Wyoming with llieir hills, dest-rt and 
sage brush, at Pine Bluffs, 478 miles from 
Omaha, we pass into Nel)rask:i, which 
presents nothing materially different in 
the landscape until we reach the Platte 
River, where we see hort^es, cattle and 
sheep in vast lierds, for the Platte Valley 
is well provided with grass, and ranches 
exist on all sides. No l>uil(iings are to be 
seen except at the railway stations and 
such others as are necessary for the herd- 
ers of stock. 

Oii the way we pass through Sidney, 
412 miles from Omaha. It hits a round 
house and small rep;iir shops, and a pop- 
ulation of about 1,000. The next place of 
importance is North Platte, 291 miles 
from Omaha, and is said to be a thriving 
town of 2000 inhabitants. The largest 
round house and repair shops on tiie 
road are at this place ; it is also noted for 
being the residence of Hon. Wm F. Cody 
(Buffalo Bill). His house was pointed 
out to us. North Platte is also a great 
centre for the shipment of catt'e from the 
ranches in Nebraska; also for those 
driven up from Texas. Here we took 
supper and soon after retired. 

On waking in the morniug we found 
we had passed through a raiu storm, 
which bad been pretty severe, tlu)Ujih it 
did uot disturb us. Tlie railroad follows 
the South Platte River to near 
Nortii Platte, wheie it continues along 
the Platte to within a few miles of 
Omaha. We had crossed the Nebraska 



plains famous for their buffalo herds in 
past days ; also antelope, coyotes, prairie 
chickens, prairie dogs and Indians; the 
first have long since passed away and 
their place taken by horses, cattle aud 
sheep; the other above mentioned crea- 
tures are fast melting away before the ad- 
vance of white men. We saw small fleets 
of "prairie schooners" with their ox or 
mule teams slowly wending their way 
across these wide, wide plains. We saw 
roads here and there, but wiiere they led 
we could only imagine, for no habitation 
could be seen in any direction, and here 
a clear uninterrupted view is bad in all 
directions for very many miles. 

The traveller, emigrant or otherwise, 
who is overtaken by wind, rain, hail or 
snow storms has no means of shelter, but 
must take them as they come, and it is 
said that they are often sudden and of a 
severity which we in tbeeast can scarcely 
conceive possible. We also saw num- 
erous buttes, mounds, castle and chiniuey 
rocks iii various parts of the prairie. It 
would ujake one wonder what could in- 
duce anyone to venture in these appar- 
ently desolate regions, but Ibeover ciovvd- 
ing of tlie east, the necessity for food, and 
the desire for gain have doubtless lieen 
the real incentives as they must be in the 
peopling of any new country. Thus far 
we liave not seen many people and there 
are many thousands of square milts of un- 
culiivaied lands, Im: as population in- 
creases all this will lie changed 

We arrived at Council Bluffs 7:o5 a. m. 
August 17th, and put up at the Railroad 
Htjtel connected with tlie depot. After a 
preliminary wash up and l)reakfast we 
took a horse car and went up into the 
town, for the town is located some dis- 
tance from the station. The horse made a 
splash with each step he took over the 
ties, for the road between the tracks is not 
j)aved but has deep holes in which the rain 
of the previous night had accumulated, 
and the horse displayed considerable dex- 
terity in avoiding the ties. 

Council Bluffs, so called because of its 
having been the scene oT a number of 
Indian councils, having such a great 
name in the east, figuring on all the rail- 
road maps and time tables as a place of 
some note, attracted our attention, hut we 
were surprised to see a comparatively 
small town, though it claims about 20,- 
000 inhabitants, wi h its wooden houses, 
many not painted, set upon stilts to keep 
tbeiM out of the floods which overflow 
the lower part of this place when it rains. 
The board walks are also elevated aud 
passage ways are made to the houses. We 
saw many iiouses with water all arouud 
and under them ; also signs announcing 
lots for sale which were then covered 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



49 



with water. Its promiueuce depends 
upon its being a railroad point. It is tbe 
terminus of several Iowa railroads ; there 
is also here a large stock yard. 

Getting ott the car where it stopped, it 
turned on a turn table and went back to 
the depot. We took a short walk on the 
plank side walks and awaited the return 
of the car we came in, which took about 
one hour, for there is only one car on this 
line and so far as we know it is the only 
line. A goodly number of private resi- 
dences are located on the bluff, but we 
found the place so generally unattractive, 
the streets very deep with njud and alto- 
gether not worth the trip of two miles, 
the distance from the depot, that we re- 
turned as soon as possible. 

We then desired to go to Omaha to get 
our mail if any, and looked about for the 
ferry to cross the river but found none. 
We were told that the banks of the river 
being so low and of such soft earth that 
no roadway or landing place could 
readily be made, but that trains at stated 
times crossed the bridge for the accom- 
modation of passengers and teams, flat 
cars being provided for the latter. Thus 
we crossed and going to the post office 
found what we were after and then took a 
view of the town which we foundan active 
business place, well built and a great rail- 
road point. It is fifty feet higlier than 
Council Bluffs and nearer liie river. The 
stores of l)oth places were open notwiMi 
standing this was Sunday, luit no business 
was being transacted. A resident said 
that Sunday business was very light and 
that Sunday opening would eventually 
regulate it>elf. 

Council Bluffs is the legal eastern ter- 
minus of the Union Pacitic Railroad, but 
Omaha is the business point. The dejjot 
at the former place is very extensive and 
accommodates all the roads centering here. 
The railroad company owns lOOU acres, 
which is designed for extending the 
facilities and meeting the growing de- 
mands of this place. The depot hotel is 
large, elegant and convenient, and we 
recommend it to visitors to Couijcil 
Bluffs. 

The bridge across the Missouri at this 
place is an iron tru s and is an engineer- 
ing marvel. It is composed of 11 spans, 
250 feet each in length and 50 feet above 
high water mark. The spans rest on 11 
piers of cast iron, 2 columns each, HI feet 
in diameter, and sunken through the mud 
down to bed rock, wf)rkmen bemg on the 
inside under great atmos[)heric pressure 
cleaning out the earth so as lo enable the 
tubes to sink, one of the columns reach- 
ing the rock at 82 feet. Total lengtii of 
the iron structure of the bridge is 2750 
feet. The eastern approach is an embank- 



ment one and a half miles long; the 
western end of the bridge rests on tlie high 
bank. There must have been consider- 
able loss of life in its construction as is 
the case with all large enterprises whether 
in building tunnels or li)ridges. 

We had now completed 1,805 from miles 
San Francisco to Council Bluffs, and from 
our time table we found we had passed 
254 stations along the line including the 
termini, with an aggregate population of 
460,000 inhabitants. Of this amount 389,- 
000 belong to 7 stations (and of this last 
23o,000 belong to San Francisco), leaving 
the amount of 71,000 to be distributed 
among 247 stations many of which have 
nothing to indicate that they are stations 
except a sign with the name, and others — 
well let me quote from Robt. J. Burdette, 
Haivkeye man : 

"As you wander up and down the 
land you observe al tlie stations the 
smaller the town the bigger the name. 
The poorest, most distressed, hungriest- 
looking passengers always get off at the 
smallest, forlornest towns with the big- 
gest names. Now there is a man just got 
off at Canton City. He got on al Liver- 
pool City. He didn't have enough coat 
to sew buttons to. His trousers were 
made of guuny-iiags, with patches ,;f tar- 
paulin and shreds of flannel, and his hat 
wasn't made al all. It was something 
that grows wild souiewliere in the dark. 
And the city is on a par with the man. 
Now there is London City, that we just 
passed. It is a compilation of cabins and 
shanties, with one grocery with a dash- 
board in front, where the natives in the 
evenings hold their mouths open and say 
'Hey' when any one ventures a remark 
relative to the price of hogs. It is the 
wild, ungovernable ambition of every 
little hamlet about the size of a piano-box, 
stodd down in a desolate swamp or tree- 
less flat, to clujose souie high-sounding 
name, and then tack "city" on to it. So 
it is that we have Boston, New York, 
Brooklyn and Chicago. That is all very 
well ; but when you take a trip on the 
Lost Creek narrow gauge, you find 
Metropolis Ciiy, Berlin City, Edinburgh 
City, Vienna City. Not a single plain 
monosyllable town on the line, and not a 
city that can raise one liundred people to 
go "to the circus. Still such is the way of 
man. I do not feel harshly toward 
these cities " This is a fair descrip- 
tion of many places we have seen. Time 
will make some places important which 
are now but barely noted on the railway 
mai>s, develop new ones, and see others 
blotted out. 

August 18th we took the Chicago & 
North-Westeru Railroad, crossed the 
State of Iowa, which is a vast prairie, 



50 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



very fertile and with no special features. 
The soil is a black loam quite two feet 
deep, in some places more, and lilie much 
of the country in the Mississippi Valley, 
requires no manuring as it is of almost 
inexhaustible richness. We passed 
through several important places, particu- 
larly Cedar Rapids but as it was night 
and we were comfortably sleeping, we 
knew nothing of what was transpiring. 
We crossed the Mississippi River on a 
flue iron bridge at Clinton and continued 
due east across Illinois to Chicago, which 
wereachtdat 7 a. m. August 19th and 
490 miles from Council Bluffs. 

A few days spent in this great city in 
visiting Lincoln Park, taking views of 
Lake Michigan at various points, looking 
into the large dry goods liouses and pub- 
lic buildings, all worthy the reputation 
which this has. This city is greater since 
the destructive firtsomeyeaisago. Nearly 
all evidence of it has been blotted out an'd 
like the t)hoenix rising from the asbes 
more glorious than ever, there have been 
rows of tall, fine looking and capacious 
buildings in the places of, those destroyed. 
The weather became intensely hot and 
we concluded not to run the risk of sun- 
stroke by pressing too much sight seeing 
into a short space of time, and we there- 
Core left njLich unseen, for this city is very 
disagreeable in hot weather, located as it 
is on low ground which is boggy ; the hot 
moisture ri.-^es and is very opi)ressive. 
We however determined to visit the 
famous stock yards, and the slaughter 
and packing houses of the famous pork 
kiug Armour, who is sometimes sarcas- 
tically called the "Kiug of the Hog.s," or 
the "King Hog." 

By cable car we were taken about two 
miles south vvcsl of the city and saw the 
immense droves of cattle and pigs in the 
yards. The slauiihter house is a large 
brick building right in tlie midst of tlie 
yards. The slaughtering of pigs is done 
in the second story and i.s supj>lied with 
the most approved macliiueiy for this 
wliolesale taking of life and prei)aring of 
the meat, which, in the hands of work- 
men, each having liis particular part to 
perform, acquire a dexterity which is as- 
tonishing. The pigs are raised upon an 
elevator to the level of tlie slaugliteriug 
room and each in turn is caught by tlie 
leg l)y a machine and hoisted into the air. 
A man with a long knife dexterously 
j)lun<res it into the hog's throat and be- 
fore he ceases his shrieks he is plunged 
into a trough of scalding water. Wliile 
passing through it revolving wheel 
brushes are applied to the body and the 
hair is rapidly removed. Then it is hung 
up and quickly disembowelled. Passing 
on to others the head is cut off uud the 



body split in two. It is then washed otf 
and starts on a railway track suspended 
from the ceiling to a refrigerating room. 
So rapidly is all this done that in the 
time it would take to read this account a 
pig has passed from his grunting selfish 
life to the cooiing room and probably all 
cut up ready for packing, or shipment in 
the fresh state, and Armour's refrigerator 
cars are to be seen in all parts of the coun- 
try used in the transportation of fresh 
dressed meats. 

That this slaughter is almost beyond 
comprehension is best appreciated when 
it, is said that the enormous number of 
between 5,000 and 6,000 are killed in a 
working day or nearly ten every minute. 
Cattle are driven into stalls from which 
they cannot turn, they are then shot ami 
with a rapidity almost equal to that just 
described they pass from life through all 
the processes necessary to tit them for the 
market. We at first entered this esLab- 
iishnient with some reluctance, feeling 
that slaughter houses are not the places 
which are regarded proper for ladies to 
visit, but our minds were soon disabused 
on this point, for we saw parties of ladies 
and gentlemen coming in carriages, or as 
we did, to see this place, which is proba- 
l)ly not exceeded by any in Cincinnati or 
Kansas City, tlie other great centres of 
the slaughtering and packing trade. 

Chicago is still growing in extent and 
wealth. It is tjje great railroad centre of 
the north and west ; its suburbs are dec- 
oratedjwith magnificent private residences 
and ditches running here aud there to 
drain the land. The Cliicago river divides 
the city ; it is a narrow, deep and sluggish 
stream crossed by numerous draw bridges 
aud has on each side large factories and 
lumber yards which are reached by 
steam and sailing vessels of considerable 
size. 

That this place was selected for a town 
is difficult to understand. It probably 
was the result of an accidental circum- 
stance. Fort Dearborn was built at the 
mouth of the Chicago River to control 
the Indians and was proltably the nucleus 
of a trading post many years ago, aud 
around this centred what has become one 
of the most important cities in the United 
Slates. Chicago means in Indian 
"skunk," probably because the locality 
was a low, marshy, miasmatic, "stink- 
ing" place, and more applicable to the 
river now than when the fort was built. 
The travel in the city as well as sanitary 
considerations I have no doubt will ulti- 
mately rec^uire it to be filled up, and the 
shipping interests transferred to the lake 
front. 

I had almost forgotten to mention the 
Corn and Wheat Exchange which to one 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



51 



who has not been present during hours 
in a Stock Exchange will be vtry inter- 
esting. From tliis place as a great grain 
centre the pulse of the market is some- 
times felt ail over tlie world. In a large 
room in the Exchange are two circles 
about 15 feet in diameter each surrounded 
by a narrow elevated platform reached 
by a fesv steps on the outside of the circle 
and a similar number on the inside, thus 
forming what ;.re known as the "corn 
and wheat pits." Into these the brokers 
gather in large numbers, and if there is 
any excitement either from [lauicor boom, 
then to tlie uninitiated there arises a jar- 
gon of sounds, so vociferous and unintel- 
ligible, acconii)auied with evidences of the 
greatest excitement, that tlie most turbu- 
lent mob or the wildest demonstration in 
an insane asylum would be nnldness 
itself in comparison. After hours there 
are often gatlierings in the streets in the 
immediate vicinity and the same demon- 
strations and transactions are made and 
this too regardless of the state of the 
weather. These gatherings are probably 
made up of irregular dealers and brokers 
not connected with the exchange. 

Having seen as much of the most im- 
portant objects as we could considering 
the heat, we [jrepared to return and start- 
ed for the Union Depot of whicii all Chi- 
cagoans are very proud and flatter them- 
selves into the belief that it is the finest 
in the country. We t<jok a train on the 
Pittsburg, Ft. Wayne and Chicago Rail- 
road to Pittsburg, and from there by 
Pennsylvania Central to Bainbridge, 
where we settled down to rest. 

On September 1st, 1 entered my place 
of business in Puila<Jelphia ai'id like 
Phileas Fogg after his journey around 
the world in eighty days was prepared to 
say, "Here I am, gentleman," and ready 
again for business ; having travelled by 
rail and stage nearly 10,000 miles and 
without the slightest ac-cident, though we 
had been in places of considerable dan- 
ger. We had been on narrow guage rail- 
ways, on correspondingly narrow ledges 
of rock high up on the almost perpen- 
dicular mountaiii side, where a broken 
rail or other accident meant almost cer- 
tain death (and njost of the railroads 
among the mountains of Colorado are 
narrow gauge), aud I will repeat a story 
I read in an eastern paper since our re- 
turn which is said to have transpired on 
one of the roads we went over and serves 
as an excellent illustration. 

"Leaving Salida, we have to use two 
large mogul engines"— they must have 
been little moguls for this is a narrow 
gauge roi'd— "to take us over Marshall 
Pass, a grade 26 miles long, and 217 feet to 
the mile"— the grade on the Alleghenies 



from Altoona to Cresson does not exceed 
90 feet to the mile if we remember 
aright — "winding around twenty-six de- 
gree curves. One side you look down 
3,000 feet, while by looking up on the 
other side of the train you can see rocks 
hanging over you more than a mile high, 
one of the grandest sights man ever saw, 
and worth the time and expense of any 
man. Forty-four miles is counted a day's 
worl\ on this division for engineers, and 
their montlily earnings amount to from 
$160 to !s)225, and the risks they run and 
ability required are worth all the money 
they get. 

"It is here our old friend 'Curley' Whit- 
nev bad his runaway. Curley was com- 
ing down this grade when his brakes got 
out of order and his train got the start of 
him. He was running a second section, 
and seeing no hopes of avoiding collision 
by dashing into Ibe train ahead, lie and 
his fireman, after doing all they could to 
check the speed of their train, jumped off 
and let it go. Ahead of them on the first 
section w as one of those ever wide awake, 
careful men who always looks to both 
ends of his train, and he was looking back 
when Curley and liis fireman jumped oft'. 
Realizing his danger at once he eased up 
on nis brakes and got the speed of the 
runaway train. He then caught them 
aud heid boih trains until he brought 
them to a full stop." 

An accident similar to this is liable at 
any time, aud it can be readily imagined 
how dangerous it would be even though 
there might be no chance of collision with 
another train. We have been in deep 
canons with overhanging rocks, and from 
the loose ones at the bottom we knew 
they must have come from above. We 
have been on wagon roads only wide 
enough for the vehicle, on the edges of 
steep deelivities ; proximity to elevations 
from which huge boulders sometimes fall, 
(one weighing many tons fell a short dis- 
tance back of the hotel in the Yosemite 
Valley while we were there, with a noise 
like thunder and a trembling of the 
ground.) We got through safely and are 
thankful. 

This narration is made without any 
pretension to its lieing a literary effort, 
and is but a plain account of facts of 
wliere we went, and how, what we 
saw, and our impressions. Doubtless 
there are some errors in our statements 
and where they occur it is not the result 
of intention either to lessen, magnify or 
deceive in the slightest degree. We ma^' 
have in some cases been incorrectly in- 
formed, for we did not ourselves measure 
the height of mountains and water-falls, 
the depth of canons, count people, etc. 
Many statements will doubtless appear 



52 



A SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 



incredible, but we have stated iiotliing 
wliicb we believe would Dot beconflrrued 
by anyone goiug over the same ground, 
unless be should say we had not told half 
the truth. We reel that an adequate de- 
scription is impossible to fully impress a 
reader or hearer with the greatness, the 
beauty, the sublimity, the wildness, the 
desolation which we have seen and 
passed through. 

We were impressed with the greatness 
and vastuess of this country and felt 
proud that we could call it ours, though 
as yet we have seen little of it. Why 
cross the ocean before viewing those 
ihings in our own country wliich have 
scarcely a parallel abroad? Those who 
have means and time should not fail to 
make this trip, which will be for them a 
perpetual feast of pleasant recollections, 
provided it is concluded without accident 
or other serious episode, any of which are 
possible anywhere ; but let us here ad- 
vise (while we do so without vanity) 
those who contemplate travel here or 
elsewhere that it is time well spent to pro- 
cure all the available means of informa- 



tion about the places to be visited, and 
objects to be seen by books of travel, 
guide books, etc., to peruse them carefully 
before starting and if necessary make 
memorada, because much is passed over 
by the stranger in strange places with- 
out them. What is common and uninter- 
esting to the resident may have particu- 
lar attractions to the visitor. Indeed res- 
idents often do not see the attractions of 
their own towns or vicinity until some 
non-resident relative or friend appears, 
and they then act as guide. 

This account was primarily written for 
ourselves as a record of our trip, and has 
given us many hours of pleasure in elab- 
orating the details not contained in our 
diary, which was rather an extended 
memorandum from day to day, of our 
doings, and noted every evening when 
possible. The courteous editor of the 
Clarion solicited it for the benefit of his 
subscribers among wnom we number 
many friends. Our own purpose has been 
accomplished and if we have contributed 
anything to their pleasure we are pleased 
that we gave them the record of our 



'SUMMER TRIP ACROSS THE C0NTINI:NT." 



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